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Dana 60 front axle with 3/4 ton brakes

MetalMulishaMarcus

MetalMulishaMarcus

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Biggest tire I'm gonna ever go is 37s. I know the smaller brakes will give me a better pedal feel but is this a good upgrade/downgrade?

@Rugby_7 brough it up in another thread I posted and it really got me thinking.

Is this something I should do? I wouldn't have to mess with anything else on the brakes after as to where if I keep the D60 big brakes then I need to add an adjustable prop valve in the like somewhere I think.

Any thoughts, opinions, advice, negative comments are greatly appreciated. Thanks.
 
Where did the adjustable prop valve become a necessity? some people use them on a rear disc conversion, but if you already have front discs it shouldn't be an issue.
 
OK, the more info the better....but I would stick with the D60 fronts and assuming your using 3/4t rear setup, if you don't have a factory prop valve, install an adjustable prop valve in line to the rears...I use that setup with a 1ton master cylinder from a 78 K30 and have excellent brakes on my K5 with 39.5's on it.
 
76zimmer said:
OK, the more info the better....but I would stick with the D60 fronts and assuming your using 3/4t rear setup, if you don't have a factory prop valve, install an adjustable prop valve in line to the rears...I use that setup with a 1ton master cylinder from a 78 K30 and have excellent brakes on my K5 with 39.5's on it.
Click to expand...

1/2 I think. I just took the calipers from my dana 44 front and put them on the rear.
I do have a factory prop valve, I swapped it out for a disk/disk one.
Are you still vacuum assisted brakes or hydroboost?
 
I used 3/4 ton rotor, brakes, and caliper on my Dana 60 mainly because I had them and it was cheaper to buy the brackets from RuffStuff then to order all new 1 ton brake parts. I have been really happy with them though.
 
Rugby_7 said:
I used 3/4 ton rotor, brakes, and caliper on my Dana 60 mainly because I had them and it was cheaper to buy the brackets from RuffStuff then to order all new 1 ton brake parts. I have been really happy with them though.
Click to expand...

I can get everything from lugnut4x4 for a reasonable price
 
Use tmr brackets. They actually put the spindle in the right spot. Lugnut does not.

And it's a great pedal and braking performance for what you're doing. Keep the brake system you have all together and use the small rotor on the 60.

We have that now on this 79 and it works excellent.

*If your current brake system is functioning correctly .
 
obijuank5 said:
Use tmr brackets. They actually put the spindle in the right spot. Lugnut does not.

And it's a great pedal and braking performance for what you're doing. Keep the brake system you have all together and use the small rotor on the 60.

We have that now on this 79 and it works excellent.

*If your current brake system is functioning correctly .
Click to expand...

You're saying keep the D60 stock brakes with a smaller rotor on it?
 
obijuank5 said:
Use tmr brackets. They actually put the spindle in the right spot. Lugnut does not.

And it's a great pedal and braking performance for what you're doing. Keep the brake system you have all together and use the small rotor on the 60.

We have that now on this 79 and it works excellent.

*If your current brake system is functioning correctly .
Click to expand...

Just looked at TMR site, they have a bunch of stuff...lol not sure if I should say thank you.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
1/2 I think. I just took the calipers from my dana 44 front and put them on the rear.
I do have a factory prop valve, I swapped it out for a disk/disk one.
Are you still vacuum assisted brakes or hydroboost?
Click to expand...
Hydro
 
Vacuum booster + K30 master cylinder = very poor brakes. The hydroboost makes a lot more braking pressure and without it, it doesn't work well.

My vote (and I'm surprised I'm in the minority) is to keep the big brakes. The only downfall with running the bigger brakes on the front with a 1/2T or 3/4T master cylinder is that the pedal will travel further. As long as the brakes are bled, the pedal won't hit the floor and you'll still have good brakes. Really good brakes.

As far as proportioning valves go, that's to dial back brake pressure. In the front, you won't have too much even with stock D60 brakes. Sometimes, with disc conversions in the back, you need to dial it back (sometimes).

Honestly I thought the only reason people swapped smaller brakes on a D60 was to fit 15" wheels.
 
1977k5 said:
Vacuum booster + K30 master cylinder = very poor brakes. The hydroboost makes a lot more braking pressure and without it, it doesn't work well.

My vote (and I'm surprised I'm in the minority) is to keep the big brakes. The only downfall with running the bigger brakes on the front with a 1/2T or 3/4T master cylinder is that the pedal will travel further. As long as the brakes are bled, the pedal won't hit the floor and you'll still have good brakes. Really good brakes.

As far as proportioning valves go, that's to dial back brake pressure. In the front, you won't have too much even with stock D60 brakes. Sometimes, with disc conversions in the back, you need to dial it back (sometimes).

Honestly I thought the only reason people swapped smaller brakes on a D60 was to fit 15" wheels.
Click to expand...
That's the only reason anyone used to do it.
And all those in my club that did, ended going back to stock brakes and they erre on 36" tires.
Most ended up upgrading the caliper even to a dual piston caliper for better stopping power
 
I have the 3/4t brakes front and rear on Ethel with the Hydroboost and the stock prop valve and the wrong master (pressure residual valve still inside the rear port) but that aside it has the best brakes of any squarebody besides Lucy.. which has the best.. it’ll put you through the window if you aren’t harnessed in.. it’s not touchy either, it has a positive and progressive feel that comes in like. Sports car.. if that makes sense..
 
sreidmx said:
I have the 3/4t brakes front and rear on Ethel with the Hydroboost and the stock prop valve and the wrong master (pressure residual valve still inside the rear port) but that aside it has the best brakes of any squarebody besides Lucy.. which has the best.. it’ll put you through the window if you aren’t harnessed in.. it’s not touchy either, it has a positive and progressive feel that comes in like. Sports car.. if that makes sense..
Click to expand...

Yeah, I like the big brakes in front...with the hydro...I went for the biggest bore stock m/c I could find (I think its 1-5/16) and had to make a pushrod extension and also needed to tweak my prop valve a few times but its dialed in now and like Steve says it is predictable, but I have no problem locking them up if want to push it that far. It hauls down my heavy Iron Maiden very well.
 
I'm very happy with my setup. Great stopping power / pedal feel. Everything seems perfect. I have absolute confidence in the braking system.
Front/rear 3/4 ton brakes, calipers, rotors. Disc/disc proportioning valve. 1985 k20 booster. 2000 Tahoe m/c, with s10 reservoir. Braided brake lines.
Though I am not running massive tires, just 35s right now. I haven't weighed my blazer but I think its on the lighter side with no top, gutted interior, and ls drivetrain.
I wouldn't worry fully loaded or pulling a trailer.
 
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