Doing some beefin up on my new Dana 60f and looking at some of the nylon spindle bearings . Has any one had bad luck with these chewing up the stub shaft ? I know that the stock bearing is a sob to remove and these won't rust and chew up the shaft like the needle bearing ones will.I will also be doing 35 spline stubs with warn hubs ,do the dura bould stubs have a good rep or should I quit being a tight a$$ and go with the yukon. What kind of u-joint if i still got factory inner shafts ?
CK5
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D-60 upgrades
- Thread starter chaoticK5
- Start date
Synthetic spindle bushings are the way to go. 
Stay away from the Durasolid stub shafts, that was the company that used to make them for Yukon but there are too many quality issues so Yukon found another manufacture. Axles made in the USA are ALOT better then the ones made in India. Spicer or Longfield u-joints are what I recommend.
Stay away from the Durasolid stub shafts, that was the company that used to make them for Yukon but there are too many quality issues so Yukon found another manufacture. Axles made in the USA are ALOT better then the ones made in India. Spicer or Longfield u-joints are what I recommend.
The nylon races are pretty sweet I think. Last BB I lost a inner bearing on Hells the last day. When I took it all apart that's what was mainly keeping everything from flopping around to bad. The outer shaft cleaned up fine. But the spindle was trashed from the bearing being gone. I have had great luck with the spicer joints. The non greaseable ones. 508-6 I think. Throw some full circle snap rings on them while you are putting them in. I can get u a part number if u need one. Sucks to go back and do it. I know that one first hand.
owenst7
1/2 ton status
if stock inners prob just get spicer outers if me.
and stock shafts need machined for full circle snap rings to fit.
and yep spicers are good joints.
and if me skip the warn hubs and find a set of spicers and have them broched to 35 spline. better hubs.
read part way down on the pro's and cons of each hub here. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280735&highlight=spicer
and stock shafts need machined for full circle snap rings to fit.
and yep spicers are good joints.
and if me skip the warn hubs and find a set of spicers and have them broched to 35 spline. better hubs.
read part way down on the pro's and cons of each hub here. http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=280735&highlight=spicer
The yukon shafts will accept the full circle clips, the spicer u joints seem to hold up according to the net. Neither Norby or I have busted one yet. People report the biggest problem is caps coming loose and taking the ears off the shaft, thats the reason for the full clips. I am a fan of drive flanges. I started with a set of warn premium hubs and smoked one the first run out in the snow. Went to flanges and haven't had any problems. Maybe I'm missing the boat, but I don't see the need for hubs on a non daily driven rig. Even then I would run flanges if it where a double duty rig and just pull the slugs out till trail time. Just me though.
Here is a part number for the clips that I posted in the build thread. Hope it helps. I can measure them if you need me too, just let me know.
If anybody is looking for a part number, here are the full circle clips /snap rings i picked up from US bearing supply. They where only $3.81 for a bag of 25, pretty cheap I thought. They had to order them, but it only took 4 days and was free. They are supposed to be .55 thick, the spicer half clips are .62 if memory serves.
Attached Images
Here is a part number for the clips that I posted in the build thread. Hope it helps. I can measure them if you need me too, just let me know.
If anybody is looking for a part number, here are the full circle clips /snap rings i picked up from US bearing supply. They where only $3.81 for a bag of 25, pretty cheap I thought. They had to order them, but it only took 4 days and was free. They are supposed to be .55 thick, the spicer half clips are .62 if memory serves.
Attached Images
longfield bushings
just got off the phone with boby longfield about the spindle bushings/bairings and the kit will eliminate the small iner seal and the brass washer ? The shaft still has the big seal on the dust cover,Ive neever had good luck with these things keepen watter out any way so i think ill give these teflon bushings a shot .Thay also offer a tool that threds on to your spindle after you remove the hub to lube the spindle bairing without pullingthe shaft and will create a grease seal for the stub shaft .Im going with both ,at least it will be easy to mantaine .
just got off the phone with boby longfield about the spindle bushings/bairings and the kit will eliminate the small iner seal and the brass washer ? The shaft still has the big seal on the dust cover,Ive neever had good luck with these things keepen watter out any way so i think ill give these teflon bushings a shot .Thay also offer a tool that threds on to your spindle after you remove the hub to lube the spindle bairing without pullingthe shaft and will create a grease seal for the stub shaft .Im going with both ,at least it will be easy to mantaine .
Yeah the bushings are super easy to put in. Hardest part is getting old bearing out! Agree on the dust cover thing on the back, doesn't really seem to do much, but I keep putting it back on. Norby has one of those tools and seems to like it.
i got spare 60 spindle nut and am going to weld a section of pipe to it and greese fitting in the center . make my own if i can cheeper.
