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Dana 60 F/R axles

greengiant0311

1/2 ton status
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I have a good line on a pair of axles. 60 front and 60 rear out of 88 dodge truck. Any one know if its a direct bolt in for an 80 scottsdale?
 
No, not a direct fit BUT yes they can be made to fit.
 
The front will be very close. Close enough to work perch wise. The shock mounts I don't know about. The rear I have no idea but it ain't too terrible cutting off spring perches and welding new ones on. Shock mounts would prolly have to be addresses on the rear as well.
 
I would use the front you have then find a 14 bolt for the rear with the perches in the right place
 
x2, id keep the front, and scrap the rear and try to find a chevy 3/4 ton rear end that will just bolt in without any perch relocating.
 
So should I keep the 10 bolts till they break or upgrade them or go to 60 front 14 bolt rear?
May as well keep the 10 bolts till you have everything that you need for the new axles(conversion u-joint for rear, u bolts and plates for both, 8 lug wheels) then get everything set up out of the truck then swap them in all at once
 
I disagree with the 60 vs 10bolt rear. If the 60 is a full floater your already 1 up. You also gain another inch of ring gears, 2 up. More locker options, 3 up. You can compare shaft sizes all you want they dont break like 10 and 12 bolts.

I'd say clearance to tire size oriented thinking you cant beat a 60 rear all the way up to 37's. But as said if you want brute strength you never have to worry about go 14bff/d70/d80/sterling 10.25
 
I disagree with the 60 vs 10bolt rear. If the 60 is a full floater your already 1 up.

I'll double check (and this argument has been made several times before) but as I understand it the shear and torsion loads that the shaft sees are independent; i.e. as long as the semi-float shaft doesn't shear from the weight of the vehicle, it will have no effect on the torsional load the shaft can take. Hence, no torsional strength difference between semi-float and full-float axle shafts.

You also gain another inch of ring gears, 2 up.

There's actually a difference of 1.25" in ring gear not 1" (8.5" vs 9.75", and ring gear size alone doesn't determine ring and pinion strength). 98% of the time, with a 10/12 bolt, the shaft or carrier/spider gears will break before the ring and pinion. The D60 ring and pinion is certainly stronger than the 10 bolt stuff but that's upgrading the strongest part of the 10 bolt which doesn't eliminate a weak link.


More locker options, 3 up.

AFAIK the 10 bolt has at least as many locker options, certainly both have Detroit, ARB, lock-rite, etc. The 10 bolt has more limited slip and spool options thanks to the racing crowd.

The D60 does have a distinct advantage with lunchbox style lockers here because they hold up well in D60's and not so much with 10 bolts.


You can compare shaft sizes all you want they dont break like 10 and 12 bolts.

I bet I've seen a half dozen or so broken 30 spline FF 60's on the trail, IME they break pretty easily. I wouldn't say FF 60's are a strength upgrade (from a shaft perspective), though you could drive off the trail without replacing the broken shaft which you couldn't do with a semi-floating axle.

A FF D60 is basically a half ton axle with a one ton weight carrying capacity.
 
You do have a good point. I seem to have forgotten about all the "car"/ racing related options that the 10bolt has available to it.

I just dont understand how the 60 can be the godly front axle but a piece of garbage rear. Plenty of people run them around here with no problems. Then again noone around here actually wheels. Its more like jump in a mud hole for a few mins then go drink beer...

As you confirmed the biggest upgrade to it would be the full floaty-ness :D Which in return does away with the c-clips and stops you from watching your rear tire wave goodbye to your truck.
 
WOW guys thanks for all the info. Now Im second guessing the whole thing. Also this guy also has a set of axles from a 1 ton dually. Im thinking these would be better but is the swap from from the dually complicated?
 
WOW guys thanks for all the info. Now Im second guessing the whole thing. Also this guy also has a set of axles from a 1 ton dually. Im thinking these would be better but is the swap from from the dually complicated?

Well, that front 60 is still worthwhile. What's the price? (you can send me a PM if you don't want to post it here)

Dually axles are different from SRW axles and require wheels with tons of backspacing (H2 wheels are light and cheap) or conversion to SRW.

The swap from DRW to SRW isn't complicated but it is expensive (it also depends on which year D60 your talking about).
 
250 for the F/R dana 60s havent talked to him bout the 1ton axles they are on an 80s model chevy. Also this truck is gonna be a mostly DD with alot of trail time during the spring thru fall months. Want to run 38s so any input is always appreciated
 
250 for the F/R dana 60s havent talked to him bout the 1ton axles they are on an 80s model chevy. Also this truck is gonna be a mostly DD with alot of trail time during the spring thru fall months. Want to run 38s so any input is always appreciated

The front 60 is worth at least triple that, I've sold a ton or rear 60's and they usually go for $100-250.

You should unquestionably buy that front 60 ;)

Make damn sure that's its actually a 60 though, lots of people don't know what they're talking about and some people take the (desirable) axles from a truck and replace them with 1/2 or 3/4 ton stuff.
 
Really? Had no idea is was worth that. So i should keep looking for a 14 bolt? If Im waiting which one? The FF or SF
 

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