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dana 60 help on gear setup ( UPDATE Post 40 pattern check )

sweetk30

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UPDATE post #39 new gears and posi unit full reman job now.



i am helping a friend out and installing new bearings in his dana 60 from a 98-99 ford e-350 van . bom on the tag is 606049-2 3.55 gears and trac-lok .

it had inner pinion bearing go bad and start chunking apart along with 1 carrier bearing. then when i pulled the cover and looked around i found small bits of thin metal. but nothing to indicate were it come from.

well after checking the gear setup of a 60 on pirate 4x4 tech section and looking at the parts blowup i have come to a point of question.

there is no inner pinion bearing oil slinger on the old stuff i took out. but all the pics i see and blow ups show one. also there was no play on the old inner pinion bearing to were it seats on the pinnion like the shim fell apart and come out. but before tear down i did have a lot of play in the pinion bearings.

i wounder if the slinger fell apart and the bearing walked down tight and this is my metal chunks. ? :dunno:

i know there is lots of ver of the 60 but its got me stumped as i am to low in pattern to gear contact . and no shims were removed on old pinion bearings in housing so to start with new i put back same way.

any help would be super thanks guys.
 
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I'm going off of memory but I think all of the high pinion Dana 60's I've dealt with had the slinger and all of the low pinion Dana 60's I've deal with did not.

I've always just kept the slinger if it was there or not installed one if it wasn't but I'm pretty sure that's how those work.
 
How thin was the metal? The oil slinger is actually pretty thick, although it could have been crushed obviously.

Ford seems to like the slinger better than GM or Dodge,

Do you know for a fact that no one has been into the diff?
 
oil was black / cover had that ford gray sealer on it / van had 145,xxx miles and loots all orignal.

the few peices of scrap i pulled out are of the thickness of the slinger. but all of it dont add up to a whole slinger.

also i pulled and checked the hub bearigs and looked in the axle tubes and there is no extra or missing parts.

this axle come apart looking like a reg 60 minus the slinger . and its a LOW PINION axle rear.

just hate to get it all together and have to redo to add the slinger.

will take camera to shop tusday and redo pattern and show parts and we can go from there.
 
I bet the pieces that you found are from the trac-loc. The Bellville springs break and dump the pieces onto the magnet. The Bellville spring is the plate directly behind the spider gear,between the gear and the clutches ( it looks like a metal clutch plate). I see this happen about once a month and its really easy to overlook.

if you really want to know if there was a slinger, go to the dealer and look at the exploded view using the vin number. Those other diagrams are too generic.

how far off is the setup? If its only a little off,its not due to a missing slinger. There would have had some serious gear whine if it broke and went mia. It seems to me that since the mid 90s Dana hasn't been too concerned about quality and having a perfect pattern. That's why Chrysler doesn't use them any more. Too many warranty claims.
 
Thats kind of what i was leaning towards too, if it was a slinger then it would have caused other major problems in the diff.

I haven't done too many newer trucks with 60 rears in them but most of the 60 rears I have done do not have the slinger
 
well i slept on the ideas last night i read and also figured out my self. so today i installed the pinion with out slinger and there is NO shims under inner pinion race or under inner bearing on pinion. this is the way it was stock.

i did how ever have to reshim the carrier over as the back lash was way to tight and couldnt even get the carrier to drop in with stock reused shims.

i did get down to .010 " backlash seeing as its used gears i know it should be on the high side as there will be no break in/opening up like new set. was NOt able to check old backlash as pinion bearing was bad and way to much slop in the system.

this is the best i can get on the pattern at this point. what do you guys think ? ? ?

cant get pinion moved to center any more as no shims now . and carrier movement would be hard as backlash would be to tight if moved. unless i am reading this wrong pattern wise.

not the best pics but what i got . and ya used gears are hard to read pattern from what others have said. so that why i am asking and included both drive and coast side.

0111121126b.jpg

0111121126a.jpg
 
will round of peices for pic.

also if i am thinking right the pinion is to high on the gear but cant go lower as its lowest now with no shims anywere on it other than rear pinion bearing for turning force .

i almost wish i had just told him new gears and full rebuild. but he is on a budget as he is a farmer and its the off season for him now.

it was run for a bit with bad bearings and we knew this when he purchased the van few months ago. so mabye the the gears are worn to bad to be reused at this point. and mabye why i cant get a good pattern/reading.
 
checked the clitch pack clips all there and tiny bit of play in them.

checked the spider gear shims for the 2 gears @ the cross shaft there both there.

and here is pic of crap removed . ave of 1/64th" thickness on them. thay are mangled just a little but can tell there to be all flat.

and few pattern contects of pinion.

only reson i am even doing this is for my good friend who has helped me a LOT the last 2 years with my stuff and during my surgery /recovery time this last year. or i would have not even touched this thing. :zombie4:

0111121437a.jpg

0111121446a.jpg

0111121447a.jpg
 
mabye i am over thinking this dam thing. only done few sets of gears and no expert yet.

correct me if i am wrong but with contact to high on gear now if i was to add a shim under inner pinion bearing or race it would make it contact even less ? ? ?
 
Here's the pattern I ended up with, that was unanimously accepted to be my best pattern:

HPIM1501.jpg


HPIM1502.jpg
 
i know what good looks like zimm. but i got used gears and others say thay can be a s.o.a.b. to get read on pattern check . and also i think the gears might be messed up from running to long like this with old bad bearings and play in pinion before removed.

here is the chart i am using . and its of a 60 axle . right now i got what looks like bottom right . but if i increese back lash then i wont be with in spec.

Figure_28.jpg
 
I've heard more than one say used gears are a bitch to read....so that's all I can offer Brett, I had to have a LOT of help to get mine right.
 
I haven't had to adjust a shim on a re-bearing in a looong time. Something is funny here. Unless the gears are f-d because the bearing was really bad. But still....where is the pinion shim?
 
I have never taken the pattern on a used r&p very seriously. I have done piles of bearing replacements and often check the pattern for the hell of it. It is pretty crazy the crappy patterns you will see that run quiet, but try to make that pattern look good and they get noisy. I have learned to leave old stuff set up the way it was, and if it is noisy then it is time for gears.
 
cant do that tho 100%

had to reshim the carrier to get the unit to drop in and also get back lash close to spec . but not perfect as its broken in.

just figured if i could get it close we would be good.

mabye this is what we get for not using same brand bearings from when it come apart to replace with.

had timken and now koyo . figured if factory is using koyo in there stuff should be good for this one.
 
I haven't had to adjust a shim on a re-bearing in a looong time. Something is funny here. Unless the gears are f-d because the bearing was really bad. But still....where is the pinion shim?

didnt have shims from factory to start on pinion .

i think i will pull the races and compare thicknesses and see if this is the huge problem.

good thing i wrote down the stock shim placements. :whistle:
 
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