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dana 60 always have lock ring for wheel bearings?

xpndbl3

1/2 ton status
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Jul 30, 2005
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orland park, IL
Just pulled the hubs off my suburbans' dana 60 swapped front axle and saw that there was only one lock ring holding the wheel bearings in place. I pulled it because there was a clunking sound and some play in the wheel. I tighten it back up but was pretty sure it should have that other middle piece and an outer ring to tighten with the 6 point giant socket looking piece like my old 10 bolt front had.


If it's needed who sells those lock ring kits and what dana 60 socket do I need for the 6 prong style, since I only have the 4 prong one. :doah:

axle is from a 1985 1 ton if that matters...?
 
you can use a 14ff socket on the 6 tab units.

and can convert to 4 tab nuts on the 60 that had 6 from factory.

4 tab has washer/holes for middle lock.

6 tab had bend over washer tab lock.

and dana 60 and 14ff use same thread/size spindles for nut swaping.

local stores prob wont have. but if you go junk yard lookin dont forget ford dana 50 ttb 3/4 ton front is dana 60 outer parts . good source for locking hubs and spindle nuts.
 
The outer nut is the one that gets torqued down really hard. The inner is just until you slightly preload the bearing.

I much prefer the locknut setup that the later 14 bolts use. Its one 6 prong nut, and a woodruff key to lock it. Then there's a ring that sits in the spindle threads that prevents the key from backing out. I grabbed a set of a 14 bolt at the junkyard and now have them on my 60 also, which also allows me to just carry the one hub socket.
 
i'm just repeating what the book says.. i understand how to install wheel bearings and preload....
 
no sweat Paul, I didn't know that. I thought torque them till your face turns red was about right :dunno: :D


the funny thing is, I was always the same, set the preload to 50, back off 1/4, lock, than tighten the wee out of the second one.. than I checked and read that... it's the first time i didn't just go balls tight on the second one..
 
Theres actually varying torque specs on the outer nut. I have seen anywhere from the 50ft/lbs up to 200+ called out in various sources.

Prior to going stage 8 we used the 200+ torque spec. Lower torques were allowing the left side to loosen up. Right usually stayed tight.
 
The outer nut is the one that gets torqued down really hard. The inner is just until you slightly preload the bearing.

I much prefer the locknut setup that the later 14 bolts use. Its one 6 prong nut, and a woodruff key to lock it. Then there's a ring that sits in the spindle threads that prevents the key from backing out. I grabbed a set of a 14 bolt at the junkyard and now have them on my 60 also, which also allows me to just carry the one hub socket.

i just found out about this design 2 weeks ago tearing down my buddy's 14 bolt. i like the design but i would be interested to see a better key retainer, possibly just a regular spindle nut over the end.

I just bought a set at napa yesterday for 50 bucks , I can find the part # for you.



Napa # BK 6301655




http://www.napaonline.com/Catalog/CatalogItemDetail.aspx?R=BK_6301655_0281408590


and damn, $50? most i paid was $24 from ruffstuff or ECGS or something like that. then i wised up and started bring parts baggies for greasy spindle nuts at the junk yard. they're crooks around here - $10 for an ac resistor, my ass.
 

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