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Crossover steering, tight left turns wide right turns

RockBottomRacing

1/2 ton status
Joined
Oct 10, 2011
Posts
128
Reaction score
50
Location
Simi Valley, CA
Hey guys!

Just picked up a 1991 GMC K5 Jimmy from a member (can't recall his username). Shes got lots of work done to her and just needs some TLC and fine tuning before shes ready for the trail. One thing I'm trying to tackle is my steering.

The PO installed a Ruff Stuff Specialties Crossover drag link and a Superlift drop pitman arm. He installed the Dana 44 flat top knuckle, and kept the stock GM tie rod bar with GM K30 tie rod ends. He pulled a selector shaft from a 2 wheel drive steering box and did that instead of installing a whole new box. This thing turns left on a freaking dime! However, my right turns are super wide. I've never really had an alignment issue this bad except for my Duramax, so I wanted to get some incite here. I did use the search function but everything I found was people recommending to swap to crossover, not anyone confronting this particular issue AFTER crossover. Of course, i'm probably blind lol.

Before I go adjusting stuff and messing my steering up even more, has anyone ever encountered this issue before?

Any insight is much appreciated!
 
Disconnect the drag link. Center the steering box by counting turns of the steering wheel from lock to lock, divide by two. Once the steering box is centered adjust the drag link so it slips into the pitman arm again. At this point you can fine tune the drag link end adjustment to get the steering wheel 100% straight when the truck is going straight.
 
shorten up your drag link
Doesn't it need to be longer to turn more right?

Do you have pictures of the drag link and drag link ends? There are some differences in what length drag link you need for different axles so it could be the on you have is short. If you can't dial out the DLEs enough to have the wheels straight ahead when the box is straight (with safe thread engagement) the DL has to be lengthened or replaced.
 
Disconnect the drag link. Center the steering box by counting turns of the steering wheel from lock to lock, divide by two. Once the steering box is centered adjust the drag link so it slips into the pitman arm again. At this point you can fine tune the drag link end adjustment to get the steering wheel 100% straight when the truck is going straight.
x2 this will be the first step to finding any problems . and just cause the steering wheel is center dosnt mean it wasn't installed on the splined shaft off center .

once this is done report back to us for more help or a pat on the back .

and post up a pic or 2 and we can possibly id the old owner and link you to his build thread if he had one so you know more history .
 
Long for more right


Check once the steering wheel is centered that the arm on the box correct
 
Thanks for the replies guys! i only have a minute, ill read through tonight, and I'll take pics tonight showing my setup and post more questions I'm sure!
 
woo straight draglink AND stock engine crossmember?

They don't hit?

Also, have you disconnected the draglink and centered the box yet? Not the wheel, the box. Gotta count those steering wheel rotations and find center. Then go from there.
 
Bent shackles, front blocks and possibly broken spring center pin means there are things to deal with other than centering the steering.

The nice thing about a straight draglink is that you can just loosen the jam nuts and spin it to set the alignment. The bad things are that you don't have much angle left in the DLEs for droop and when the drag link hits the crossmember on compression bad stuff happens.

The next thing on steering is easy peasey:
  • Center the steering box by counting turns between full left and full right
  • Visually inspect to confirm the pitman arm is straight back (parallel to the frame rail). If not, take pics and get back with us (I've heard of non-GM sector shafts that have the splines cut at different angles).
  • If so, loosen the jam nuts and turn the drag link until the wheels are pointed straight ahead. Make sure you have enough thread engagement!. You said it was a stock drag link, so it should have LH and RH threaded ends.
 
Thanks for the advice guys! The truck has stock length springs and when I cycle the suspension the drag link comes real close to my crossmember but doesn't touch. I have the steering disconnected right now, I'm working on swapping my axle out since the front gears didn't match. I'm taking it out next weekend for a camping/wheeling trip so i wanna make sure I'm ready to play. :D

I do have the Ford shock towers with extended shocks (Rancho 5000's) btw, since I saw mention of stock shocks :)

Just started a new job last week and right now I'm on 6 days a week and 9-12 hour days so I don't have a ton of time to work with lol but I'll try to come around more!
 
All of the centering your steering box advise is on point as being the best place to start. It would suck to do a ton of checking and adjusting only to find out the sector shaft is off slightly. I have found that some shafts and pitman arms can be mounted off also. Without truly knowing where the parts came from this is my 2 cents.
Start here and than post up pics for the brotherhood to help. Also, answer this question as it may be relevant after completing the task of centering the box.

Does the truck pull to the right or left when you let go of the steering wheel below 5 mph? As in, do you seem to steer left to go straight while in parking lots? On the highway is a false answer since a lot of other factors come into play at 60 mph.

Remove the pitman arm from the steering box. Mark the shaft at the double spline location. Count the lock to lock on the steering wheel and find that center as discussed above. Reinstall the pitman arm loosely to verify it is parallel to the frame. If it is, than go ahead and tighten the nut to install completely.

Start the engine and let go of the steering wheel. What does the pitman arm do?

Get back to us after that.
 
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