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Dana 60 rear power-lock, 4.56's

jk3078

jk3078

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So hears my question. I found a deal on a Dana 60 rear with a power-lock and 4.56's, 16 spline axles. What would I have to do to put this in my 84' 60 front? It seems like I read in Petersons or somewhere that you can do this useing dana 70 side gears or somthing? The ring and pinion should work in my front also right? I sure hope you guy's can point me in the right direction on this because this diff would be sweet in my k5!! :bow: I just got the 4.56's for a 14bff so all I need is the gears for the front.

Hears some #'s I got off the diff. *= a space between #'s
4**12**69**A********21492**X

Hears some off the ring gear
3**19**69**30316**J1N26**41-9

Thanks for any info
 
Swap out the side gears from a dana 70 Powerlok. Dana 60 rear carriers and gears will go in a Gm front. Why can't i find stuff like this?? I have a set of side gears for one, but I find Dana 70 Powerloks all the time. Can't seem to find a 60 powerlok.
 
Is there an aftermarket source for these? Where can I get some 70 side gears? Theres no good junkyards around here.
 
I went to FleetPrice and ordered a set. Hold on and I can get you the numbers. I have the gears somewhere, so I can't garuantee these are the numbers, but I found 35294. If you go to the Dana expert, search for something that has a 70 rear, find one that has a P/L, and check the numbers.
 
i was under the idea thay were called trash locks. as thay wear out quickly.:confused: :D

opps for got the 2 styles dissregard above.:doah:
 
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I heard the Tracloks called that, but not the Poweloks. For the front in the muddy terrain around here, a P/L will be fine. I don't beat the crap out of my stuff anyways, so I think even a Trashlok will be fine. I actually have a P/L coming in any day now. I'm sure if I looked hard enough I could find a P/L. I have 5-6 yards to go through.
 
Having that rear end retubed and finding dana 60 knuckles will make this job very expensive (not even counting new spider gears/locker and shafts). The only thing that is worth anything on a 16 spline rear end is the gears: the shafts (you already know these are crap) and spindles (have to be bored to accept strong shafts and even then are pretty thin) are not much to talk about. There is no way to take any rear 60 and convert is to a front 60 for any less money than just buying a front 60. There is no way I would consider this.
 
38377k5 said:
Having that rear end retubed and finding dana 60 knuckles will make this job very expensive (not even counting new spider gears/locker and shafts). The only thing that is worth anything on a 16 spline rear end is the gears: the shafts (you already know these are crap) and spindles (have to be bored to accept strong shafts and even then are pretty thin) are not much to talk about. There is no way to take any rear 60 and convert is to a front 60 for any less money than just buying a front 60. There is no way I would consider this.
Click to expand...

I think he's just talking about the carrier and gears...not entire axle.;)
 
To clarify, you would need to retube both ends of the axle, find dana 60 inner C's, find knuckles (or buy aftermarket), new inner and outer shafts with u-joints, new carrier/locker, lockouts/drive flanges, kingpins, etc. This will cost you way more than a used Chevy dana 60 (probably at least twice as much, IMO).
 
atho said:
I think he's just talking about the carrier and gears...not entire axle.;)
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LOL, I was confused. I thought he meant convert an entire rear 16 spline 60 to a front axle. My bad (shoulda read his signature, I guess).
 
38377k5 said:
To clarify, you would need to retube both ends of the axle, find dana 60 inner C's, find knuckles (or buy aftermarket), new inner and outer shafts with u-joints, new carrier/locker, lockouts/drive flanges, kingpins, etc. This will cost you way more than a used Chevy dana 60 (probably at least twice as much, IMO).
Click to expand...
To clarify, I think he's just talking about the carrier and gears...not the whole axle.;)

EDIT: lol, you caught it while i was posting this. i thought i'd play your game for a while and see if you caught on:p::p::p::haha:
 
Trac lok and Powr lok are 2 different limited slips.

Trac loks are what come in jeeps, and dodges, 2 spider gears, always wear out clutches, 1 piece carrier.

Poer loks have a 2 piece carrier, only for Dana axles, 4 spider gears.
 
Anyone have any good links to sites for info on this diff? I'm thinking about rebuilding it before I put it in. Also whats your opinion on this diff?
 
jk3078 said:
Anyone have any good links to sites for info on this diff? I'm thinking about rebuilding it before I put it in. Also whats your opinion on this diff?
Click to expand...

Unless you have one laying around, it seems like it would be cheaper to get a lockright. That is why I finally decided against getting one.
 
I would definetly keep the powr lok, rebuild it, get a clutch kit and put some new clutches in. Are the internals in good shape?
 
I vote for keeping the P/L as well !
I would rather have a four-pinion clutch diff than a single cross pin type locker anyday.
There are several methods to restacking the frictions and cluches to make it more aggressive.
Try and get the newer style frictions when you get parts instead of the old glued on friction steels that came O.E.M. when it was new.
Tom
 
Yea, I'm pretty sure I'm going to use it. I got the whole diff for bit more than gears alone would cost (new) so way not put it in right? Is the powr-lok difficult to rebuild? The diff looks to be in good shape but its still in the housing, havnt had a chance to pull it. Thanks
 
Its not hard to rebuild at all. Mark the case halfs, split the cases, take the clutches off the side gear as a whole, pay attention which way the belvel goes (towards the gear or case). When you put it back together, lube each clutch with limited slip additive, abd put the belvel disc in the correct way, then jsut bolt it back together.
 
Ok, found the parts, $23 each 70 side gears, $38 clutch kit. I dont know about the clutches being new or old style or smooth or abrasive. I will find that out before I buy. www.tomsdifferentials.com If you are looking for somthing and its not on the web page call him he will hook you up, this guy knows diffs!

What type of additive works best for the powr-lok? I read somthing about using tiewire on the bolts to keep them from backing out. What bolts are we talking about here and how is this done
Pics? Thanks
 
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