CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

D60 repair(where the studs screw into housing)

desertrat67

Hawk Driver
Joined
Jul 5, 2001
Posts
3,978
Reaction score
77
Location
Dumfries, VA
Has any one had to do this? I am talking about where the two studs for the pass side spring go. Both of the holes are stripped out beyond being able to use a tap. I know it is a 5/8"-11 thread. HAs anyone has success with a helicoil kit and if so, where did you get the kit or did you have a shop do it for you? Thanks,

ryan
 
I drilled and taped both holes 3/4-10 and made step studs , 3/4-10 on one end and 5/8-11 on the other. Never have to cross thread those bolts trying to get them lined up, studs actually help the install procedure. I would also recommend Loctite on the big end and anti-seize on the small. If you screw one up just put a little heat on it and back it out with a stud extractor or a set of Vise grips.

Jeff
 
Both of mine were damaged when i got my axle but once i tore the axle apart i brought it to a friend of mine who stuck it in his CNC mill and bored the holes out and made some threaded bushings and then pinned them in once done. I've been running this axle for about 4 years now with no problems.
 
a lath and some time and nice streangth steel.

one end is cut with the 3/4 threads and then it is cut down to the 5/8 threads and when the studs are installed the bigger end sits flush to the main case of the axle.

my atv thats a stock race bike has them. 10 mm base 8 mm tops. the factory did this to solve the pull out issue thay had with the high compression in them.
 
step studs are the best way, but i have seen several peoplke around here make a new bigger spring plate, notch the webbing on the bottom of the axle, & get a big @ss u bolt to use w/ the new spring plate. it seems to hold up pretty good.

i prefer the step studs though.
 
if you are going to have studs made i asked my machinest friend who builds over head lift cranes up to 300 ton capacity about what steel to use. he said 10-18 cold rold would be just fine. it is just above a grd 5 spec for strength and the stock dana 60 bolts are grd 5 spec.
 
Yep, thats what I made mine out of.

Actually the easiest way to do it is to get a couple 3/4-10 x 6" bolts in grade 5 or 8 then part off the head and turn down the remaining O.D for the major dia. of a 5/8-11. Then chase the 5/8 thread on the last 1.5" or so, depending on the thickness of your leaf pack. I run Alcan 11 leaf packs in front , they are like 3.5" thick so a 6" bolt would be perfect.

Make sure the where the turn job stops and the 3/4-10 thread starts you use the largest corner radi. possible , sharp corners are a no-no!

Jeff
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom