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Dabomb's 1985 Jimmy - Rust Repair/Floor Replacement/Upgrades: TPI Swap

Had a long weekend of wrenching on the truck, made great progress! Hope to turn the key this weekend if everything works out and I don't wait forever for things to get shipped.

First off, poser shot of the intake in place. Cause it looks so good sitting in there!:bow:



Here is a breakdown of what went down.

Got the wiring finished after installing the lower intake and mocking up the harness in the truck to get routing figured out. Even the underdash connections to the VSS, TCC Brake Switch, ECM Ground, Gear Selector, Fuel Pump, ECM 12V. I found my multimeter and was able to test the gear selector that me and Jess were talking about above. It does indeed work as I had hoped. So I hooked one terminal to ground and the other to my P/N wire from the ECM that now has ground supplied when in Park and Neutral.











With the wiring finished I moved on to getting the distributor dropped in.

Then I moved on to getting the new fuel pickup dropping in my tank. Brainstormed my fuel line options and came up with a pretty simple solution I think for under the tank and at the fuel rail.

I had left over stock TPI fuel hoses/hard lines that go from stock Camaro/Firebird subframes under the brake booster up to the fuel rail. The hoses have female 16mm & 14mm fittings on them. These are the same fittings that are at the end of the fuel rail. The hard lines have the male fittings of those sizes.

From the fuel rail I was able to bend the smaller 5/16th (14mm) hardline to go down and towards the passenger side frame rail. I wasn't able to get the 3/8th (16mm) feed line bent without it wanting to kink. So I will cut it and run hose following the same path as the return. I will then cut the end off the return hard line and run hose to the stock hard line already on the truck. That takes care of the fuel rail connections.

Back at the tank I will use the stock TPI hose that I referred to above to connect to the sending unit since it has the same male fittings that match up to the female fittings on the hoses. From there I bought Dorman repair sections of hard lines that have the male 16mm and 14mm fittings on one end and then are bare line on the other end. I will attach to the hose and make a loop above the tank going straight into the existing hard lines on the truck. Possibly installing my fuel filter somewhere in that area that has easy access.

You can see the stock hoses and dorman repair section here from when I tested the pump and pumped out some of the fuel that was in the tank. It was slightly heavy. :whistle:



I began installing the rest of the intake last night before I went in for the evening.



This morning I ordered my fuel filter, oil pressure switch, and knock sensor. I still yet need to order a o2 sensor bung, the heated o2 sensor, and maybe a IAC.

To do list includes:

1. Finish installing intake.

2. Finish fuel system.

3. Install oil pressure sensor.

4. Install knock sensor.

5. Weld in bung and install o2 sensor.

6. Replace water pump that I noticed last night was really wobbly due to bad bearings.

7. Figure out upper radiator hose options.

8. Wire in a add on fuse group to get 12v to 4 wires under the dash.

9. Fill back up with coolant.

10. Prime fuel system checking for leaks.

11. Get EBL ECM out of Trans Am and hook it up to the harness. Program in tune.

12. Cross fingers, say a prayer, review if I missed anything and turn the key!
 
I would love to. It's in the plan for the future. Haven't found a setup local and shipping kills any decent deal I find online. I would get the same setup that I put on my Trans Am. It was off of a 89' Camaro some guy was stripping for a drag car. Stole the whole setup for like $40. But I helped with the removal.

I am talking to a guy local that has a set of front seats out of an 01 Silverado extended cab. The 40/20/40 style with center console/seat. Waiting to get some pictures. They are the first seats in that style that I've found close to me in a long time. Hope I can talk him down on his asking price some.
 
Planning after work on getting my fuel hose along with water pump gaskets to put on my old water pump from when I had v-belt on the Trans Am. Also getting my add on fuse box to wire up the last 4 wires under the dash.

Tonight I hope to finish the fuel system and get the tank reinstalled. With that out of the way I will go ahead and get the rest of the intake installed and everything hooked up. If I have time I will wire those 12v sources in under the dash.

Technically that could put me in the position to start the truck without the water pump/alternator belt installed to see if it will fire. :woot: I don't "need" a oil pressure switch, knock sensor, or o2 sensor to be able to run it for a few seconds. :whistle:
 
I have a question for the masses.

I'm looking at a set of front 40/20/40 seats out of a 01 Silverado Extended Cab. The truck got rolled/totaled and is getting parted out. Anyways here is a shot of them.

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What kind of price do these go for? They look to be in great condition. And are a color I like. Only 30mins away as well. Which finding seats in this area that match that style is slim to none. I don't want these to slip through my fingers.

The guy is asking $400. I was thinking $300-350 at the highest. From what I have seen on eBay I think that is in line with similar seats. They go for $500-$1000 (depending on leather/electric/etc) after shipping is all said and done.

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Surprise!

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I like em! :woot:

I just have them sitting in place, haven't bolted them in yet. I will come up with a way to reinforce the floor since the belts are built in.

More good news, didn't even realize this weekend was Easter weekend. :doah: I have all day/night tomorrow off work. And no other plans for that night. So that means its wrenching time all day tomorrow! Going to finish up the rest of the fuel system, get the tank reinstalled, get the intake bolted up, finish up the 12v wiring and possibly attempt to start it up.:popcorn:

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I think so too, sat in the drivers seat with them just sitting in place. Comfy as heck! Loads better then the drivers seat that had a horrible right rear lean going on. :haha:

I've wanted to upgrade to new seats for several years. Never had the money or did I ever find a set local all at the same time. The planets must've been inline this week. So ready to get to wrenching tomorrow morning. :saweet:
 
It went Vroom!

TPI swap: Great success! (spoke in Borat voice) :haha:

She went vroom Saturday afternoon!

I think this will work? Clickie on picture...



This was before setting the timing or doing any other changes. It started right up first try. Couldn't believe it! It ran even smoother once timing was set.

So I let it get up to temp and made sure no leaks or anything was wrong and decided to clean everything up and get it out of the garage for a quick test drive. Doesn't have a hood, drivers door, top, rear bumper, or bolted down seats but I live on a back road so it wasn't a huge concern. I just went about 1/2 mile down the road and back. Seemed to be very strong.

Some things that need done. I need to get a new TV Cable. This one is just shy of being long enough. It wasn't shifting right with it where it was. I also need to swap throttle cables with a spare one I have from my Trans Am. I thought the stock one would be long enough but it too is just shy of working. It can be hooked up but won't lock into place on the firewall and that is causing it to be sticky.

Aside from those issues it did great. So excited to actually start driving it. I will get those issues sorted out then work on getting the new seats mounted up.

Here is a shot of the engine once it was out of the garage.

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Thanks guys. It does seem like it went quicker then I expected. The hardest part I think was the fuel system. I hate bending lines and pulling the tank. Unfortunately I think pulling the tank is in my future again. For some reason my fuel gauge is pegged past fuel. It is a new fuel sending unit so I haven't a clue what could be wrong. I am hoping it is something wrong at the gauge cluster.

On another note related to the gauge cluster...my coolant temp gauge was reading well over 210* almost to the red overheat marker once the truck warmed up. But the ECM was seeing a pretty steady 190-200* from the Coolant Temp Sensor. Which is new. I trust the ECM more then the gauge so I'm not sure what is causing this now either.
 
For some reason my fuel gauge is pegged past fuel. It is a new fuel sending unit so I haven't a clue what could be wrong. I am hoping it is something wrong at the gauge cluster.

I think that's the sender wire being open (as opposed to shorted.) Stoooopid question, in no way related to anything I've ever done four times, are you sure the sender is grounded to the frame? My new sender actually came with a black wire to ground it, but if you forget it or it gets disconnected... :doah: Also make sure the pink sender wire button hasn't popped off, as mine likes to do that.

-- A
 
My baffle sometimes spins (3 of the 4 mounts are broke) causing the fuel gauge float to sit on the top of it causing it to read 3/4 full when it is empty.
 
My tank is the original carb tank. No baffles. My sender is the TBI style. It has two wires that went to a connector for the fuel pump and fuel level. Then the separate black ground wire. If it wasn't grounded properly with that black wire I'm pretty sure the fuel pump wouldn't be grounded. I will double check that tomorrow though. I will also test resistance on the fuel sender wire on both sides of that connection and see if anything is funky. I hope it's at the cluster and not a problem in the tank. And maybe related to the false temp reading on the cluster. We will see soon enough.
 
My tank is the original carb tank. No baffles. My sender is the TBI style. It has two wires that went to a connector for the fuel pump and fuel level. Then the separate black ground wire. If it wasn't grounded properly with that black wire I'm pretty sure the fuel pump wouldn't be grounded. I will double check that tomorrow though. I will also test resistance on the fuel sender wire on both sides of that connection and see if anything is funky. I hope it's at the cluster and not a problem in the tank. And maybe related to the false temp reading on the cluster. We will see soon enough.

Yeah, if the pump is running, safe bet the ground is good. I shoulda thunk of that, my bad.

Might also be that the pink wire is chafed somewhere; I snagged mine doing something along the frame rail and had to patch it :doah:

If it is the gauge you're in for some fun (assuming factory gauges? I forget.) Those plastic circuit boards can be finicky.

-- A
 
Yeah, if the pump is running, safe bet the ground is good. I shoulda thunk of that, my bad.

Might also be that the pink wire is chafed somewhere; I snagged mine doing something along the frame rail and had to patch it :doah:

If it is the gauge you're in for some fun (assuming factory gauges? I forget.) Those plastic circuit boards can be finicky.

-- A

Hoping for a messed up wire or loose connection. But if it isn't that I hope it is a problem with the gauge over it being a problem with the brand new sending unit. :doah:
 
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