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Damned Gov-lok! Blew up another one! New rearend needed!

Mav2u

Mav2u

1/2 ton status
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May 22, 2002
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Location
Palm Bay, Florida
This is the second gov-lok that failed on me! Need something new that is better than a gov-lok but behaves the same!

I'll post pictures later. Looks like this time the case cracked and caused a grenade effect from that point on!

I hope that I can just swap out the ring an pinion set for a new one, an that the bearings for the axles didn't get damaged an ruin the race in the axle!

Anyone have a 3.73 rearend they want to sell?

gov-lok_Sideview.jpg
 
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Auburn posi...much superior to the Gov-Lock with better manners and longevity.
 
Yeah, if you don't do any major off road or crawling a posi is perfect for your application. You could also look into the True Trac. It's a gear type posi with no clutches/cones to wear out. Absolutely silent operation and no special additives to the gear oil. I used one in a Camaro I built and loved it.

On the rear rebuild topic, plan on buying new carrier bearings. Sometimes they don't like to be removed from the old carrier. Same with the pinion bearing that gets pressed on to the pinion gear. So, just buy a bearing/install kit with the new gears...
 
Okay I know you are only running 32s right, so how about instead of a different LS or a selectable locker a 6 lug 14 b semifloat.

I have found a couple around here with gov locks ( much stronger than a 10 bolt gov lok) and 3.73 gears for 250-300. I know they take a little work to put in, new spring perches, shock mounts probably new u bolts and top plates too.

Just something to throw out there
 
Yeah, I don't think I need the trouble of putting in a 14 bolt. 12 bolt 6 lug would be okay. The largest tire I plan on installing in the truck is the next set of tires which will be 33's.

But money right now is super tight! I just put the lift on the truck.

I'm hoping that I can just throw out the carrier, ring, an pinion. Since the are all damaged from the carrier cracking apart!

If I could find a full axle or a whole carrier with ring an pinion for cheap it would help greatly!

What year rears will fit my truck? Will newer rears fit also? What other vehicles can I find to pull a rear out of! What would be cool is if a newer truck with disc brakes could be used but I'm sure they are not the right fit!
 
Well, that's where you have to decide where to spend the money.

A new ring and pinion set, bearing kit, and new carrier (posi, locker, true trac) could very easily run 5-600 in a best case scenario.

If money is a deciding factor, I'd definitely be looking for a 6 lug 14b semi float 3.73 rear out of an 88-98 IFS truck. They can be found from 1-300 and all you need to do is cut off the spring perches and shock mounts and weld on new ones. New spring perches and shock mounts are cheap. This is one of those RARE cases where it can be cheaper to upgrade rather than fix what you have. You should definitely take advantage.
 
I can see the appeal of doing that by getting a cheap 14 bolt an then welding on the perches again. I would have to pay my welder to do it. I suppose even getting a disc brake rear might be possible which would be awesome!

My ten bolt should hold up fine just the gov-lok is the weak link. If the axle is still good I would rather just repair it with a better limited slip. I only plan on running 33's as the largest size tires.

But what is a decent priced limited slip to use that is stronger than a gov-lok? Behaves like a gov-lok does or better.

What are a good priced set of ring an pinion to buy? Yukon a good brand still? I used them in the front axle when I rebuilt it last time.

Is there anything out there that I can get a step by step for doing my own rearend setup? I know I could do it if I had a step by step guide. I already have the idea of it, I just don't know how to use the dial indicator to read the settings an then shim accordingly to get the pattern I need for correct setup!
 
The closest would be the Detroit Truetrac and it will cost you 419.00 from Summit Racing and doubtful you'll find it any cheaper elsewhere unless you find someone selling a used one. No matter what you do you need to first pull your axles and make sure of the spline count as GM change from 28 spline to 30 spline starting in 1989 and it's a gamble which spline count you have unless you check 100% for sure.
 
4X4HIGH said:
The closest would be the Detroit Truetrac and it will cost you 419.00 from Summit Racing and doubtful you'll find it any cheaper elsewhere unless you find someone selling a used one.
Click to expand...

Hyjack selling post :)
I have a brand new Truetrac for my D44 front. If it works for your rear 10bolt I'll sell it for a great price. Not sure I'm going to use it now, since I scored the D60. Rather sell it while it's still new. :dunno:
 
O well, and I think it's a 30.

I've never used a truetrac so I can only vote Eaton. I love mine in the rear of my s10, it's worked great on a DD for over 70k miles.
 
I have a factory looking clutch type posi in my blazer I am removing this week its 30 spline pm me if your interested I will sell it cheap
 
I would need a 28 spline as I have changed the rear out from the 30 spline I had before as it broke a long time ago.

Trying now to call around to salvage yards in Florida to find another 3.73 rear end that will work in my truck as a straight drop in.

Otherwise I might just order a custom rebuilt one from Boyce Equipment again with a better differential installed than the stupid gov-lok. Although it won't be cheap an I'll have to borrow some cash to do it! Hate to do that but need the truck on the road fairly soon!
 
way to much money to toss in the burn barrel with boyce equipment stuff and other reman ideas .

you have proven you cant hold a 10 bolt under it. and a 12 bolt not much better with tiny bit bigger ring gear and if i recall smaller pinion bearings.

like said find a 6 lug semi float 14 bolt and its basicly bolt in and just need spring perches and shock tabs .

much better option and cheeper and last longer in the end.
 
It's not the ten bolt that is the problem, it is the gov-lok this time that cracked. It was a used unit that went in there last time when I got this axle. So the gov-lok is the weak point this time around.

My only concern with the 14 bolt is the re-welding the spring perches an shock mounts! I have no shop around here that I know of that I can trust to get the welding done correctly an accurately. I have a local welder but he is not a gear head welder, just a repair what you broke welder, or weld what you give him setup welder. He could know how to do it but I'm not sure!

I also don't want 8 lug rims. I like my custom billet rims an don't want to invest in a new set of rims an tires.

Now the 6 lug semi-float 14 bolt seem okay but again the welding custom work needed is a bit of a problem at this point. If it was a straight bolt up I would be all over it. A 12 bolt axle would be nice but they are harder to find.

I just need the rig back on the road in the fastest an cheapest way possible. I had always thought about upgrading the axles but I drive almost all pavement with towing occasionally right now so bigger axles isn't high on the to do list. Once I put the new 33" tires on I will be looking a little more into beefing up the axles since I just put my 3" suspension lift on the truck. I don't wish to go larger than 33" tires so a 10 bolt shouldn't have a problem holding up! This time the gov-lok seemed to be the week link which it is always known to be the weakest point in the 10 bolts since day one.
 
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