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Dana 60 Upgrades (With Pictures)

Those new cold forged joints from spicer seem tough. Even though they are greasable, the trunnions are much thicker because the grease channels are smaller. The zerk fitting does weaken the cross slightly but I wouldn't worry about it if I were you. Get those bad boys installed and go hammer on 'em! K5er4life is referring to "walking" the caps out by pounding the yokes in the right spot. Works great for me but you've gotta be careful not to damage the yoke. If you have access to a wide enough vise, just use the large socket/small socket method and push them out and in.
 
noahrob said:
KidJethro - There was the one with the zerk and the one without, I thought having something to grese made sense. I also noticed that the tech write up on Pirate4x45 and pavement sucks both use U-Joints with zerks...were you surprised to see zerks, or is there somethign wrong withthe U-Joints with zerks?

Today 07:47 AMK5er4Life
If I am understanding you, the short answer is push the joint through the yoke and then pull the cap off the other side...


Nothng wrong with greasables at all...I've just never seen a cold forged "life series" joint with a zerk before. And I've seen ALOT of u-joints. :D
 
OK, I need a little help. On my Dana 44 the spindle nut in the hub required a socket that had 4 little prong that stuck out of it (Picture #1). My Dana 60 is a 4 pronger too, but bigger than the 44, I believe the socket size is 2 5/8. Here is my problem, the only 2 5/8 I could find is the model where the tabs are inside the socket instead of sticking out (couldn't find a picture)...does that work?

I know som D60's are 4 prong and some are 6. I have the 4 prong, anybody know what hte socket looks liek or the size so I can get one? Help...please.

HUBTOOL1.jpg
 
I don't know the size, but i just called my snap on guy. I told him i needed it for a dana60 and he knew which one and i got it for 60.00. Not bad, Napa wanted 45 for theirs.
 
The one with the 4 splines inside is the correct one for the d60.
 
Yeah, the sticker that was on my socket said it was for furds and dodges... go figure?
 
I know, fu*k, I'm needy...So I got the axle shaft out and pounded on it, but the U-joint did not move, so then I thought I should probably take off the C- Clips first, well hey they are part of the U-Joint after 30 years, so I guess I am asking if you could explain in detail how to get the U-Joints out...

Coincedentally, the hub socket with the 4 prongs on the inside is the correct one.
 
Here are some more pics...the issue now is only that I can't get the locking hub assembly ont eh end of the new outer shaft...

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