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Dana 60 front axle with 3/4 ton brakes

On what ? D 60 front 14bolt rear ? What master / proportioning valve are you useing ? How’s the pedal feel?

I’m having issues with mine .

Yes D60 front and 14 bolt rear. The D60 has the stock big brakes and the 14 volt has 1/2 brakes from my old D44 front.
I change the stock prop valve for a disk/disk one and I change the master/booster to a k30 one with a 5.7 in it (not sure if that is a 1 ton or not)

The pedal is good, I just get a spongy pedal at random times and it scares me a little. I know everything is bleed and the system is good cause I can slam on my brakes and stop on a dime..but I just feel my system isn't up to par for the bigger brakes as well as being disk on all 4 corners.
 
Sorry to mislead, I was being sarcastic - I don't run a prop valve; big brakes all the way around, stops good with no issues.
 
Yes D60 front and 14 bolt rear. The D60 has the stock big brakes and the 14 volt has 1/2 brakes from my old D44 front.
I change the stock prop valve for a disk/disk one and I change the master/booster to a k30 one with a 5.7 in it (not sure if that is a 1 ton or not)

The pedal is good, I just get a spongy pedal at random times and it scares me a little. I know everything is bleed and the system is good cause I can slam on my brakes and stop on a dime..but I just feel my system isn't up to par for the bigger brakes as well as being disk on all 4 corners.
So I have the exact same setup . Other than the master and booster from a k30 . I feel I have the same issue . I went to a disc /disc valve and a 1 1/2 bore wilwood master . Same thing brakes would work well but spongy feel long pedal.

Saw a lot of posts about guys leaving in stock master /valve and have no issues . So I switched it all back stock master stock valve and everything got way better . Again brakes are working and will lock up just a long pedal and spongy at times.
 
Sorry to mislead, I was being sarcastic - I don't run a prop valve; big brakes all the way around, stops good with no issues.
So what are doing what’s your complete setup if you don’t mind shareing?
 
I have the 3/4t brakes front and rear on Ethel with the Hydroboost and the stock prop valve and the wrong master (pressure residual valve still inside the rear port) but that aside it has the best brakes of any squarebody besides Lucy.. which has the best.. it’ll put you through the window if you aren’t harnessed in.. it’s not touchy either, it has a positive and progressive feel that comes in like. Sports car.. if that makes sense..

If I was converting to hydroboost then I think I'd keep the 1 ton brakes. I posted another thread asking if I should keep my vacuum brakes or convert to hydroboost.
 
So I have the exact same setup . Other than the master and booster from a k30 . I feel I have the same issue . I went to a disc /disc valve and a 1 1/2 bore wilwood master . Same thing brakes would work well but spongy feel long pedal.

Saw a lot of posts about guys leaving in stock master /valve and have no issues . So I switched it all back stock master stock valve and everything got way better . Again brakes are working and will lock up just a long pedal and spongy at times.

Should I go back to the stock 1/2 ton distribution valve? My truck stops, I just get a random soft pedal.
 
So what are doing what’s your complete setup if you don’t mind shareing?

'99 C3500 master cylinder (vacuum, 4 wheel disc application)
Original '91 vacuum booster
D60 front with stock brakes
D70HD rear with custom disc brakes using front D60 parts
No proportioning valve, just a T fitting at each end of the truck

This set up stops the truck (on 43's) fine, good pedal with no weird behavior. (See sig for more truck info)
 
'99 C3500 master cylinder (vacuum, 4 wheel disc application)
Original '91 vacuum booster
D60 front with stock brakes
D70HD rear with custom disc brakes using front D60 parts
No proportioning valve, just a T fitting at each end of the truck

This set up stops the truck (on 43's) fine, good pedal with no weird behavior. (See sig for more truck info)

Does this truck see any street time?
 
So far not much but that's an issue with me, not the truck. LOL The intended use will be a family wheeler and drive it when the weather is nice. I've put about 250 miles on it to date, 99% street.
 
'99 C3500 master cylinder (vacuum, 4 wheel disc application)
Original '91 vacuum booster
D60 front with stock brakes
D70HD rear with custom disc brakes using front D60 parts
No proportioning valve, just a T fitting at each end of the truck

This set up stops the truck (on 43's) fine, good pedal with no weird behavior. (See sig for more truck info)

I have the same setup except for smaller rotors and k5 calipers on the rear.
My k5 stops well with the large tires. Never had it on smaller tires to see if it changes. Stock prop valve too.
 
'99 C3500 master cylinder (vacuum, 4 wheel disc application)
Original '91 vacuum booster
D60 front with stock brakes
D70HD rear with custom disc brakes using front D60 parts
No proportioning valve, just a T fitting at each end of the truck

This set up stops the truck (on 43's) fine, good pedal with no weird behavior. (See sig for more truck info)
Stock pedal?
 
Yes, all stock hydraulic pedals from an '86 donor.
 
I have the ruff stuff brackets with my original 1/2 ton calipers on my blazer. I would definitely go this route again. I knew my calipers worked. I didn’t have to even disconnect or bleed them for the axle swap.

Except for some issues with ruff stuffs knowledge of using their own parts, I’m really happy with ditching the Dana 60 calipers. I don’t like the slide in mounting thing, and I think that would make servicing them slightly more difficult. With hydro boost, I cannot notice a difference in stopping compared to a Dana 60. I haven’t put many miles on my setup, but it works fine with 42s.

You will most likely have to drill the rotors to clear the front wheel studs.

Except for a couple random years, to the best of my knowledge, there is no such thing as a “3/4 ton caliper”. I believe Ruffstuff uses these part numbers for their kits and it results in awkward lines and hoses whether you’re contemplating a rear disc swap or putting on their front brackets. I wanted to have the same caliper on all four corners for simplicities sake, but this didn’t happen in the end.
 
I have the ruff stuff brackets with my original 1/2 ton calipers on my blazer. I would definitely go this route again. I knew my calipers worked. I didn’t have to even disconnect or bleed them for the axle swap.

Except for some issues with ruff stuffs knowledge of using their own parts, I’m really happy with ditching the Dana 60 calipers. I don’t like the slide in mounting thing, and I think that would make servicing them slightly more difficult. With hydro boost, I cannot notice a difference in stopping compared to a Dana 60. I haven’t put many miles on my setup, but it works fine with 42s.

You will most likely have to drill the rotors to clear the front wheel studs.

Except for a couple random years, to the best of my knowledge, there is no such thing as a “3/4 ton caliper”. I believe Ruffstuff uses these part numbers for their kits and it results in awkward lines and hoses whether you’re contemplating a rear disc swap or putting on their front brackets. I wanted to have the same caliper on all four corners for simplicities sake, but this didn’t happen in the end.

You're on hydroboost? What calipers are you using then since you don't have the same ones on all 4 corners.
I think you're correct, I don't think there is a 3/4 caliper as well. I think the only thing that changes on a 1/2 axle to a 3/4 axle is the the wheel studs, going from 6 lugs to 8 lugs is what makes it stronger.

Since you have hydroboost and you cant tell a change in the braking performance, other then wanting the same caliper on all corners..why did you do the conversion? Especially since you have 42s. Just curious.
 
I think if you look hard enough you'll see there are calipers that'll bolt up to 1/2 or 3/4 ton 4x4s that had slightly different piston sizes..
They may use the same pad and mounting bolts patterns,but they are different..

I had a customer who bought two rebuilt calipers and new hoses,and immediately had a "pulling to one side when I hit the brakes" issue..

It took a lot of investigating before he finally decided to blame the calipers--we measured the pistons and one was about 3/16" larger..
I got another caliper off the shelf and found it had the same sized piston as the one with the larger piston,he swapped the matching pair on and no more pulling issues..
The catalogs listed one part # for several years on half tons,but somewhere in the late 70's they added a 3/4 ton caliper with the larger pistons to the listings....the guys truck was a frankenstein made of spare parts from several donors ,so it was always "fun" to find him the right parts whenever he came in to buy something..
 
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