might as well wait to coat the floor till the qrter is done IMO.. just leave it green...
CK5
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Dabomb's 1985 Jimmy - Rust Repair/Floor Replacement/Upgrades: TPI Swap
- Thread starter dabomb6608
- Start date
I've contemplated that. Its what spawned my question on if I could wait a while to do the coating.
That would give me an extra 125ish dollars towards a quarter....
Anybody have one for sale? Or know of someone who has one they would sell? Maybe both sides if the price is right
If I can find a deal on a quarter/quarters I will take it. Might as well shop around before I just go out buying the RockAuto or Classic Industries one.
I would just wait.. don't even prep it.. prep it after the qrter is done...
question.. since your doing a qrter, what are your plans for exterior primer/paint materials?
question.. since your doing a qrter, what are your plans for exterior primer/paint materials?
Ummm....yeah that stuff.....
I at least have a round about color picked out
Seriously though. I don't plan on it being a show paint job by any means. So I'm not expecting perfectly smooth body lines or that kindve thing. I painted the TA back a couple years ago. It turned out decent for a single stage Summit Racing Brand paint. Was my first paint job and first time at body work. Should've atleast added a clear coat looking back. And done more primer/base coat. It's pretty thin coats.
So saying that. I would have to look back on what primer I used. The primer was a recommended primer I got at Oreilly's. Can't remember who recommended it. Maybe someone over on thirdgen....Can't even remember the brand. I'm really not that upset with the quality of the Summit Paint that I used. It just needed to be thicker and would've looked great with a clear coat. I also rushed on the buffing big time. It needed more time to harden/set up.
was the primer a 2-part?
Real quick before I head out to the gym then home to work on the truck some. Here is a before and after shot of the TA.
The after shot was less then a year ago. So the paint was around 1.5-2 years old when it was taken.
And yes Paul it was.
The after shot was less then a year ago. So the paint was around 1.5-2 years old when it was taken.
And yes Paul it was.
looks good... epoxy or urethane primer?
my .02.... I would suggest going with some nason 2k uro (that's the tan I use).. it's about as cheap as it get's for a 2 part primer.. gal kit (makes 1.25 gal) is about $125 a kit...
than when you do the qrter, prime it, and a quickie on the floor.. than trim out your jambs, and bedliner.. or just bedline if your not ready to buy exterior paint...
it's just such a tougher undercoat under the bedliner, than just the zinc..
just a suggestion....
my .02.... I would suggest going with some nason 2k uro (that's the tan I use).. it's about as cheap as it get's for a 2 part primer.. gal kit (makes 1.25 gal) is about $125 a kit...
than when you do the qrter, prime it, and a quickie on the floor.. than trim out your jambs, and bedliner.. or just bedline if your not ready to buy exterior paint...
it's just such a tougher undercoat under the bedliner, than just the zinc..
just a suggestion....
looks good... epoxy or urethane primer?
my .02.... I would suggest going with some nason 2k uro (that's the tan I use).. it's about as cheap as it get's for a 2 part primer.. gal kit (makes 1.25 gal) is about $125 a kit...
than when you do the qrter, prime it, and a quickie on the floor.. than trim out your jambs, and bedliner.. or just bedline if your not ready to buy exterior paint...
it's just such a tougher undercoat under the bedliner, than just the zinc..
just a suggestion....
Suggestion taken. I "might as well" spray the floor with the primer too.
I can not find the primer that I got from Oreillys anywhere on their site. And I am almost positive it was all used and can thrown out. That was 2 houses ago when I painted it. So even if I had some left over I wouldn't have a clue where to find it now.
I want to say it was urethane though....fairly positive
it would be dead at this point more than likely anyway..
tho epoxy is often highly touted by the unknowing masses, and has come a long way in it's user-friendliness (I actually use it very often on the boat paint jobs), I still find the urethane primers their equivalent, and more sandable/workable for sheetmetal bodywork..
the reason I brought that up is because, epoxy and zinc chromate don't play together particularly well... not a guaranteed fail or anything.. but there have been known to be adhesion issues..
tho epoxy is often highly touted by the unknowing masses, and has come a long way in it's user-friendliness (I actually use it very often on the boat paint jobs), I still find the urethane primers their equivalent, and more sandable/workable for sheetmetal bodywork..
the reason I brought that up is because, epoxy and zinc chromate don't play together particularly well... not a guaranteed fail or anything.. but there have been known to be adhesion issues..
I see. Good looking out!
http://www.ebay.com/itm/Nason-Selec...12008&pt=Motors_Automotive_Tools&var=&vxp=mtr
Any difference in color other then just the colors?
One question about the new quarter, possibly both cause I might've convinced myself to do both
, do I need to do anything between to the new sheetmetal before the 2k primer other then a quick sand/scuff? I know they have that black coating from factory. E something something coating....drawing a blank
EDP... electrically deposited primer.... the EDP is fine.... just sand the whole panel with like 180 to 220 on a DA... spot a bit of green over any bare metal spots.. than overcoat with uro...
just the color is the only dif on the 2k which is a coverage thing depending on topcoat color.. that's a pretty damn good price.. I pay more from my dude...
just the color is the only dif on the 2k which is a coverage thing depending on topcoat color.. that's a pretty damn good price.. I pay more from my dude...
EDP... electrically deposited primer.... the EDP is fine.... just sand the whole panel with like 180 to 220 on a DA... spot a bit of green over any bare metal spots.. than overcoat with uro...
just the color is the only dif on the 2k which is a coverage thing depending on topcoat color.. that's a pretty damn good price.. I pay more from my dude...
Sounds like a plan then. I think grey would be better for a slightly dark blue top coat.
And yep that's why I posted the link, was a little leery. I thought to myself, man that's cheaper then what Paul said he got his for...something must be wrong because of anyone he should be getting great prices through hookups at the Marina and such.
in that case, not really... it's an automotive product really, and my marina really doesn't save much when I deal with Kemperle body supply... it's more my personal account.. we rarely buy stuff from them for the marina... occasionally some paint for Formula hulls or Hateras..
our marine dizzy's, yeah, good discounts on Awl Grip, etc....
and yeah, grays the better choice for a darker blue...
our marine dizzy's, yeah, good discounts on Awl Grip, etc....
and yeah, grays the better choice for a darker blue...
Makes since to me.
Looks like without any discounts getting the two quarters the total comes to a little over $900. That would be a while before I could cough that up. But if the promos that they run take off a decent amount with the "free shipping and 15%" discount then I might be able too. I doubt the "free shipping" works with a freight shipped item but doesn't hurt to try. Shipping alone was $280...
This is from Classic Industries
Looks like without any discounts getting the two quarters the total comes to a little over $900. That would be a while before I could cough that up. But if the promos that they run take off a decent amount with the "free shipping and 15%" discount then I might be able too. I doubt the "free shipping" works with a freight shipped item but doesn't hurt to try. Shipping alone was $280...
This is from Classic Industries
Well I'm on the road to Gatlinburg. No progress coming this weekend. Not much I can really do until I go and buy my quarter panel. I might be throwing the top back on it and starting on my Trans Am to get the transmission in it.
Haven't decided what I want to do. I can't afford to get the stuff to do the quarters for a month or so. And I have most everything ready to do the transmission in the TA.
Haven't decided what I want to do. I can't afford to get the stuff to do the quarters for a month or so. And I have most everything ready to do the transmission in the TA.
patience, son, patience... I know it's hard, trust me, I know...
I'm one to have very little patience. I guess I need to learn to get some if I'm going to survive this route I've started with the truck.
not having it, costs money in the end.. 
go play with the hotrod.. the K5 will still luv you when you get back to it...
go play with the hotrod.. the K5 will still luv you when you get back to it...
Ain't that the truth.
Would anyone be interested in thread for the car? Or just add a few pictures here and there in here? A lot of the build on the car is complete. Motor will keep me happy for a few years I think. I just needed to upgrade from the way too weak stock 5 speed.
Would anyone be interested in thread for the car? Or just add a few pictures here and there in here? A lot of the build on the car is complete. Motor will keep me happy for a few years I think. I just needed to upgrade from the way too weak stock 5 speed.
start a thread in "other rides"
