Bhintz
1/2 ton status
what is the max tire size youd run w/ a front d60 and 30spline outers
CK5
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D60 30spine strength
- Thread starter Bhintz
- Start date
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
I have seen 38.5" TSL SX's snap a 30 spline stub with ease.
Harley
Harley
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
I have seen 44s with big blocks last a full season of wheeling. But, depends on terrain. This was mostly mud that they were running.
Gooey mud is much more forgiving on axles than rocks. So, depends on the terrain you run?
Gooey mud is much more forgiving on axles than rocks. So, depends on the terrain you run?
readymix
3/4 ton status
If you look in hte D60 Bible you will see that BV ran 38's on 30spl stubs but said he would go no bigger. He upgraded to 35Spl when he upsized to 42's
Bhintz
1/2 ton status
well if everything works out right I be running 39.5 tsls by the end of the week and w/ the 4.10s I want to upgrade to 5.13s first but I dont feel like replacing stubs all the time, o and I run mainly tellico
Just fyi - if you haven't bought gears, according to a thread on Pirate Randy's R&P will be offering a 5.38 for the 14 bolt late spring.
Bhintz
1/2 ton status
I read that but who knows if or when theyll really be out
Yeah, I think theyre supposed to be released at the same time as the 3:1 205.Bhintz said:
FWP
CRS
To clarify a bit... 7000 lb truck with doubler, 4.10, locked front, in the rocks, and I aint talkin light wheelin ...
Hossbaby50 said:
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Yes, this is very true. Snapping 2 in one weekend though makes it not a fluke breakage though.FWP said:
Harley
FWP
CRS
That's cause you didn't see what I was fooling around on in Lower Woodpecker when the first one went. That was some major skinny pedal...LOL
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
I think it completely depends on driviong style and terrain.
I know of one guy that was blowing stub shafts and shooting the drive flanges like a rocket. This was with a BBC with GOBS of power.
Then also antoher guy with the same setup but milder motor and a lighter foot... and no breakage.
I know of one guy that was blowing stub shafts and shooting the drive flanges like a rocket. This was with a BBC with GOBS of power.
Then also antoher guy with the same setup but milder motor and a lighter foot... and no breakage.
surpip
1 ton status
man the implications of this post boggle my mind, i just did my gears, so now i need tires so im not revvin through the moon on the freeway, so now when i get tires, i have to baby the truck till i get 35 spline outers, or save for cromoly 30's, but i guess if 30 spline cromo's are as strong as normal 35 splines, than 35 cromo's would be the best, but than now i learn that the 35 spline lock outs are are weaker than 30 spline ones, so would i just break those all the time? where is the happy medium? this makes my brain hurt
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
Answer first... what size tire do you want?surpip said:
surpip
1 ton status
right now im planning 42x14 r17 iroks with H2 rims, later upgrading to a beadlock of some kind(cyberfire or staxworks) ill nedd the tires soon, planing by the end of Jan.
Hossbaby50
3/4 ton status
Option #1. Leave it with stock 30 splines and be careful with the skinny pedal. You will want to carry a stock 30 spline spare stub, spindle, and locking hub.
Option #2. Go 30 spline chromo stubs and keep your stock locking hubs since it will end up stronger then a 35 spline stock stub setup unless you use driveflanges. Carry a spare hub.
Option #3. 35 spline stubs and driveflanges. Driveflanges may not work well if you DD your rig or use it on the street much.
My personal opinion is I would go with #2. You upgrade the stub shaft to be as strong as a 35 spline except you don't need new locking hubs (that are weaker). You dont have to worry about grinding on the stub to get it to fit right. You also have a spare 30 spline stock stub since your spline count is still the same, and you can pick up a 30 spline spare hub easy since everyone is ditching them to go 35 spline. It makes the most sense to me but to each there own.
Harley
Option #2. Go 30 spline chromo stubs and keep your stock locking hubs since it will end up stronger then a 35 spline stock stub setup unless you use driveflanges. Carry a spare hub.
Option #3. 35 spline stubs and driveflanges. Driveflanges may not work well if you DD your rig or use it on the street much.
My personal opinion is I would go with #2. You upgrade the stub shaft to be as strong as a 35 spline except you don't need new locking hubs (that are weaker). You dont have to worry about grinding on the stub to get it to fit right. You also have a spare 30 spline stock stub since your spline count is still the same, and you can pick up a 30 spline spare hub easy since everyone is ditching them to go 35 spline. It makes the most sense to me but to each there own.
Harley
In regards to the original post, there are just too many variables to give a definite answer..........what terrain, how do you drive, and just good old luck!
Also keep in mind that years of use will fatigue parts. An original 1979 stubshaft that was in a farm truck for 20 years and then was wheeled hard for 4 years just isn't going to hold up like a fresh Spicer part.
In any case, the only guy I personally know (Midwest terrain = mud and slimy rocks) that broke 30-spline stubs on a regular basis was running 42" TSL's and a built big block under a fullsize truck, and that was mostly in mud. Of course the same guy broke about every other part on the truck at some point in time also. On the other side, another guy ran stock 30-spline stubs under a fullsize Dodge with a built 440 and 39.5's for several years, and then the same axle went under a 318-powered Dakota w/ 39.5's and lasted several more years before finally breaking a stub, and that was while trying to pull a very stuck fullsize Ford up a steep and rocky hill.
Also keep in mind that years of use will fatigue parts. An original 1979 stubshaft that was in a farm truck for 20 years and then was wheeled hard for 4 years just isn't going to hold up like a fresh Spicer part.
In any case, the only guy I personally know (Midwest terrain = mud and slimy rocks) that broke 30-spline stubs on a regular basis was running 42" TSL's and a built big block under a fullsize truck, and that was mostly in mud. Of course the same guy broke about every other part on the truck at some point in time also. On the other side, another guy ran stock 30-spline stubs under a fullsize Dodge with a built 440 and 39.5's for several years, and then the same axle went under a 318-powered Dakota w/ 39.5's and lasted several more years before finally breaking a stub, and that was while trying to pull a very stuck fullsize Ford up a steep and rocky hill.
surpip
1 ton status
ya i DD my rig alot so the flanges are out, im thinkin #2 is good to,
thanks alot man,
dale
thanks alot man,
dale
A friend of mine runs drive flanges and still drives his truck to and from the trail (typically 200 mile round trip). He simply pulls the slug out and slaps on a factory push on cover. It only takes him a couple of minutes to do both sides. In any case, running around with drive flanges or the hubs locked in shouldn't hurt anything.
four_by_ken
1/2 ton status
Did I miss the answer to why the 35 spline lockouts are weaker than 30 spline lockouts? Less material?
