Doing a cut and turn on a set of Dana-60 steering knuckle C's, in order to increase caster sounds like a major b!tch...anybody have experience with this?
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CK5
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Cut and Turn Dana 60
- Thread starter 1-ton
- Start date
I remember watching a video about it years ago. Some time to cut the welds carefully is where I see the biggest challenge. Especially on the inside of the C. Seems like they heated the C with a torch to help it move, too.
I haven't tried it, don't need to with mine. I would like to build a custom axle though.
I haven't tried it, don't need to with mine. I would like to build a custom axle though.
There's videos on it on YouTube. Most I've seen have been dana 44s. Principles the same though.
Would think you would be better off swapping tubes on a HP differential. I always was concerned about oiling the pinion bearing if the pinion is at such an angle. I roasted a 14bff pinion bearing pretty quickly when it was setup pointed to TC with 8" of lift. So I would think it would be similar issue on a front axle. Just something to think about
Have a high pinion housing built for it and swap over your guts and just need a set of high pinion gears this would get you best all around .
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Scribe or cut marks in the tube and inner C to indicate initial position. Then you'll be able to measure the amount of change after you rotate them.
Grind off the majority of the weld and then take a cutoff wheel and cut into the weld at a 45 degree angle.
Do that all around and you'll see the crack at where the two materials meet. Love taps with a bfh and spraying wd40 can help make them easier to see.
Once it's separated all the way around, it's ready to rotate. Honestly not bad at all. Preheat the inner c if it's nice and toit.
I like to put a chain all the way through the housing and tubes and hang it from a hoist to weld it.
Grind off the majority of the weld and then take a cutoff wheel and cut into the weld at a 45 degree angle.
Do that all around and you'll see the crack at where the two materials meet. Love taps with a bfh and spraying wd40 can help make them easier to see.
Once it's separated all the way around, it's ready to rotate. Honestly not bad at all. Preheat the inner c if it's nice and toit.
I like to put a chain all the way through the housing and tubes and hang it from a hoist to weld it.
Won’t the diff side spring pad need to be milled back level (and move the other side)?
Seems like a lot of work unless the truck has 12”+ of lift.
Seems like a lot of work unless the truck has 12”+ of lift.
Swap in a ORD 4 link and turn the upper links. 
Truth is, this doesn’t work. The pinion and outer C’s need about 5-7* more between the two and the spring pads to get 6-9* and a good u joint angleSwap in a ORD 4 link and turn the upper links.
Well poop.
If you link it and lop the C’s loose, then you can fix it right though
with leaf springs, the spring perch angle and C’s are really only optimized for factory ride height
You can cram in 8* shims and lean the C back 8* and send it. Your 91 though, not the truck to do it on.
I have a set of diy4x 4-degree wedges in the spring pack now, which gives me enough correct pinion angle for my 8" lift. This puts my caster at 3 degrees positive with 38" tirrs. I need about another 4 degrees positive caster at least.
Cutting and turning the c's on a dana-60 is more than most people on this site ever deal with. Dana-60 c's are press fit. The c's weld have to be complety cut off, heated, removed, heated again, then re-installed close to the positive caster, then re-heated installed quickly set to the positive caster requierd.
If you want stockish i have a few pairz of gm 60 inner c's . . . But there not primo like your clean truck as i live in the rust belt . But there not paper thin .
They don't have to be heated or to be removed. The press fit isn't that tight, and some hammer blows will knock them over.
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I disagree. I have watched several video's on both the dana-44 and 60. The 44 can be removed with a hammer, but in all three video's i watched on the 60 a hammer could not make them move an inch. They all had be heated because 60's are press fit.
Depends on the size of the hammer. I haven't done that to a D60, but I had a guy tell me that he couldn't get a spring bolt to move. I got it out! Bigger hammer!
You are disagreeing with a guy that has done it.
Your saying three different video's showing guys beating the hell out of dana-60 c's with a bfh, and not getting them off, then resorting to heating them and then beating them off with a bfh where wrong?
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