DPI
1/2 ton status
Are the dual rear wheel and single rear wheel front dana 60 rotors the same?
And can the rotor be turned without the hub attached?
And can the rotor be turned without the hub attached?
CK5
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Dana 60 Brake Rotor Question
- Thread starter DPI
- Start date
Rotors are different and they need to be attached to the hub before it can be machined.
DPI
1/2 ton status
Is there an easy way to tell them apart?
readymix
3/4 ton status
The difference is in the holes where the wheel studs would go.
I have it written down somewhere. I'll try to find it
I have it written down somewhere. I'll try to find it
DPI
1/2 ton status
Thanks for the help. I'll check out Pirate for the actual measurements of the lug stud hole diameters...
Why would the rotor have to be mounted? I would think it's more a question of what "accessories" the owner of the lathe has? If the shop / person has a big enough cone & cup it should center up fine. Wouldn't it be the same principal as turning a rotor for a late model truck with unitized bearings and slip off rotors?
Jason4x4
1/2 ton status
yes, but when you press the studs back in and mount it to the hub, it tends to distort it a bit, which in turn could give you a pedal vibration.
The reason it needs to be mounted on the hub is because these types of rotors are lug centric whereas the later style with a unitized bearing are hub centric.
I didn't do any research on it, but I had the rotors on my front 60 turned by themselves (not attached to the hubs) and have never had any pulsation issues...and it was done by a buddy who was a long-time GM dealership mechanic. Not saying it's wrong or right, but my experiences.
I guess I also don't understand how the rotors being lug centric vs. hub centric makes a difference in this situation.
I guess I also don't understand how the rotors being lug centric vs. hub centric makes a difference in this situation.
DPI
1/2 ton status
After thinking about this I don't know why the turn wouldn't be true. If the hole in the rotor isn't centered it should still turn "flat". The jackass that turned my last set installed the hubbed rotor wrong and machined it where it does pulsate... And the brake caliper drags when you free wheel it while lifted in the air...
The problem with a lot of places is they dont have the race cones to chuck up our big stuff so they try to improvise and end up with your results. I'd have a loose one turned without reservation. Just my opinion but it's a real world vs perfect world - no offense to Jason4x4 or 4x4HIGH.
I have adapters to machine semi truck brake drums if that tells you anything. Oh, i can also machine the drum with the tire/wheel still attached if need be. 
Also, if someone is machining a drum or rotor and does not clean the mating surface then there is no way possible to have it machined true. A small spec of dirt/rust or whatever at the mounting face of the drum/rotor equates to a bunch of runout by the time you reach the edge of the drum/rotor. Just for this purpose when i machine used drums/rotors i bead blast the mating surface so there is no dirt/rust or whatever to contend with that would make the drum/rotor have any runout once machined.
Also, if someone is machining a drum or rotor and does not clean the mating surface then there is no way possible to have it machined true. A small spec of dirt/rust or whatever at the mounting face of the drum/rotor equates to a bunch of runout by the time you reach the edge of the drum/rotor. Just for this purpose when i machine used drums/rotors i bead blast the mating surface so there is no dirt/rust or whatever to contend with that would make the drum/rotor have any runout once machined.
DPI
1/2 ton status
I have adapters to machine semi truck brake drums if that tells you anything. Oh, i can also machine the drum with the tire/wheel still attached if need be.
Also, if someone is machining a drum or rotor and does not clean the mating surface then there is no way possible to have it machined true. A small spec of dirt/rust or whatever at the mounting face of the drum/rotor equates to a bunch of runout by the time you reach the edge of the drum/rotor. Just for this purpose when i machine used drums/rotors i bead blast the mating surface so there is no dirt/rust or whatever to contend with that would make the drum/rotor have any runout once machined.
Wish you were closer. Most of the places around here have inexperienced kids running the machines.
