On what ? D 60 front 14bolt rear ? What master / proportioning valve are you useing ? How’s the pedal feel?I have disk on front and rear.
I’m having issues with mine .
On what ? D 60 front 14bolt rear ? What master / proportioning valve are you useing ? How’s the pedal feel?I have disk on front and rear.
On what ? D 60 front 14bolt rear ? What master / proportioning valve are you useing ? How’s the pedal feel?
I’m having issues with mine .

Sorry to mislead, I was being sarcastic - I don't run a prop valve; big brakes all the way around, stops good with no issues.
So I have the exact same setup . Other than the master and booster from a k30 . I feel I have the same issue . I went to a disc /disc valve and a 1 1/2 bore wilwood master . Same thing brakes would work well but spongy feel long pedal.Yes D60 front and 14 bolt rear. The D60 has the stock big brakes and the 14 volt has 1/2 brakes from my old D44 front.
I change the stock prop valve for a disk/disk one and I change the master/booster to a k30 one with a 5.7 in it (not sure if that is a 1 ton or not)
The pedal is good, I just get a spongy pedal at random times and it scares me a little. I know everything is bleed and the system is good cause I can slam on my brakes and stop on a dime..but I just feel my system isn't up to par for the bigger brakes as well as being disk on all 4 corners.
So what are doing what’s your complete setup if you don’t mind shareing?Sorry to mislead, I was being sarcastic - I don't run a prop valve; big brakes all the way around, stops good with no issues.
I have the 3/4t brakes front and rear on Ethel with the Hydroboost and the stock prop valve and the wrong master (pressure residual valve still inside the rear port) but that aside it has the best brakes of any squarebody besides Lucy.. which has the best.. it’ll put you through the window if you aren’t harnessed in.. it’s not touchy either, it has a positive and progressive feel that comes in like. Sports car.. if that makes sense..
So I have the exact same setup . Other than the master and booster from a k30 . I feel I have the same issue . I went to a disc /disc valve and a 1 1/2 bore wilwood master . Same thing brakes would work well but spongy feel long pedal.
Saw a lot of posts about guys leaving in stock master /valve and have no issues . So I switched it all back stock master stock valve and everything got way better . Again brakes are working and will lock up just a long pedal and spongy at times.
So what are doing what’s your complete setup if you don’t mind shareing?
'99 C3500 master cylinder (vacuum, 4 wheel disc application)
Original '91 vacuum booster
D60 front with stock brakes
D70HD rear with custom disc brakes using front D60 parts
No proportioning valve, just a T fitting at each end of the truck
This set up stops the truck (on 43's) fine, good pedal with no weird behavior. (See sig for more truck info)
'99 C3500 master cylinder (vacuum, 4 wheel disc application)
Original '91 vacuum booster
D60 front with stock brakes
D70HD rear with custom disc brakes using front D60 parts
No proportioning valve, just a T fitting at each end of the truck
This set up stops the truck (on 43's) fine, good pedal with no weird behavior. (See sig for more truck info)
Stock pedal?'99 C3500 master cylinder (vacuum, 4 wheel disc application)
Original '91 vacuum booster
D60 front with stock brakes
D70HD rear with custom disc brakes using front D60 parts
No proportioning valve, just a T fitting at each end of the truck
This set up stops the truck (on 43's) fine, good pedal with no weird behavior. (See sig for more truck info)
I have the ruff stuff brackets with my original 1/2 ton calipers on my blazer. I would definitely go this route again. I knew my calipers worked. I didn’t have to even disconnect or bleed them for the axle swap.
Except for some issues with ruff stuffs knowledge of using their own parts, I’m really happy with ditching the Dana 60 calipers. I don’t like the slide in mounting thing, and I think that would make servicing them slightly more difficult. With hydro boost, I cannot notice a difference in stopping compared to a Dana 60. I haven’t put many miles on my setup, but it works fine with 42s.
You will most likely have to drill the rotors to clear the front wheel studs.
Except for a couple random years, to the best of my knowledge, there is no such thing as a “3/4 ton caliper”. I believe Ruffstuff uses these part numbers for their kits and it results in awkward lines and hoses whether you’re contemplating a rear disc swap or putting on their front brackets. I wanted to have the same caliper on all four corners for simplicities sake, but this didn’t happen in the end.
the guys truck was a frankenstein made of spare parts from several donors ,so it was always "fun" to find him the right parts whenever he came in to buy something..