What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Cummins owners

freeflow

freeflow

1/2 ton status
Joined
Nov 6, 2004
Posts
274
Reaction score
0
Location
alexandria, minnesota
Ok well i got a 99 dodge 2500. 5" lift 35" rubber. I LOVE the truck, they only thing i dont like is the sissy 360 v8. Sucks gas like crazy and can barely spin the tires. I got a few friends around here that have dodge diesels and i have decided to swap a cummins into my truck.

Now my friends are telling me to get a 12 valve cummins since they dont have the computers and would be easier to swap into my truck.

what do u guys think? should i go with a 12 valve or a 24 valve? And any idea on how hard it would be to install? the frames are the same so im guessing just motor mounts and a diesel rad support?

what i wanna do is find a dodge 3/4 ton this winter that has been in a roll over and yank the engine/tranny out of it and get it ready to swap in next spring.

STP60681.JPG
 
Definitely get a 12v from a 94-98.5 or better yet a 96-98.5 manual (bigger pump) but not a real major concern
 
Im finding alot of 2wd's for under 3 grand. That should work correct? Since my truck already has a d60 in the front i could just yank the motor/tranny/rear end outta the diesel and swap into my truck and just find a t-case at a boneyard
 
i vote 24v, the 12v would be simpler but you lose the push button adjustability of a computer controlled engine. example- i have a 2000 24v with a edge juice w/attitude controller, with the push of a button i can go from stock mode to 120hp and like 250tq increase. in economy mode in a 7200lb truck i get approx 22mpg on the highway unloaded (crusing at 70). upgrade the trans if you go auto, put in a good fuel pump (i love my FASS pump) big exhaust, air filter kit , tuner and maybe some injectors and you'll wonder why any one would buy a gas truck. just my .02$
 
its personal preference. 24v to 12v. electronics to mechanical. But honestly if you go electronic go with a HPCR out of an '03-'07 it is a superior fuel system to the ISB 24v. the '98.5-'02 Vp44 powered trucks are a hybrid/crossover fuel system bridging mechanical to electronic. IMHO, '94-'98 P7100 best, '03-'07 CP3 common rail 2nd best...then a distant 3rd the good old '98.5-'02 VP44 trucks. now I made a metric assload of power with my '98.5 and it was fun to drive. but the VP44 is a maintenance item. even with all the fuel pressure support you can give it. it CAN go at any time. and thats not good enough for me.
 
just use the 12 valve bottem end (its stronger) then just use the 24 valve head and computer. yet it will take a little more work but wireing is simple. each plug has only one port it will fit in so just make the "round peg go to the round hole" so to speak. the power and economy will be well worth it. my buddies cummins made over 11 hundered lbft and 470 hp to the wheels with stock programer and injecters. so you know power will be there.
in the end you will be much more happier with the 24 valve
 
the rotating assemblys in 12valves and 24 valves are the same. only the head and injection systems are different. there are some small variances but size for size they're identical. 24v head flows much better than the 12v head, that is probably the single biggest factor in powermaking. the Cr head flows that much better again.


I made 606 rwhp with my 24 valve. 12v is just as easy or easier to make big power.
 
yes they are identical in size. but read any diesel mag. you will notice all the drag racers and sed pullers specificly mention a 12 valve cummins bottom end. it is because it is stronger than the 24valve
 
:doah:Riiiight..........magazine racing. sorry I don't race magazines. I make horse power.

Generally thats because they started OUT with a 12v cummins. ported the crap out of the head, and put a huge injection pump on it. no one starts out with 24v because of the 53 block dilema. I pumped 600hp through a 53 block for more than a year with no crack. its the core shift that give a problem with some cracking. I've had a subcription to Diesel Power for years. I've got 3 friends with trucks that make more than 1000 hp to the rollers dyno proven.
 
listen man i can lie and make up useless facts about friends and ****. i dont care what your friends do. im just telling you what i built in shop and what works.
 
I'm just a moron HD mechanic working in a truck shop. I don't need to makeup jack pal. especially for you. bring some fact to the table and we can have a conversation. Not "this is what all the magazines say"....now its what "I build in shop" I'm paid to work on Detroits, but i play with baby Cummins because its fun.

Pickup the July 2008 Diesel Power......flip to page 160. see the Orange & black '03 making 1141hp and 2245 ftlbs in Vegas. His name is Aaron Schaft he's from Rimbey Alberta, buddy of mine. Hes a machinist, he cut the o-rings in my last head. and I help modify his cage.
 
I personally like the eariler 12v 91.5-93 intercooled, mainley cause there cheap and plentiful oh and they fit nicely in my K5. I would seriously consider just buying a different truck and swapping the accesories you want to keep. The Diesel trucks have come down a whole bunch in price. If I was building a truck for lots of power and reliability I would go with a p-pumped 24v. I have never had any trouble with my 02 but I'm not making big power and if it ever did become a problem I would simply p-pump it, cause I like my interior better than the 94-97 and I can't stand the 3rd gens, but hey that's just me and my own opinion for what it's worth.
 
Ummmmmmmm...........

sandypants, I think you should know that you're arguing with a Red Seal diesel mechanic who is one of the Cummins gurus here at CK5. He doesn't get his info from friends or from magazines. :deal:

BTW, your attitude is less than impressive. Please take a deep breath and try again.
 
By the way - just out of curosity what would be a ballpark cost in converting a gas truck to a diesel? A few years ago I priced a GM diesel at a junk yard- they wanted $5000 for the engine (only) and electronics with 80K miles.
Right now dealers can't sell trucks - let alone a diesel. Maybe buying a complete running 6 - 8 year old diesel truck might really be a better option.
 
I dont really wanna try to sell the truck and buy a cummins. just wanna swap one in. I have over 8 grand worth of accesories on the truck, even if i did put it back to stock i wouldnt get what i want for it since its a gas guzzling 3/4 ton.
 
Why not price a 99 Dodge 3/4ton with a Cummins engine. Add your lift, wheels, and other goodies from the gas truck to the diesel truck. Use the diesel truck parts to return your gas truck to stock. Now you have a factory diesel truck with all the goodies you enjoyed and a stock gas truck to sell. Note - winter is right around the corner. As soon as the first heavy snow fall hits all 4 wheel drive vehicles will increase in value $2000. Most average people would prefer to purchase a stock vehicle. Big wheels, 5" lift, and brush guards SCREEM ABUSE ! - ever if it wasn't.
There may be other things to think about if you swap engines, automatic transmissions used on diesels use a 6 bolt heavy duty torque converter and different rpm shift points. The diesel may require higher rate front coil springs ( heavier engine ). Fuel pump and lines may be different, fuel fitler may be mounted in a different area. Even the radiator may be different for a diesel. Your daily driver may be out of commision for weeks while you iron out all these issues. Good luck.
 
Last edited:
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom