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CV joint replacement question / new axles installed still popping

SkysTheLimit

SkysTheLimit

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UPDATE: OK, so I went ahead and replaced the CV joints, well, rather ripped one in half because NONE of the manuals I read said the intermediate shaft bearing is PRESSED in. so, took it to the shop and had them do it.

NOW, when i turn the wheels, it pops like mad. Upper strut bearings perhaps? It's bad enough that you can feel it in the floorboard and the fender if you put your hand on it and turn the wheel. This is even sitting still.

None of this started until I went in and replaced the springs which is why I'm thinking upper strut bearings. When I pulled them apart, they seemed fine tho which is strange. Car has 100k miles on it.

Help!!??

Thanks


--original--
Anyone ever replaced the CV joints / shafts on a Lexus ES300? I'm going through and doing my 100k mile tune up stuff and went ahead and replaced the springs with some lowering sport springs and now I hear that grumbling sound going around a corner. Handles nice though...:crazy:

I was planning to take it in for an alignment/balance/rotate anyway, is it worth the $$ (haven't called for estimate yet) to just have them do it?

thanks guys
 
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Have you ever replaced a CV Shaft?

If you have replaced ONE, you have replaced them ALL.

I don't know about that specific car, but I have done many many other CV shafts and they are all about the same.

Just do it yourself and know it's done right.
 
Nope, never done one before. This is the first front wheel drive car I've ever wrenched on. Doesn't seem like it'd be too much harder than building a D60. Looking up the part online I see "slip fit". I like the sound of that. I'm hoping its like swapping in a axle shaft in a 60.

The shop I use is just down the street so I guess worst case is I screw it up and have to tow it down there. :o
 
Ok, well here are a few guidelines. They may not all apply to your application but they are things to keep in mind.

1. You will need to remove the lower ball joint from the lower arm. Use the 'hit it with a hammer' method (not on the threads) and it will pop loose.

2. You should be able to leave the strut attached and the steering attached as well. (sometimes the steering joint has to be moved to make the next step doable.)

3. remove the 32mm (or 30mm) center nut from the center of the wheel. This attaches the CV shaft to the rotor and hub assembly and then roll the brake/strut/steering assembly out of the way and the CV shaft will slide out of it. Secure it out of your way with a bungee or a ratchet strap.

4. Pull on the shaft, it should come out of the trans... if not.. then use two BIG screwdriver and pry at it near the transmission. There is a C-clip in there that has to be popped out. Don't pull on the shaft to much or you will pull the CV joint apart.

5. Then either install a whole new shaft (EASIEST) or clean, grease and boot the old one (HARDER AND NOT ALWAYS CHEAPER) and reinstall it.

Remember, if you can take it apart, you can put it together. Especially on this job.

Good Luck.
 
Cool. Many thanks. I'll see if I can get the parts ordered in time to take care of that this weekend coming up.

Any extra parts I may need? A particular grease, bearings, etc?
 
Parts have been ordered. Hopefully they'll get here by Friday. I went ahead and got the complete assemblies.

Thanks alot for the tips!
 
I'm pretty sure you don't even have to pop the ball joint on that one. It should have 3 bolts that hold it to the lower control arm.
 
Lets hope. The easier the better. I got a backup to drive in the meantime as the trip home tonight will be the last until i get them swapped out. Turning left sounds like one of those toys kids push around and it makes the little balls pop in the plastic globe...

Have I mentioned how much I abhor front wheel drive lately?
 
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