What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

D60 Steering block issues

gone huntin

gone huntin

1/2 ton status
 Premium
GMOTM Winner
Joined
Oct 25, 2004
Posts
1,801
Reaction score
48
Location
Coldwater, MS
I can't keep the steering block tight under the steering arm on my D60. I bought it new and put it on when I installed the D60 last month. It came with new studs and nuts, but the nuts are not conical shaped like the factory ones. I've driven it about 20 miles and it's loose again. I torqued the nuts to 100ft/lb like I was told to. It moves back and forth at the knuckle, not at the arm on top of the block. Any suggestions other than crossover? I don't have the extra money for that right now.
 
Do you have a gasket between the block and the knucke?

Between the block and the arm?

How about paint in the same places?

These surfaces should be clean dry steel with nothing between them.

Must have conical nuts. 1/2" x 20tpi, usually lug nuts will do the trick.
 
blocks suck.

you didnt use the search button and find with a 60 the best option is a drop pitman arm. and if need more stock dodge arm from axle and retapered on top for gm use. dodge arm sitts higher.
 
I didn't put any gasket or anything between them. Thanks for the heads up on the lug nuts. I did search, but didn't come up with anything on this issue. I used "steering block" as my search. I haven't seen a drop pitman arm for our trucks with the 4wd box. I'll have to look into that.
 
thay make them. just not as popular. around 100-120 new these days i think. used thay hold good resale value in the 75-90 range .

and finding the dodge arm is a bit fun sometimes. and then modify it to fit the tierod on top like gm is few more bucks. but if dead seat on push-pull steering like me on my plow truck cause the HUGE fisher plow frame mounts dont let me do crossover then thats what ya got ta do.

and i even did the block years ago before i was on this site. didnt last long for me. kept comin loose. ditched it and got droped arm and perfect. only does about 4" of correction tho.

here is 1ton frame/drop pitman arm/gm stock arm on 60/4" hd ??? brand springs.

and pic of a dodge arm you can see its up high . and in my first pic of gm arm its down low.

1ton drag link setup 001.jpg

dodge 60 arm.jpg
 
Last edited:
dyna trac back in the day sold me 4 washers. for the dana 60 stuff. way before i found this place and all its info wisdom.
 
I have a dropped draglink on my truck and with the exception of being a pain to center the steering wheel I cannot tell a difference . So why do they suck?
 
4X4HIGH said:
You sure about that? Every D60 i've seen just uses tapered nuts to hold the steering arm on NOT conical washers like a D44 or 10 bolt axle.
Click to expand...

My bad, I confused myself because we do actually use conical washers with our steering blocks. Typically it is just a tapered nut which serves the same purpose.

Regardless, it needs to be a tapered fastener.
 
I'm gonna try the lug nuts like Kert said and I've bid on a Dodge steering arm too. I want to go crossover, just can't swing $4-500 right now.
 
77_Jimmy said:
I have a dropped draglink on my truck and with the exception of being a pain to center the steering wheel I cannot tell a difference . So why do they suck?
Click to expand...

All they do is help keep the ends from binding. The geometry still sucks.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom