CK5
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Dana 44 hubs?

read your directions the mile marker hubs say not to put grease in them but if you do wheel bearing grease
 
their old hubs I don't have any instruction papers but No grease that's what I'm seeing on google so it has to be the heat coming from the brakes.. I put new pads on when I did the frontbencher swap and for some reason the pedal almost touches the floor and she a little hard to stop
 
I see said the blind man, bleed your brakes please. Make sure you have good vaccum sorce for booster
 
Also, check the adjustment of your rear brakes. Other than air in the lines, the most common cause for low pedal in a disk/drum setup, is out of adjustment rear drums.
 
They were working perfectly before I got new brakes on.. the rear seemed to work well also. Now every time I go down the hill I'm stepping on them and burning them up
 
Did you resurface the rotors also when installing new pads.
The rotors can glaze up, new pads don't always seat and grab properly.
You didn't break into the system otherwise?
Did you get grease on the rotor surfaces?
 
Did you resurface the rotors also when installing new pads.
The rotors can glaze up, new pads don't always seat and grab properly.
You didn't break into the system otherwise?
Did you get grease on the rotor surfaces?


There was a lot of rust on the rotors when I put them on and there possibly could have been grease but I was to eager to get it going :burnout:
 
If the clicking and heat only happen with the hubs locked, as stated above, than it shouldn't be the wheel bearings. The heat and clicking may or may not be from the same thing. For the clicking I would check for anything loose inside the locking hub, than go to the spindle bearings, axle shaft u-joints, and even check out the driveshaft u-joints. I had the CV joint (transfer case end) of the drive shaft that would click under light loads or running with the hubs locked but not in 4wd, but it wouldn't make any noise under load. Seems pretty common for the spindle bearings to be neglected on these rigs as they often get overlooked when repacking the wheel bearings. They fall apart and the axleshaft turning makes the noise.

For grease on the actual locking hubs I use regular wheel bearing grease but only a really light coat....put a little on my finger and lightly smear some around. If you pack a locking hub full of grease they usually won't work very well.
 
If the clicking and heat only happen with the hubs locked, as stated above, than it shouldn't be the wheel bearings. The heat and clicking may or may not be from the same thing. For the clicking I would check for anything loose inside the locking hub, than go to the spindle bearings, axle shaft u-joints, and even check out the driveshaft u-joints. I had the CV joint (transfer case end) of the drive shaft that would click under light loads or running with the hubs locked but not in 4wd, but it wouldn't make any noise under load. Seems pretty common for the spindle bearings to be neglected on these rigs as they often get overlooked when repacking the wheel bearings. They fall apart and the axleshaft turning makes the noise.

For grease on the actual locking hubs I use regular wheel bearing grease but only a really light coat....put a little on my finger and lightly smear some around. If you pack a locking hub full of grease they usually won't work very well.


I took the hub apart and it was the left hub that was damaged so fixed the click sounf
 
I never use grease in my hubs. All I do is bathe the parts in 90 WT and install them.

Grease freezes at the winter temps here and the hubs won't engage when I want them.

But when I lived in SoCal I used CV joint grease, as it's extremely heat resistant and stays where you put it.

Thanks for reminding me of this though, since I feel a spot of resistance in the steering just off high-center in both directions and I bet it's a ball joint.
 
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