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Dana 60 question

73redblaze

73redblaze

1/2 ton status
Joined
Jun 18, 2008
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Location
Aptos ca
Im picking up my d60 on friday and i have a few questions. I have some spring plates i bought from ruffstuff for my Dana 44, can i use the same plates on my d60? these are them
http://www.ruffstuffspecialties.com/catalog/25GM-UPLT.html

and is the OD of a d60 much bigger than that of a 3/4 ton dana 44? can i use the same u-bolts? I will post up pics on friday. anyone want to trade me some SRW hubs for my DRW hubs? if it wont fit anyone want to trade ruffstuff plates for d60 plates of steering arm? also have a flattop pass side knuckle tapped and ready to go with brand new $100 napa ball joints.:woot:
 
nope and nope



Driver plate is a little bigger than d44, and passenger plate is 100% different

alxe tubes are bigger, so u bolts not gonna fit
 
You can use the driver side of the 44 on the 60, been there done than, but the pass side is totally different.
 
NEVER reuse U bolts.
Sorry I'm not an expert on the axles and don't have any other valuable information.
 
ok sounds good. WFO here i come, credit card in hand. I want to buy their truss kit to but its a little to pricey for my current budget. Thanks fellas
 
do any of you guys run shims? I have 56 stock springs in the front for 7.25" shackles. was thinking about running 6* shims. what say the brotherhood?
 
go to harbor freight and get the 5 buck angle finder.

You will be able to use it for many things
 
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ok i will go get one this weekend. i would think you would want the yolk faceing just a little upwards to meet the u-joint but if i want a positive caster, wont the yolk be facing down? and another stupid question, but after i get the gauge, where do i place it? on the pumpkin after all in installed?
 
problem is with lift it moves the pinion down = bad driveline angles.

to fix this you add shims but this = messed up caster angles.

to fix both correctly = cut/turn knuckles and reweld. :D

and on a axle with spring pad machined in the center section this = rework of the pad to match the new angles for the tilted pumkin.

so its a give n take play game unless you do the big fix job.
 
73redblaze said:
ok i will go get one this weekend. i would think you would want the yolk faceing just a little upwards to meet the u-joint but if i want a positive caster, wont the yolk be facing down? and another stupid question, but after i get the gauge, where do i place it? on the pumpkin after all in installed?
Click to expand...

Yoke. Yoke. Yoke. Yolks are in eggs, yokes go around the shoulders of oxen or around the U-joints. Sorry, pet peeve, like "gear rations", which is what you feed your gears :haha:

Anyway, that's a very good question. The angle finder reference would be the vertical line that goes from ball joint to ball joint, as that would be 0* caster. The HF finder conveniently goes 0-90-0*, so you could just as easily use something that's perpendicular to that imaginary line as you could one that's parallel to it.

I use the top surface of the steering arm which is parallel to the top surface of the knuckle ... but I have flat-top knuckles for crossover.

I'll steal this pic from ORD's web page (thank you Stephen & co!)

D44knuckles.JPG


I have the right-handle style knuckle, and use the flat surface that the arrow points to.

If you've got stock push-pull, you may be in for some fun finding a level spot -- the factory steering arm has exactly no flat or level spots. I suppose you could take the cotter pin out of the top ball joint stud, put another nut on the top, and use that as the reference :thinking:

If the top of your "C" is really clean and you can find a wide enough swath, you might be able to put the finder there as well.

I do find the HF finder to be ... sensitive. I put it on the ground by the tire, let it sit for a coupla minutes to stop wiggling, and then check. My lot isn't remotely level and the driveway is slightly inclined, so I start there. I then put it on the steering arm, again letting it settle, and subtract the one from the other (the truck faces uphill.)

Hope that all makes sense. I can come up with more pix if your head hurts from the math ... I've been fiddling with my steering the last coupla weeks, so I've been doing this a lot ... seems to involve waving my hands about imagining triangles and I'm almost used to the headache. :doah:


-- A
 
makes perfect sence, on another note, click my sig and i have a flattop tapped knuckle for sale done by WFO. Thanks for all the help guys, check out my build thread below for updates coming this friday
 
73redblaze said:
makes perfect sence, on another note, click my sig and i have a flattop tapped knuckle for sale done by WFO. go ahead, click it
Click to expand...

Yeah, I know Trevor & his folks well -- I looove having them one day's UPS away :D

And dammit. The thread is even titled "Dana 60" and I'm thinking D44 :doah:

Correction: Find yourself the line between the KINGPINS -- maybe the top plate has a nice flat bit? -- and work from there.

-- A
 
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