There’s line of sight from directly underneath, but that might get obscured by a collector and primaries. Access panel for 7/5 might be the move.
David
CK5
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The Willomet Charger
- Thread starter AgDieseler
- Start date
A desecration to Mopar nuts everywhere, this is my protouring, LS-powered, 1970 Dodge Charger; built at my shop, Willomet Motor & Fabrication.
David
Nice, do those prints have the CLR, degree, and length noted as well? Those would be handy to try first when making a more complex header like that. I have always just done mine right from scratch with the tubes, but I have to tweak the angle in because if you go over you need a new bend.
Are you going to attempt to make the primary pipes fire in a circular motion in the collector? If it doesn't fit it doesn't fit, but it's one of the final things in your exhaust left to optimize.
I like your updates!
Are you going to attempt to make the primary pipes fire in a circular motion in the collector? If it doesn't fit it doesn't fit, but it's one of the final things in your exhaust left to optimize.
I like your updates!
The driver collector makes that pretty easy, while the passenger collector makes that substantially more difficult.
Right now my plan is not to fight it on the passenger side. Get it in a rotation if I can; don’t sweat it if I can’t.
David
Passenger side is proving to be the most crowded. Jogging past the starter and the oil ports for the dry sump while still leaving room for 7 and 1 routing to the collector… it’s a brain breaker.
David
David
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I’ll definitely have to use some header shield around the starter, and that part of the exhaust that goes around it. There’s about 1” clearance all around.
David
1” of clearance?? That’s a mile in race car shit!
do you need to hug the block ? maybe stay a little straighter past the oil ports then go under ?
I think it does.
I played with that initially. 8 and 2 have to snake through and be equal length, so that takes up about three tubes of space, and 3 and 5 have to wrap around from the other side.
It’s all pretty tight, and I think that the inner tubes have to hug in real tight to make room for all those others.
But I could be wrong.
David
Slightly more detail. This whole effort is cramming a lot into a small space.
David
David
When David is cussing the engineer in 10 years ........
Definitely going to have to relo’ the filter, and the drain plugs will get valves with hose nipples. Got my mind right about that overnight.
David
First primary is 39.378” all the way to the collector. There’s maybe 1/2” of fat to trim of if I had to.
David
David
#5 is setting up to be a lot easier.
David
David
It's all looking really trick, I have confidence you will get the tradeoffs correct for your desired outcome. I like watching the build and you are going to be happy when you get them done.
Have you considered adding an oil cooler in with the dry sump and remote filter? Those 4 crossover tubes have always made me think, hot oil. The reservior is not in the pan, which is good and bad. The pan is not full of oil, that means the pan may get hotter without a larger bath of oil cooling it. So is the fact that the pan is aluminum and bolted to the liquid cooled engine going to keep the pan cool enough with 4 exhaust tubes under it? Heat shields and an oil cooler may be your friend. Then again, hot oil makes more power, as long as it isn't too hot. But too cold of oil will not be god either because it condenses with moisture that doesn't boil out. I think an oil temperature sensor is looking important for this build.
Have you considered adding an oil cooler in with the dry sump and remote filter? Those 4 crossover tubes have always made me think, hot oil. The reservior is not in the pan, which is good and bad. The pan is not full of oil, that means the pan may get hotter without a larger bath of oil cooling it. So is the fact that the pan is aluminum and bolted to the liquid cooled engine going to keep the pan cool enough with 4 exhaust tubes under it? Heat shields and an oil cooler may be your friend. Then again, hot oil makes more power, as long as it isn't too hot. But too cold of oil will not be god either because it condenses with moisture that doesn't boil out. I think an oil temperature sensor is looking important for this build.
I think you’re right. Headershield can go on the primaries but below the sight-line with the hood open (I want pretty gold cerakote on the stainless), and even on the bottom of the oil pan itself. A temp sensor, a big cooler, and a thermostat make a lot of sense.
David
