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cut and turn front axle

big83chevy4x4

big83chevy4x4

3/4 ton status
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ive been thinking about doing something horific to my axle to help elieviate some pinion angle, the ole cut and turn. i have only heard about it and seen very little about it on a chevy axle.

i think since the spring perch is cast into the housing i will need to weld some shims to the axle, or have it milled (not an easy task). then cut and turn to get the caster at the right spec.

how would i go about this, cut the tubes and weld it back together? or grind the weld down at the inner C and tap it to the angle required?

i don't like the idea of cuting the tube, i know if its done correctly it should be just as strong, but i don't have a welder big enough to do that. also what if i don't get it straight, it may cause more problems than i am solving.

grinding down the weld, to me, sounds like alot better idea. are the an interfierence fit? will i be able to turn them once the weld is ground down? could i posibly heat the inner C up and turn it?

also if i get a 15* shim (if i can find one) i would have to turn the knuckles 15* back right?

has anyone here done it? am i missing something or thinking incorrectly?

BTW i have a spare housing that i am planning to do the surgery to so my truck isn't down long.
 
I, myself, have only seen it done once. They cut out the weld at the knuckles and rewelded. Used a big hammer and a rosebud to rotate the knuckles. On the case they "built" a perch using weld and then machined it at the right angle. Looked simple enough for someone with the right tools.

I know Koz used to rotate knuckles for pretty cheap, I don't know if he does or not anymore. I know it was cheap enough where I wasn't even considering doing it myself and I'm a cheap bastard. He's a pretty cool guy, albeit a Jeep guy. www.kozoffroad.com
 
ok thanks, thats what i was thinking about cutting the weld and turning the knuckle. do you know if it is an interfierence fit?

i don't know about the welding and milling of cast perch. it might be hard to lug the housing into a machineshop and have them machine that. prolly cost more (setup time) than to just weld some shims to it. the little bit of lift of the shims i could live with.

being with no job make me extremely cheap and i plan on doing it my self.
 
I have it done to my axle, but it was custom made. I wouldnt do it myself, simply because theres shops that do it for a living, who can do it quick, efficent and percise. Im not sure if you can cut, turn and re weld, or get new tubes (I dont think youd HAVE to) .
 
Is your pinion angle that bad with only 4" of lift (as it says in your sig) I have 9" of lift and a d60 and I used zero rates to shim my angle up, my caster is about 4 degrees, I think it is supposed to be 6 stock, and it drives and rides fine, and my pinion angle is fine too, not quite straight towards the t-case, but close.

If you only have 4 inches of lift, I believe that you can shim it and be fine.
 
IMO, there isnt any reason this should be necessary. People get anal about angles when the reality is that all they need is a shaft that is built to take the angle they're operating at.

The 1 ton CV with a 1410 on the pinion would be great in this application, and would never bind. A hell of a lot cheaper than a cut and turn.

I will never understand why people will spend $4000 on axles, $3000 on a motor, $1000 to rebuild their tranny/transfer case or $2000 for a doubler, but are still trying to run stock drivelines. They're really not that expensive, and trust me guys, its WELL worth it. /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
I will never understand why people will spend $4000 on axles, $3000 on a motor, $1000 to rebuild their tranny/transfer case or $2000 for a doubler, but are still trying to run stock drivelines. They're really not that expensive, and trust me guys, its WELL worth it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Uh, who does this. This isnt another plug for Jesse is it? /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif
 
[ QUOTE ]
[ QUOTE ]
I will never understand why people will spend $4000 on axles, $3000 on a motor, $1000 to rebuild their tranny/transfer case or $2000 for a doubler, but are still trying to run stock drivelines. They're really not that expensive, and trust me guys, its WELL worth it.

[/ QUOTE ]

Uh, who does this. This isnt another plug for Jesse is it? /forums/images/graemlins/rolleyes.gif

[/ QUOTE ]

A lot of people do it, me included.

I don't have to, "Plug for Jesse." His product plugs itself, you just have to get it on your vehicle and beat on it.

Or, go to a rock crawling competition and check out the 51 people that are running his shaft on their rig. /forums/images/graemlins/waytogo.gif
 
i have 4" of lift and a clocked tcase, it doesn't help with the angle.

i figured it out and i need a 6* change, i may just do a 4* shim and live with the caster. i found something and caster was at 8* for out trucks well the 81-87 atleast (what they had listed)
 
nuttin wrong with cutting/turning, especially if you are building a rig with a short wheelbase. Bigger joints allow you to run shafts at greater angles, but the lower the angle during use the longer the joints will last and the less chance there is of breakage. Having the luxury of lots of travel/angle is good thing tho.

I run HAD shafts front and rear, and IMO, calling them "not that expensive" is a little bit misleading, unless you are getting them for free or you're rich. My shafts cost me more than my D60, and I wouldnt call a 60 "inexpensive" either. Don't get me wrong, they are the best shafts money can buy, HAD rules and Jesse kicks ass. HAD is definitely one of the best companies in the aftermarket 4x4 parts world... but they ain't cheap.

j
 
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