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Crossover steering on steering arm vs knuckle

MetalMulishaMarcus

MetalMulishaMarcus

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This kind of goes with my other post

My other post - https://ck5.com/forums/threads/dana-60-kingpin-springs-or-bushings.337204/#post-3986649

I'm gonna be redoing my crossover steering on my Dana 60 and I currently have a steering block under my steering arm (I have an 8 inch lift and the axle came that way when I bought it).

I've seen many different types of crossover steering systems but what I'm looking for is where you mounted you're drag link.

What are the pros and cons of mounting youre drag link on a steering arm vs mounting it on the knuckle?

And is the steering block needed or is that something that can be eliminated?

Will any of this change the steering geometry and feel? Will it get tighter?

Heres some pictures of what I mean..
P.s. these are all picture I found on google.

J131667.jpeg.jpg

2017-09-07-11.10.29-e1504823671246-300x400.jpg

D60crossoveraxle.JPG.jpg

IMG_0500.jpg

images.jpeg.jpg
 
For your needs, the traditional style arm that replaces the upper king pin cap would work great. In leaf sprung trucks, the spring pack usually occupies the space needed to stack the draglink above the tierod. Plus, with an 8 inch lift, the draglink would incur a fairly significant angle in relation to the ground when "stacked" at the tierod, increasing bump steer.
 
The single shear heims joints are a pretty significant problem with running the steering in your first picture, they tend to oval holes and wreck the knuckle. It's a lower mounting point too, which puts more angle on the draglink.

Also keep in mind that you probably have a leaf spring directly in the way of mounting the steering that way.
 
Justin V said:
For your needs, the traditional style arm that replaces the upper king pin cap would work great. In leaf sprung trucks, the spring pack usually occupies the space needed to stack the draglink above the tierod. Plus, with an 8 inch lift, the draglink would incur a fairly significant angle in relation to the ground when "stacked" at the tierod, increasing bump steer.
Click to expand...

I actually wanna drop the truck and bring it to to a 6 inch lift.
 
1977k5 said:
The single shear heims joints are a pretty significant problem with running the steering in your first picture, they tend to oval holes and wreck the knuckle. It's a lower mounting point too, which puts more angle on the draglink.

Also keep in mind that you probably have a leaf spring directly in the way of mounting the steering that way.
Click to expand...

Didnt know heims were bad. I see a lot of people using heims and I see a lot of kits with heims as an upgrade to steering.
 
Heims aren't bad. Single shear is referring to the mounting style.

Double shear is the top one, single shear is bottom.

shear.png
 
bigjimmy82 said:
I have used these, they work great. I used them to change my 10-bolt knuckle to match the flat top 44 knuckle. One was tapered from bottom, and one from the top. If the truck spends anytime on the street TRE's are the way to go, you don't see any OEM's building steering with Heim's, and it will have slop in it much quicker.
Click to expand...
I have had heims on my steering for about 4 years now without a single issue along with 2 trips to Moab. Granted it's only about 9k miles.
 
I also want to ask a question and for opinions then argue with everyone posting...

If God sees everything then why...
 
K85 Octane said:
I also want to ask a question and for opinions then argue with everyone posting...

If God sees everything then why...
Click to expand...

Lol hopefully you dont think I asked a question then argued with everyone. It wasnt my intention..but if it came out that way, I'm apologize.
 
You can use heim joints or rod ends, just your flavor.
What you are stuck with is using the king pin steering arm above the knuckle. At least it's a D60, that's easier than a D44.
The mall crawler and show trucks have gotten away with the "Z link" before but they never last when forces are higher than a parking lot.
The "Y link" is also something people have tried. They work OK in Jeeps but the angles are different for leaf spring trucks.

If you don't want the knuckle steering arm, go link suspension and then you can do any of them :D
 
K85 Octane said:
You can use heim joints or rod ends, just your flavor.
What you are stuck with is using the king pin steering arm above the knuckle. At least it's a D60, that's easier than a D44.
The mall crawler and show trucks have gotten away with the "Z link" before but they never last when forces are higher than a parking lot.
The "Y link" is also something people have tried. They work OK in Jeeps but the angles are different for leaf spring trucks.

If you don't want the knuckle steering arm, go link suspension and then you can do any of them :D
Click to expand...

I'm actually gonna end up going with fortify offroads radius arm kit up front, I've been talking to @sreidmx. I'm trying to think ahead which part of the reason why I posted this. If I can change my steering now, its one less thing I have to do later.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
I'm actually gonna end up going with fortify offroads radius arm kit up front, I've been talking to @sreidmx. I'm trying to think ahead which part of the reason why I posted this. If I can change my steering now, its one less thing I have to do later.
Click to expand...
Talk with Steve, if they have figured the radius arms out they have the steering to support it.
 
The heims work fine in most scenarios, the shear loads in this type of system are not going to shear a 3/4 bolt. The only issue we see is if you drill the hole in the arm and it is not straight therefore affecting the ability for the bolt to be torqued. When that bolt comes loose then it’s an issue but that goes for any suspension or steering system.. it doesn’t matter if it’s a tie rod or not. They both with wreck the hole.. so check your stuff more when it’s new to be sure everything is staying tight.
We think a single shear trackbar is not ideal, yet there is many guys running it with zero issues and this steering is no different, I bet ruff stuff or Barnes would stop selling those style kits if there was a huge problem with them.

The only time we think heims are an issue is in muddy or wet conditions. There is a few seal options that FK makes which can keep that a non issue. The jury is out on that one.
 
sreidmx said:
The heims work fine in most scenarios, the shear loads in this type of system are not going to shear a 3/4 bolt. The only issue we see is if you drill the hole in the arm and it is not straight therefore affecting the ability for the bolt to be torqued. When that bolt comes loose then it’s an issue but that goes for any suspension or steering system.. it doesn’t matter if it’s a tie rod or not. They both with wreck the hole.. so check your stuff more when it’s new to be sure everything is staying tight.
We think a single shear trackbar is not ideal, yet there is many guys running it with zero issues and this steering is no different, I bet ruff stuff or Barnes would stop selling those style kits if there was a huge problem with them.

The only time we think heims are an issue is in muddy or wet conditions. There is a few seal options that FK makes which can keep that a non issue. The jury is out on that one.
Click to expand...

With you're kits, how is the steering mounted single or double shear?
 
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