OK, here's some info that I've gathered in the process of installing cruise on my truck. Obviously, this is limited experience, so if you have more info to add, have at it. Prefer this doesn't become a thread where people ask questions. Start another thread, and I'll link to it if it gets to a point where it has value to others and I'm aware of it. I don't have a problem with PM's, but again, information in a public forum has more value.
First, the posts that already exist I was part of:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217277&highlight=cruise
Cruise control quick, incomplete troubleshooting
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212025&highlight=cruise
info about manual trans
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214962&highlight=cruise
ideas on how to snake the wiring
Now for the info. I was/am focused solely on the (probably) '83-91 C/K/R/V cruise setups. General description, these use a vacuum servo mounted on the intake (for trucks), and a cruise module mounted above the gas pedal. Various smaller but important components are the brake (and clutch if manual) switches, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), and cruise specific turn signal stalk.
Best donor years for remote mount cruise seems to be approximately 1988-1995 or so. Quick identification is simple...if the turn signal/cruise stalk looks like yours, it is the same.
Variations? Lets talk variables. Some I've seen include how the servo is mounted to the vehicle. Some use mounts on the intake, some fenders, etc. Most common non-intake mounted style is a flat, straight bracket with two bolt holes on the bottom, which wraps up in front of the servo, and is used to clip the cable to. This style is most conducive to a "clean" engine, as it lets you remote mount the servo, and all that runs to the engine is a vacuum line and cruise cable.
The servo itself is a variable. From what I've seen, carbed and TBI C/K/R/V truck applications use a "non-adjustable" servo, which uses a threaded rod as linkage between the carb/tbi and the servo. The threaded rod is threaded in or out to adjust the reach of the linkage. The servo itself has one attachment point for the rod. I've seen ones that use a beaded chain, but only in pictures. Most non-C/K/R/V (Astros, S10's, cars) that are injected use the remote servo setup, which has a number of holes in the servo cable mounting surface, allowing adjustment to be made by clipping the cable into a different hole. The clip is the same clip as what holds the throttle cable on most GM carbs/TBI setups. I don't see that any of the servos are wired differently.
Some later setups have a stepper motor that uses no vacuum instead of the vacuum servo setup, instead it's just a small black plastic box. No idea about the distance from throttle clip to throttle bracket clip point. Also no idea on what kind of signal these look for from the module, I didn't look at any close enough to see. I would have to assume that the control module itself is different. I notice in the 1991 R/V/P manual, the P used a stepper motor.
The cable lengths vary, as does the "travel" of the cable. The amount of travel you get is mainly limited by where it clips into the cable bracket on the engine side. By pulling the cable as far through the sheathing on the servo side as possible, you can get a repeatable measurement from the tip of the mounting "plate" (what clips to the throttle) to the point where the cable clips into the cable bracket. That distance is NOT the same with all GM setups. From my experience you may see an 1" difference, which is enough to eliminate any chance of adjusting "slop" out of the setup. You won't get enough pull to maintain higher vehicle speeds with too much slop.
There are at least three different cable attachment methods to the throttle side bracket. Some car applications are molded with the accelerator cable, and are worthless to us. Some cables use a double "V" (one V facing up on the top of the connector, V facing down on the other side), while some use a square with a bump as a key. These are there to keep mechanics from putting the wrong cable in the wrong slot. The double V design WILL clip in the square/bump bracket, but not vise versa AFAIK.
I can't speak to throttle brackets much, as my TPI setup is going to be different. It's throttle bracket already has a slot for a cruise cable and a TV cable. Again as I understand it, all C/K/R/V trucks use a rod instead of cable. I would suspect that PERHAPS S10's with the 4.3L might be bracket donors, all seemed to use remote servos.
The turn/signal cruise stalks changed a BUNCH between years and vehicles. First obvious difference is length. The stalk is different length based on the diameter of the steering wheel. I've seen at least two different lengths. On top of that, the shape of the stalk can vary, as can the finish, chrome or black, and finally, the printing. The cruise stalk from my very limited testing seems prone to failure as one of the above links talks about. I did break one open that didn't work, and the 4 tiny wires are soldered directly to a connector inside the stalk, with no support. As the stalk moves (turn signal), wiper delay is activated, etc., those wires are worked at that connection, and break. The "inner" plastic piece (the one with the wiper wash tab on it) is actually pressed onto the (straight) splined steel stalk, so I guess it's theoretically possible to repair one of these by pulling it apart, however it's not something I was able to do with pliers, and looks like you'd mar the plastic portion no matter how careful you tried to be.
The major change IMO with the cruise stalks was likely due to GM's realization of the failure prone nature of the design. Instead of re-doing the inner workings of the stalk (which would have been very simple) GM added a connector right where the stalk goes into the column. This change appears in my 1991 R/V manual, so I suspect that it started right around there. This is not an across the board change, I've seen similar years with the one piece cable. The connector has a stud on it, which is pressed into a hole drilled inside the column, to keep the wires in place. The clip is easily disconnected using a thumbnail. You don't want to break the locking portion, as they are not a tight fit, and will not stay connected well without it. In my experience, this style stalk is easily identified, the 4 tiny, brightly colored wires are typically visible at the base of the stalk.
To remove the stalk, you want the delay wipers off, and you pull straight out. Be careful, as it takes some effort, and when it does come out, you may stress the wires inside the stalk. Don't let your hand fly backwards when it lets go of the column.
I have no idea where the cruise module is mounted in any other vehicle. C/K/R/V is mounted above the gas pedal, on a bracket, which sits over top of the "convenience" center, which has your horn relay, key buzzer, etc. They seem to be identical all years, most of my components are from a mid-80's truck, the wiring colors are almost identical to the '91 wiring, and are identical in function when compared to the connector pinouts.
There are various brake/clutch switches, all do the same thing: cut voltage to the cruise module when either the clutch or brake pedal is depressed. Some switches are combination, either vacuum/cruise, or vacuum/cruise/brake, and some are simply electrical, or vacuum. Stock setups appear to always use a brake switch coupled with the vacuum switch. Minor digression, I am unsure why the vacuum line is there, without voltage, the servo will NOT hold a vacuum. Therefore, other than failing for a visible reason, you can't test the servo without power going to it. You cannot press the servo in manually and cap the ports and have it stay in. You cannot apply vacuum, as the valves operate ONLY with voltage applied to them.
The wiring harness for these setups is entirely standalone from what I've seen. Everything you need unplugs, unbolts, or unclips from the vehicle, no cutting required. Exceptions noted much further down. The brake pedal bracket was already drilled in my truck to accept the cruise module, probably all are. That would be a pain to do with it in the truck! Wherever my setup came from (my dad grabbed the wiring from the wrecking yard one day, he's not here to ask the donor) the wiring was so long that I was able to make a small bracket, and simply mounted my cruise servo to the unused drivers side battery tray. Well out of the way over there.
Be careful when selecting a donor. Later cars (maybe very late trucks) used a new design connector under the column, this setup has no blade connector for the stalk wiring, and the turn signal switch connector is all bundled together in a new shape. Worthless.
VSS. If your 1983-1991 truck has EFI or cruise, you have a VSS buffer, which is hanging off the back of your speedometer. (except DRAC for '90-91) VSS prior to EFI was used solely for cruise control, and I have yet to see an '83-86 speedometer that will not accept VSS. The bolt hole/IR eye slot is already there. So if you want to run a later cruise setup, '83-86 truck, you should have no problem, earlier, run the earlier cluster, or at least the earlier speedometer. VSS buffers were used in every US GM car from 1981-1990 that was carbed, since they had ECM's. These are the same buffers used in the trucks from 1983-1989. The buffers can vary, all have three wires in a ribbon cable that run to the speedometer on one end, the printed circuit board on the other end that runs to the ECM or Cruise module may or may not be setup for dual use. I've seen some that are only setup for ECM or cruise output, I've seen some with connectors for both. VSS needs ignition 12V, a chassis ground, and finally the output wire which feeds whatever you are trying to run with the VSS signal.
DRAC is what is used 1990-1991. This takes the VSS signal from the transmission/t-case and interprets it to whatever things need. Speedometer drive, ECM, cruise, and ABS. Speedometer, cruise and ECM all get 2000 pulses per mile as far as I can tell, while the ABS is something like 128,000 pulses per mile. The DRAC is a white plastic box, used in the 1990-91 R/V trucks, as well as Astros for unknown years. I believe the '88+ C/K trucks also use these, but Astros are just more common as a donor. DRAC needs 12V ignition, ground, 2 VSS wires from the VSS, and then whatever outputs are necessary. Search my username, "DRAC" as post title, you'll find my DRAC thread.
I won't get into servo/cable installation, that is too application specific, and I know too little about the carbed options. Installing the cruise stalk/wiring is a different story.
For any of your donor vehicles, and all the C/K/R/V I have dealt with, you will need (to make your life easier) a 13MM socket, a 15MM socket deep well preferred, a steering wheel puller, a 13/16(?) socket, lock plate compressor, screwdrivers, and that should do it. Small socket set is handy if you don't want to tear up the donor vehicle. Knife or razorblade. Flashlight also handy to peer into the column cavity at the wiring.
*some later S10's I ran into have an additional plate added to the column apparently to defeat column smashing thieves. This uses a torx bit of what looks like size T15-25 or so.
First step, locate donor. I believe some Cadillacs these years will have air bags, I'd avoid these, they looked like a pain.
Pull cover off of the area on the column right behind the cruise stalk. This is easy on the later vehicles, on my column I can't remove that piece, even though it IS a seperate piece. Pull the cruise wire connector free from the column where it's clipped, then disconnect it. You can pull the stalk free here, make sure again not to pull too far, and guide the connector out of the column.
Pull horn cap off, remove steering wheel lock nut retaining clip. Remove steering wheel nut with 13/16(?) socket. Use steering wheel puller to get the wheel out of the way. Should be a black plastic protector here, with three or so slots along the outer edge. Using a flat blade in those slots, pry outward and up, the piece will come unclipped. (just plastic teeth) Remove. Use the lock plate compressor to get to the snap ring, use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove it. Remove the lock plate compressor, lock plate, ring, and the spring on the column. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the connector link for the turn signal stalk to switch, remove all three screws holding the turn signal switch to the column. You will need to move the switch into the respective turn position to get two of the screws out.
Remove any trim under the column. Find the turn signal switch connector, as well as the 4 wire cruise control switch connector. Disconnect both, remove turn signal switch connector from the bracket on the column. Using the 13MM socket, remove the 4 bolts holding the column retaining plate to the column. Remove the two 15MM nuts holding the plate to the dash. Column will now drop down. On the passenger side of the column, notice the wiring disappearing into a black plastic sleeve. Pry the sleeve over the two 13MM bolt bosses, and remove it from the wires. (use this, or your wires could become frayed later) Now you can pull the turn signal switch far enough out of the column to rotate it.
Peering down the column, you should be able to see where the wiring passes through a slot. You'll need to work the wiring up through the slot. You have an option here, which is what I did: ALL of the "two piece" stalk wiring setups I saw, integrate the column portion of the wiring with the turn signal wiring, and then at the base of the column it splits off. I cut all the wires off of the turn signal switch, so it fell off. Much easier to get just the cable and the cruise connector up that way. Don't yank, use the flashlight to guide the connector up with a screwdriver. Once you get that out, you can work on seperating the 4 cruise wires from the turn signal cable wires. Be very careful here, use your knife or razorblade to start the wires seperating, and watch them. The sheathing is pretty thin, and will allow the wire to rip right through it. I had this happen.
When you get home, if one of the wires seperated from the insualtion: the 4 wires will unclip from the stalk end connector, unclip the problem wire, get that wire seperated from the other three as far as necessary (using a razorblade, score the insulation so it doesn't keep pulling the wire through the insulation instead of seperating from the other three intact) and shrink wrap whatever portion of that wire is exposed. I used larger shrink wrap over sections of all 4 to bundle them back together. Clip wires back into connector, done.
I doubt you can use the donor vehicle combo turn signal switch/cruise wiring, as the columns are shorter it appears.
Anyways, installation is the reverse. Actually pretty simple when you've disassembled one column, and snaking the wire down through the column is easier than up.
I think that covers the taking apart/reassembly for the most part. Basically anyways. If I missed something, let me know, I'll clarify.
I may at some point have the time/inclination to get quality photos up of the troubleshooting and wiring diagrams from my 1991 manual, when I do, I will post up the links to those photos.
First, the posts that already exist I was part of:
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=217277&highlight=cruise
Cruise control quick, incomplete troubleshooting
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=212025&highlight=cruise
info about manual trans
http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=214962&highlight=cruise
ideas on how to snake the wiring
Now for the info. I was/am focused solely on the (probably) '83-91 C/K/R/V cruise setups. General description, these use a vacuum servo mounted on the intake (for trucks), and a cruise module mounted above the gas pedal. Various smaller but important components are the brake (and clutch if manual) switches, Vehicle Speed Sensor (VSS), and cruise specific turn signal stalk.
Best donor years for remote mount cruise seems to be approximately 1988-1995 or so. Quick identification is simple...if the turn signal/cruise stalk looks like yours, it is the same.
Variations? Lets talk variables. Some I've seen include how the servo is mounted to the vehicle. Some use mounts on the intake, some fenders, etc. Most common non-intake mounted style is a flat, straight bracket with two bolt holes on the bottom, which wraps up in front of the servo, and is used to clip the cable to. This style is most conducive to a "clean" engine, as it lets you remote mount the servo, and all that runs to the engine is a vacuum line and cruise cable.
The servo itself is a variable. From what I've seen, carbed and TBI C/K/R/V truck applications use a "non-adjustable" servo, which uses a threaded rod as linkage between the carb/tbi and the servo. The threaded rod is threaded in or out to adjust the reach of the linkage. The servo itself has one attachment point for the rod. I've seen ones that use a beaded chain, but only in pictures. Most non-C/K/R/V (Astros, S10's, cars) that are injected use the remote servo setup, which has a number of holes in the servo cable mounting surface, allowing adjustment to be made by clipping the cable into a different hole. The clip is the same clip as what holds the throttle cable on most GM carbs/TBI setups. I don't see that any of the servos are wired differently.
Some later setups have a stepper motor that uses no vacuum instead of the vacuum servo setup, instead it's just a small black plastic box. No idea about the distance from throttle clip to throttle bracket clip point. Also no idea on what kind of signal these look for from the module, I didn't look at any close enough to see. I would have to assume that the control module itself is different. I notice in the 1991 R/V/P manual, the P used a stepper motor.
The cable lengths vary, as does the "travel" of the cable. The amount of travel you get is mainly limited by where it clips into the cable bracket on the engine side. By pulling the cable as far through the sheathing on the servo side as possible, you can get a repeatable measurement from the tip of the mounting "plate" (what clips to the throttle) to the point where the cable clips into the cable bracket. That distance is NOT the same with all GM setups. From my experience you may see an 1" difference, which is enough to eliminate any chance of adjusting "slop" out of the setup. You won't get enough pull to maintain higher vehicle speeds with too much slop.
There are at least three different cable attachment methods to the throttle side bracket. Some car applications are molded with the accelerator cable, and are worthless to us. Some cables use a double "V" (one V facing up on the top of the connector, V facing down on the other side), while some use a square with a bump as a key. These are there to keep mechanics from putting the wrong cable in the wrong slot. The double V design WILL clip in the square/bump bracket, but not vise versa AFAIK.
I can't speak to throttle brackets much, as my TPI setup is going to be different. It's throttle bracket already has a slot for a cruise cable and a TV cable. Again as I understand it, all C/K/R/V trucks use a rod instead of cable. I would suspect that PERHAPS S10's with the 4.3L might be bracket donors, all seemed to use remote servos.
The turn/signal cruise stalks changed a BUNCH between years and vehicles. First obvious difference is length. The stalk is different length based on the diameter of the steering wheel. I've seen at least two different lengths. On top of that, the shape of the stalk can vary, as can the finish, chrome or black, and finally, the printing. The cruise stalk from my very limited testing seems prone to failure as one of the above links talks about. I did break one open that didn't work, and the 4 tiny wires are soldered directly to a connector inside the stalk, with no support. As the stalk moves (turn signal), wiper delay is activated, etc., those wires are worked at that connection, and break. The "inner" plastic piece (the one with the wiper wash tab on it) is actually pressed onto the (straight) splined steel stalk, so I guess it's theoretically possible to repair one of these by pulling it apart, however it's not something I was able to do with pliers, and looks like you'd mar the plastic portion no matter how careful you tried to be.
The major change IMO with the cruise stalks was likely due to GM's realization of the failure prone nature of the design. Instead of re-doing the inner workings of the stalk (which would have been very simple) GM added a connector right where the stalk goes into the column. This change appears in my 1991 R/V manual, so I suspect that it started right around there. This is not an across the board change, I've seen similar years with the one piece cable. The connector has a stud on it, which is pressed into a hole drilled inside the column, to keep the wires in place. The clip is easily disconnected using a thumbnail. You don't want to break the locking portion, as they are not a tight fit, and will not stay connected well without it. In my experience, this style stalk is easily identified, the 4 tiny, brightly colored wires are typically visible at the base of the stalk.
To remove the stalk, you want the delay wipers off, and you pull straight out. Be careful, as it takes some effort, and when it does come out, you may stress the wires inside the stalk. Don't let your hand fly backwards when it lets go of the column.
I have no idea where the cruise module is mounted in any other vehicle. C/K/R/V is mounted above the gas pedal, on a bracket, which sits over top of the "convenience" center, which has your horn relay, key buzzer, etc. They seem to be identical all years, most of my components are from a mid-80's truck, the wiring colors are almost identical to the '91 wiring, and are identical in function when compared to the connector pinouts.
There are various brake/clutch switches, all do the same thing: cut voltage to the cruise module when either the clutch or brake pedal is depressed. Some switches are combination, either vacuum/cruise, or vacuum/cruise/brake, and some are simply electrical, or vacuum. Stock setups appear to always use a brake switch coupled with the vacuum switch. Minor digression, I am unsure why the vacuum line is there, without voltage, the servo will NOT hold a vacuum. Therefore, other than failing for a visible reason, you can't test the servo without power going to it. You cannot press the servo in manually and cap the ports and have it stay in. You cannot apply vacuum, as the valves operate ONLY with voltage applied to them.
The wiring harness for these setups is entirely standalone from what I've seen. Everything you need unplugs, unbolts, or unclips from the vehicle, no cutting required. Exceptions noted much further down. The brake pedal bracket was already drilled in my truck to accept the cruise module, probably all are. That would be a pain to do with it in the truck! Wherever my setup came from (my dad grabbed the wiring from the wrecking yard one day, he's not here to ask the donor) the wiring was so long that I was able to make a small bracket, and simply mounted my cruise servo to the unused drivers side battery tray. Well out of the way over there.
Be careful when selecting a donor. Later cars (maybe very late trucks) used a new design connector under the column, this setup has no blade connector for the stalk wiring, and the turn signal switch connector is all bundled together in a new shape. Worthless.
VSS. If your 1983-1991 truck has EFI or cruise, you have a VSS buffer, which is hanging off the back of your speedometer. (except DRAC for '90-91) VSS prior to EFI was used solely for cruise control, and I have yet to see an '83-86 speedometer that will not accept VSS. The bolt hole/IR eye slot is already there. So if you want to run a later cruise setup, '83-86 truck, you should have no problem, earlier, run the earlier cluster, or at least the earlier speedometer. VSS buffers were used in every US GM car from 1981-1990 that was carbed, since they had ECM's. These are the same buffers used in the trucks from 1983-1989. The buffers can vary, all have three wires in a ribbon cable that run to the speedometer on one end, the printed circuit board on the other end that runs to the ECM or Cruise module may or may not be setup for dual use. I've seen some that are only setup for ECM or cruise output, I've seen some with connectors for both. VSS needs ignition 12V, a chassis ground, and finally the output wire which feeds whatever you are trying to run with the VSS signal.
DRAC is what is used 1990-1991. This takes the VSS signal from the transmission/t-case and interprets it to whatever things need. Speedometer drive, ECM, cruise, and ABS. Speedometer, cruise and ECM all get 2000 pulses per mile as far as I can tell, while the ABS is something like 128,000 pulses per mile. The DRAC is a white plastic box, used in the 1990-91 R/V trucks, as well as Astros for unknown years. I believe the '88+ C/K trucks also use these, but Astros are just more common as a donor. DRAC needs 12V ignition, ground, 2 VSS wires from the VSS, and then whatever outputs are necessary. Search my username, "DRAC" as post title, you'll find my DRAC thread.
I won't get into servo/cable installation, that is too application specific, and I know too little about the carbed options. Installing the cruise stalk/wiring is a different story.
For any of your donor vehicles, and all the C/K/R/V I have dealt with, you will need (to make your life easier) a 13MM socket, a 15MM socket deep well preferred, a steering wheel puller, a 13/16(?) socket, lock plate compressor, screwdrivers, and that should do it. Small socket set is handy if you don't want to tear up the donor vehicle. Knife or razorblade. Flashlight also handy to peer into the column cavity at the wiring.
*some later S10's I ran into have an additional plate added to the column apparently to defeat column smashing thieves. This uses a torx bit of what looks like size T15-25 or so.
First step, locate donor. I believe some Cadillacs these years will have air bags, I'd avoid these, they looked like a pain.
Pull cover off of the area on the column right behind the cruise stalk. This is easy on the later vehicles, on my column I can't remove that piece, even though it IS a seperate piece. Pull the cruise wire connector free from the column where it's clipped, then disconnect it. You can pull the stalk free here, make sure again not to pull too far, and guide the connector out of the column.
Pull horn cap off, remove steering wheel lock nut retaining clip. Remove steering wheel nut with 13/16(?) socket. Use steering wheel puller to get the wheel out of the way. Should be a black plastic protector here, with three or so slots along the outer edge. Using a flat blade in those slots, pry outward and up, the piece will come unclipped. (just plastic teeth) Remove. Use the lock plate compressor to get to the snap ring, use a small flat blade screwdriver to remove it. Remove the lock plate compressor, lock plate, ring, and the spring on the column. Using a phillips screwdriver, remove the connector link for the turn signal stalk to switch, remove all three screws holding the turn signal switch to the column. You will need to move the switch into the respective turn position to get two of the screws out.
Remove any trim under the column. Find the turn signal switch connector, as well as the 4 wire cruise control switch connector. Disconnect both, remove turn signal switch connector from the bracket on the column. Using the 13MM socket, remove the 4 bolts holding the column retaining plate to the column. Remove the two 15MM nuts holding the plate to the dash. Column will now drop down. On the passenger side of the column, notice the wiring disappearing into a black plastic sleeve. Pry the sleeve over the two 13MM bolt bosses, and remove it from the wires. (use this, or your wires could become frayed later) Now you can pull the turn signal switch far enough out of the column to rotate it.
Peering down the column, you should be able to see where the wiring passes through a slot. You'll need to work the wiring up through the slot. You have an option here, which is what I did: ALL of the "two piece" stalk wiring setups I saw, integrate the column portion of the wiring with the turn signal wiring, and then at the base of the column it splits off. I cut all the wires off of the turn signal switch, so it fell off. Much easier to get just the cable and the cruise connector up that way. Don't yank, use the flashlight to guide the connector up with a screwdriver. Once you get that out, you can work on seperating the 4 cruise wires from the turn signal cable wires. Be very careful here, use your knife or razorblade to start the wires seperating, and watch them. The sheathing is pretty thin, and will allow the wire to rip right through it. I had this happen.
When you get home, if one of the wires seperated from the insualtion: the 4 wires will unclip from the stalk end connector, unclip the problem wire, get that wire seperated from the other three as far as necessary (using a razorblade, score the insulation so it doesn't keep pulling the wire through the insulation instead of seperating from the other three intact) and shrink wrap whatever portion of that wire is exposed. I used larger shrink wrap over sections of all 4 to bundle them back together. Clip wires back into connector, done.
I doubt you can use the donor vehicle combo turn signal switch/cruise wiring, as the columns are shorter it appears.
Anyways, installation is the reverse. Actually pretty simple when you've disassembled one column, and snaking the wire down through the column is easier than up.
I think that covers the taking apart/reassembly for the most part. Basically anyways. If I missed something, let me know, I'll clarify.
I may at some point have the time/inclination to get quality photos up of the troubleshooting and wiring diagrams from my 1991 manual, when I do, I will post up the links to those photos.
