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D60 kingpin service on jack stands

Mastiff

Mastiff

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I'm trying to rebuild my D60 knuckles before I install it. So the axle is sitting up on jack stands. I'm at the part where I need to remove the kingpin, and eventually it will need to be re-installed. I'm reading about 600 ft-lbs being required for this. Surely I'm not the first person to work on this axle off the vehicle, and without a fancy axle clamping rig. Any suggestions on how to apply that much torque to a loose axle without just pulling it all around the garage?

Also, I'm looking at 7/8" allen sockets. This one looks good enough and not crazy priced:

https://www.4wdfactory.com/store/pr..."-Hex-Wrench-{47}-Socket,-Upper-King-Pin-Tool

But this one is dirt cheap:

http://www.amazon.com/Titan-15668-D...d=1377918280&sr=8-1&keywords=7/8+allen+socket

Anyone used the second one successfully? With an air gun?
 
Hate to ask the obvious question, but why would you remove them if you're going to reinstall them. It sounds like you're putting the same ones back in, in which case, I wouldn't bother.

If you are in fact replacing them, get a piece about 4"x12" and cut a hole in it on one end. Then put the kingpin through the hole and weld the plate to the kingpin. Now go get that BFH and swing away on the long end of the plate until it loosens.

As far as tools go, the giant allen wrench is pretty much the standard.
 
rebelgregory said:
Hate to ask the obvious question, but why would you remove them if you're going to reinstall them. It sounds like you're putting the same ones back in, in which case, I wouldn't bother.

If you are in fact replacing them, get a piece about 4"x12" and cut a hole in it on one end. Then put the kingpin through the hole and weld the plate to the kingpin. Now go get that BFH and swing away on the long end of the plate until it loosens.
Click to expand...

Exactly and then the cheap one would be more than enough to tighten the new one.
 
Good questions. This is my first time doing this. If I can get the knuckle off with the kingpin on, I'll leave it. I take it this is possible once the bottom part is disassembled. My original question was how to hold the axle still while applying huge torque but maybe it doesn't matter.
 
Don't replace the kingpins unless you have to. There's some good threads on here with pics of what 'good' and 'bad' look like.

Pick up on bottom of knuckle with a jack and slowly remove steering arm/dust cover that retain the spring and bushing. Once you empty out the upper knuckle so that just the kingpin is left, remove the jack and remove the bottom pivot shaft. The bearing will be retained in the axle C. Once the shaft is out, pull the bottom of the knuckle outward until it clears the axle C and then just lift it off of the kingpin. Too easy, once you do it once.
 
The lug nut off wheel fits right into hole and you can use a 7/8 wrench or impact socket atleast that what I did some years back
 
With a cut off wheel, cut through the kingpin about 1/16 above the bearing surface of the kingpin where it contacts the mating part it's screwed into, about 1/2 to 3/4 way through the kingpin diameter itself. That will relieve a fair amount of torque pressue off the kingpin and is should come off fairly easily with a 7/8 allen key or lug nut and wrench or however you then want to drive it off with. Make sure you soak it with penatrant for a few good days before hand though. That will help a great deal too. If you just try and use a long 8' cheater bar and leverage that axle will move all over the place and there's no way in hell your going to get it off. Just relieve the torque pressure off the kingpin and it will be easy to get out.
 
I've heard of people using the Allen stock with a socket and breaker bar and then attaching a come along to the bar and the axle so its pulling on itself.
 
Here are some pics of my kingpin. Doesn't look worn to my untrained eye, what do you think?

20130908_081824.jpg


20130908_081842.jpg


20130908_081901.jpg
 
prob be just fine if you don't wana change it .

but I am one of those guys if I am in there that far might as well.
 
I would definitely take them off, since I'll probably buy a kit with new ones anyway, but I'm unsure how I would torque the new ones too 600 ft-lbs with the axle off the truck.
 
Mastiff said:
I would definitely take them off, since I'll probably buy a kit with new ones anyway, but I'm unsure how I would torque the new ones too 600 ft-lbs with the axle off the truck.
Click to expand...

A 100lb weight on a 6 foot cheater bar will work.
 
Mastiff said:
It's the off the truck part I'm concerned about. The axle will just rotate around sitting on jack stands.
Click to expand...

Yea, that can be tricky, but I just used a heavy friend to sit on the other side while I torqued it down. Just lay it down so the cheater bar tightens when you sit on it, don't try to torque it left to right or it just spins around even with a heavy guy sitting on it.
 
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