This is correct.
CK5
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cv shaft and shackle flip, still vibrates. [Final say]
- Thread starter metalneverdies
- Start date
I admit defeat
I had the same issue. For me, I know it was from the tcase, or at least it was contributing. The chain in the tcase had enough slop in it that it would cause the same vibrations you're talking about.
A way I figured out to subside the vibrations was to use the brakes and gas to keep the tcase under load. For instance, if I was needing to slow down to make a turn, I would apply the brakes while still giving it gas, but slowly backing off the amount of throttle to slow down.
Have you tried that? It obviously wouldn't solve your problem, but might help eliminate possibilities.
PICS of R&P
Well, I took the truck down to blumenthals. Even after I called and said I will be coming in, I was told (after a night of no sleep, got off work at 2:30am and went in at 9) that they didn't have time to work on it today. He had too many other shafts that HAD to be done by 5.
I did get them to at least check out my angles and check the t-case bushings and the pinion end. They said the play in the drive shaft is completely normal. They said they will inspect the shaft and balance it. If there is any issues with the shaft or replacing parts it will be on them 100%.
It turns out that I had the little C clips not facing the right way on my installs. They told me to make sure the opening faces the front of the truck and the C must be in full contact with the pinion side. I fixed that in the parking lot and drove home. It did make a minor difference in vibrations, but it is very much still there.
When I got home I took the diff cover off. The oil was semi shiny but no big metal chunks. Definitely looks like pretty old oil.
There was weird gasket or something stuck to the diff cover. It was on the perfect round indent, on the other side it looks like a small rock dent, so I do not know what that is about. I took several pics of what I found. Would love some input on what you guys think.
If I do go to change the bearings, but keep everything else (if it looks OK) can I just measure the difference between the old and new bearings and adjust my shim heights accordingly?
Well, I took the truck down to blumenthals. Even after I called and said I will be coming in, I was told (after a night of no sleep, got off work at 2:30am and went in at 9) that they didn't have time to work on it today. He had too many other shafts that HAD to be done by 5.
I did get them to at least check out my angles and check the t-case bushings and the pinion end. They said the play in the drive shaft is completely normal. They said they will inspect the shaft and balance it. If there is any issues with the shaft or replacing parts it will be on them 100%.
It turns out that I had the little C clips not facing the right way on my installs. They told me to make sure the opening faces the front of the truck and the C must be in full contact with the pinion side. I fixed that in the parking lot and drove home. It did make a minor difference in vibrations, but it is very much still there.
When I got home I took the diff cover off. The oil was semi shiny but no big metal chunks. Definitely looks like pretty old oil.
There was weird gasket or something stuck to the diff cover. It was on the perfect round indent, on the other side it looks like a small rock dent, so I do not know what that is about. I took several pics of what I found. Would love some input on what you guys think.
If I do go to change the bearings, but keep everything else (if it looks OK) can I just measure the difference between the old and new bearings and adjust my shim heights accordingly?
more pics.
I had a really hard time getting a pattern to show up with that stupid Prussian Blue stuff.
I had a really hard time getting a pattern to show up with that stupid Prussian Blue stuff.
I doubt you will get a good pattern wit everything still all covered in gear oil... Can of brake cleaner
I was afraid I would dry out the bearings and would ruin it.
Ill spray everything down and re-do it.
Looks like a crack?
Casting mark. Photo is deceiving. Defiantly a ridge with a rough edge.
new R&P pattern
I am still having trouble getting the coast side to show up. I douched the gears in a whole can of brake cleaner. The drive side shows up OK.
does the position look ok? Almost seems like the pinion needs to move farther into the ring gear, like closer to the outside edge? The far inside edge of the ring gear teeth are slightly worn over. Like the edge has been beveled.
I really hate this blue crap. The yellow is way better to work with.
I am still having trouble getting the coast side to show up. I douched the gears in a whole can of brake cleaner. The drive side shows up OK.
does the position look ok? Almost seems like the pinion needs to move farther into the ring gear, like closer to the outside edge? The far inside edge of the ring gear teeth are slightly worn over. Like the edge has been beveled.
I really hate this blue crap. The yellow is way better to work with.
y5mgisi
1 ton status
I'm of no help. But it sure looks like the pinion needs moved away from the carrier.
Best I could get from the coast side.
If the drive shaft checks out to be fine, I think I am going to change out all the bearings.
Could I just measure the size difference between the old and replacement bearings and add or remove shims as necessary to keep the same overall depth?
I cant seem to fine a good solid list of torques, and specs for 10 bolt R&R.
Pirate has a fantastic walk though for the 60.
If the drive shaft checks out to be fine, I think I am going to change out all the bearings.
Could I just measure the size difference between the old and replacement bearings and add or remove shims as necessary to keep the same overall depth?
I cant seem to fine a good solid list of torques, and specs for 10 bolt R&R.
Pirate has a fantastic walk though for the 60.
Sometimes a gear set gives the pattern really deep in one direction and really shallow in the other (I can only make out one side in the pictures) and you can't do anything about it except split the difference.
But I thought this noise started only when the lift was installed. If the pinion bearings are good, then lifting the suspension won't have any effect on how the diff works. I just hate to see you setting up the gears and messing with a new crush sleeve unless you're sure there's good reason. Who installed that LSD and set up the gears?
If you do change all the bearings, then keep all the shims that are in it. If you reassemble with all the same shims, you will get a very similar pattern to what you have now. That is probably your best starting point to adjust from there.
How many miles on the gears? The pattern is even harder with used gears because they already have wear in the teeth.
But I thought this noise started only when the lift was installed. If the pinion bearings are good, then lifting the suspension won't have any effect on how the diff works. I just hate to see you setting up the gears and messing with a new crush sleeve unless you're sure there's good reason. Who installed that LSD and set up the gears?
If you do change all the bearings, then keep all the shims that are in it. If you reassemble with all the same shims, you will get a very similar pattern to what you have now. That is probably your best starting point to adjust from there.
How many miles on the gears? The pattern is even harder with used gears because they already have wear in the teeth.
The vibration did start after the lift. I am wondering if at first it was angles, then bad CV shaft, and now that I have a proper working shaft (assuming all goes well at the shop Friday) that leaves the notchy pinion. I am wondering if the change in angles and shaft type is letting a vibration show up that was being canceled out before.
I did a bunch of reading on why angles are so important. Besides being in operating range of the ujoint, the angles help cancel out vibrations that the drive lines produce. There is always vibrations happening and the proper angles make them cancel each other out.
The rear gears and auburn where installed by 4 wheel parts in Arizona. After the gov lock blew out of the diff cover YEARS ago. As far back as I can remember the truck has had that auburn rear LSD in it. I believe it was done at about 100K miles. Im a bit shy of 150K right now. However, the truck sat around for years with getting less than 1000 miles on it.
EDIT: Apparently it was done once at GM and the last time at 4 Wheel Parts.
If I pop the truck into neutral while going down the freeway and it still vibrates, then it is still potentially the shaft, right?
I am going back into the drive line shop tomorrow at 8 am. Pulling an all nighter FTW.
I am going back into the drive line shop tomorrow at 8 am. Pulling an all nighter FTW.
xenomarine
1/2 ton status
Dude this is the shaft I sold you right? Shouldn't be that, it was a legitimate high angle driveline shaft, balanced by them with no dents as you saw. Have them throw it on the balancer, should spin true.
Yeah, its that shaft.
The cv joints were toast. They squeaked when I moved the joints around. The guy said the ball/socket joint was bad. The shop took the joint apart and showed me how the ball and socket part had no grease and was chewed up from running dry. They also were showing me how it should have had a rubber sleeve around that part.
After the rebuild, it helped the vibrations some. About a 70 percent reduction. Still vibrates at highway speeds
xenomarine
1/2 ton status
Holy **** man I had no idea, it only had about 8k on it. Really sorry about that.
