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Dana 60 & 14 Bolt Carrier Replacement Help/Ideas Needed

ZombieK5

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I have tried to look over the postings in this forum for information regarding rebuilding Axles. I have a Dana 60 and 14 Bolt. I am replacing each axle width Eaton TrueTrac differentials. Any shortcuts, do's and don'ts, shortcuts or horror stories are welcome.

I do not have a case spreader for the Dana 60 so I'm looking for ideas, other than the obvious rubber mallet method, for getting the proper shim adjustments. I will be making set up bearings and set up races. I've watched all the YouTube videos I could find.

I'm sure some of the people on this board have methods that make this job much easier than it would normally be.

Suggestions on how to secure the differential when torquing the ring gear bolts??

Suggestions on setting the Dana 60 preload?

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You shouldn’t need a case spreader I’ve never used one on a Dana 60, I just put the carrier in a vise to torque the ring gear bolts. Setting the preload on the pinion?
 
You shouldn’t need a case spreader I’ve never used one on a Dana 60, I just put the carrier in a vise to torque the ring gear bolts. Setting the preload on the pinion?
Spicer shows 17-30 inch pounds preload. Was looking for "best practices" to get the preload from ppl that know shortcuts and workarounds...

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If you do it a lot you’ll get the “feel” for it, I like to use the shims that came out of it when I take it apart as a rough guide going back together….I just feel for a light drag, just remember setting up gears isn’t as tough as some people make it out to be, really just trial and error but I’ve usually found that if I start with what the factory had there it’ll get you close enough to make some minor adjustments and be good to go
 
Google dana 60 bible and 14 bolt bible by billavista
Awesome collection of information
 
If you do it a lot you’ll get the “feel” for it, I like to use the shims that came out of it when I take it apart as a rough guide going back together….I just feel for a light drag, just remember setting up gears isn’t as tough as some people make it out to be, really just trial and error but I’ve usually found that if I start with what the factory had there it’ll get you close enough to make some minor adjustments and be good to go
What I found to be really weird was that there were nine shims on one side of the carrier and only one shim on the opposite. The ring gear had its own thick metal spacer, maybe an eighth of an inch.
 
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Just use the new races, only have to make setup bearings, not races too.
Some places sell setup bearings. May be worth it. It took me about 2 hours of constant reaming with a sand paper flapper bit in a drill to get mine right.
PITA.
I made my own case spreader. I can take pics of it if your interested in making your own.
Only used a couple pieces of flat stock, 4 pipe nipples and some all thread.

The 14b is simple. Total walk in the park compared to the 60 in my opinion.

A lot of guys ditch the crush sleeve on the 60 pinion and go with a spacer/shim kit (crush sleeve eliminator).

Others may have done it with success, but I heard and read from many places DONT USE AN IMPACT TO PUT THE PINION NUT ON.
they say it can ruin the new bearings with the vibrations.
 
I started with the 14 bolt as it was the easier axle to do (my first time doing gears as well, on my back, in the truck, that was fun...)

As long as you get the measurements right and post up pictures here of your pattern, you should be fine.
 
You shouldn’t need a case spreader I’ve never used one on a Dana 60, I just put the carrier in a vise to torque the ring gear bolts. Setting the preload on the pinion?
Some people do not like to use case spreaders because if you spread the case too far it will not spring back into shape, and the case is ruined.
 
Yes if you use the case spreader, .015" is max movement to spread case.
I use an inch pd bender bar torque wrench to set pinion pre load. Get 1 with 3/8 drive, if you can, less adapters for the big sockets.
Set up bearing are great make set up much easier.
Sound to me that these gear set ups are not factory. Since the ring gear is shimmed the ratio is wrong for the carrier split and they didn't use the wide set.
Since you are replacing carriers, you can match carrier split with your preferred ratio.
Don't forget to change the axle seals in the Dana. I use some all thread, nuts and big flat washers to install the new seals.
 
I haven’t seen any older Dana 60s that use crush sleeves on the pinion? Newer Dodge and Fords do but that was with the switch to ball joint 60s
 
Yes if you use the case spreader, .015" is max movement to spread case.
I use an inch pd bender bar torque wrench to set pinion pre load. Get 1 with 3/8 drive, if you can, less adapters for the big sockets.
Set up bearing are great make set up much easier.
Sound to me that these gear set ups are not factory. Since the ring gear is shimmed the ratio is wrong for the carrier split and they didn't use the wide set.
Since you are replacing carriers, you can match carrier split with your preferred ratio.
Don't forget to change the axle seals in the Dana. I use some all thread, nuts and big flat washers to install the new seals.
I agree, it sounds like instead of using the correct carrier or a “thick” ring gear they spaced it over
 
from what i can see in the pic of the box thats not a true trac ...... thats a std ol posi style unit with clutches to wear out .

a true trac uses helical cut gears and no clutches . so unless you miss spoke or ordered wrong you got wrong parts .
 
No he's got a truetrac. Look at the unit it's self you can see the gears
 
The box is a posi, I don't see six bolts on side.
 
Top right one you can see the angle of the teeth.

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I like the axle cradle adapter for the engine stand.
 
Oh there a bit different than my 12bolt in the 2wd project in the looks department then .

And now i think i recall eaton advertises each model on each box face . .
 

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