CUCV Axles into K5

[Mastiff]

I might be able to get some CUCV axles to put under my K5. Do the axles require modification to fit? I'm not clear on whether the perches are spaced correctly, etc.

Also, what other mods should I expect? These things are on my radar:

1) Disk brake conversion for 14bolt. What kind of pain should I expect with respect to the brake prop valve, etc.?

2) New driveshafts? Maybe due to length issues, maybe U-joint changes.

3) Steering changes/upgrades. Can anyone point me in the right direction here?

4) ?

Thanks.

 

[Kota4bye]

You'll have to cut te 14b perches and put new ones on.

I was happy with my stock proportion valve.

You'll need a conversion u joint for te 14b

 

[K5dreamer]

asked and answered... i feel strangely un-needed here.

 

[wheels87k5]

I'm guessing that it's the 14bff and dana 60 axles.

Spring perches and shock mounts will need moved on the 14bff. Depending on what type of disc set up you want, it really isn't that big of a deal. I took out the stock proportioning valve and rerouted my brake lines. I run straight to the front brakes and use an after market adjustable valve for the rear. Also depends on do you want emergency brake or not.

Dana 60 is a direct bolt in. May need new brake lines.

If you have no lift then you shouldn't need to do anything to the driveshafts or steering. But I believe you'll need a conversion u-joint.

Others will chime in and add or correct me if I'm wrong.

willie

 

[Kota4bye]

Research crossover steering, you'll want it. Hydro assist if you are goo g to run big tires.

 

[blazinzuk]

How much are you getting. You will need top plates for the 60 and for the 14 bolt, new u bolts for both more than likely.

Rear is perches and shock mounts, but I have carefully cut those off and reused them a couple times.

Front bolts right in no mods needed, pretty sure the drag link is the same so that fits right into the 60 steering arm. Depending on lift you will need a raised steering block.

The better way is to go crossover which you will need a 2 wd box, pitman arm, drag link, and crossover steering arm.

 

[454Sub]

And if you do the crossover, it would be a great time to weld in the frame repair kit, and buy the traingulation piece as well, crossover can and will tear that box clean off and that basically will ruin a wheeling adventure... That being said you should do that regardless, the frames are weak anyways, and its cheap and preventative maintenance.

 

[Mastiff]

Thanks for the help. I already have the ORD steering brace. but not the weld in thing. I'll be sticking with 4" lift and 35's for the time being, is crossover worth the trouble?

I will be getting the spring plates with the axles, maybe U-bolts too, but people say those are good to replace.

Who makes the best disk conversion kit? I'd like to have an E-brake if it doesn't cause too much pain and expense.

 

[454Sub]

Maybe with that lower lift it might not be so much. I have a 12in with 40s and it made an amazing difference. I can do lock to lock under any circumstance now, where before I would cut the wheel all the way one way and the tires would be straight. I have no more wander in the steering and very much reduced bumpsteer. But its kinda pricey, so to each his own.

 

[jwobbs]

I just did the disc conversion on my 14b ff. I sourced all my own parts so didn't go with a kit. I went with kert's brackets and they are beef. Also will add that I ditched the e-brake on mine so I can't speak to that but I am sure someone will chime in who has used the caddy calipers or line loks. As for prop valves, I spent a lot of time reading on this forum and you will get all kinds of setups and all kinds of opinions on each of them. My stock prop valve seemed to work ok, but based on what I saw and read I think over the along run it would have to much braking pressure in the rear and lead to premature wear of the components back there. Was it drivable, yes, but I wanted to do it to decrease any issues as much as possible. I went with Ac delco replacement prop valve for vehicles with disc/ disc set ups part number 172-1361. Was a direct bolt in on my 1987 suburban with the prop valve down under the front crossmember. She stops great and I think this will cause even wear on all the parts. I got the valve for $40 on eBay and this set up worked for me. Might not be the perfect one for you, but it's another set up to add to the list. I have heard good things about replacing the original by plumbing the fronts straight to the calipers and the rears through an adjustable valve, but that is just from buddies experiences.

 

[B.N.Z.MTNS]

Just did my CUCV's into my Blazer this summer. Heres a few pics of the cheap easy method.

Grind out the factory weld and remove the perches.






I rotated my perches a bit to rotate the pinion up toward the transfer case since I'm on 8" of lift. With 4" or less you should be able to just leave them at the same angle, set the leafs back on the axle to be sure they are both the same pitch ...and weld.
Just make sure the wind doesn't blow all your mig gas away while you are in the middle of your pass .



For now I just did the cheap spacer method to mount the rear shocks...hopefully soon I will be changing my whole shock set up all together.



As far as crossover goes. Heres what happened to my steering box. Luckily I had the forthought to put a steering box brace in before the cross over. But the weak link had to be somewhere so the flange on the box broke...busted & stripped the other mounting bolts = bad day.

My fix to get the next 6 miles off the mountain was a bunch of rachet straps and a come-a-long used to suck the steering box against the frame. Somehow it worked. Long story made short, my PSC hydro assist kit and ORD tie rod just arrived in the mail .