Thanks for the tip..I just wasted another 90 minutes reading it...very very cool to have so much info available.
CK5
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Dana 60 Upgrades (With Pictures)
- Thread starter noahrob
- Start date
smokkey1
1/2 ton status
koldsimer said:
wow, that's nice to know cause I just got an military d60 a couple days ago
OK, I have been reading and reading, but still do not understand what keeps the mud out of the axle tub. In other words, I understand that the inner seals keep the dirt out of the diff, but what keeps the dirt from going in the end of the tubes around the axle?
SUBFAN
1/2 ton status
Nothing but pure chance....
atho
1/2 ton status
noahrob said:
there was a thread on pirate about someone making them, no one currently does. i still like the one guy's idea: buy one of the fun noodles (the floating kind, like for pools) and cut it to fit the axletube, then somehow get a hole in it for the axleshaft. it would work (maybe), but definite redneck/booty fab at its best.
Hub lock nuts for the Dana 60 are the 4 prongers or the 6 prongers? Need to teh socket, might as well get the correct one....
noahrob said:
The inner shafts are always 35-spline units, just some older ones necked down.
As mentioned, there is nothing that keeps dirt/water/mud out of the axle tubes. My truck sees mud on the trails almost every time out, and I've had my front axleshafts out several times, and it's never really been an issue......though I don't really like it.
I have not tried it, but one long-time fourwheeler in the club uses this trick:
- clean out the axle tube really good
- coat the axleshaft with a thin layer of grease and insert it into the tube
- fill the tube up with the expandable spray foam
He's been doing this for years and claims good luck. The spray foam keeps most of the gunk out of the tube, and the layer of grease on the shaft keeps the foam from sticking to it and tearing the foam out.
Interesting...I guess it shows that I am not very knowledgable in this area (as opposed to the many other areas that I am not knowledable about). It just seemed that if dirt and mud etc... was able to get to the inner axle seal, it would wear down quicker.
Ok, the number printed on the diff hoursing reads 640386 (might be G40386), but I have been unable to locate it on the chart on the Pirate 4x chart or with Dana2.com either... Not the end of the world, butt if anyody has any suggestions on how I locate which vehicle this axle came from, please let me know. One more question, are the U-Joint for the Dana 60 axles the big ones, like massive big? They look huge in the pictures, but the only number I can find printed ont eh U Joint itself is A4 261...Does that sound accurate?
these ones. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/Dana-60-Axle-Joints-Pair-2-Genuine-Dana-Quality_W0QQcmdZViewItemQQcategoryZ33731QQitemZ7973138332QQtcZphoto
thay are huge. the complet joint just fits flat in my hand.
thay are huge. the complet joint just fits flat in my hand.
Yup, that's them, freakin massive compared to the front drive shaft. Coincidentally, the Now Parts dude is cool as hell and ships stuff fast...
Hey Noahrob, make sure that you have the correct numbers from your axle. If I recall correctly, mine had a couple of sets of numbers on it. The one that matched up with PBB's chart was behind steering stabilizer.
The Spicer part# for the joints in the Ebay auction is 5-806x. They are "1480" series. 
1480-
From left to right- 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410, 1480
1480-
From left to right- 1310, 1330, 1350, 1410, 1480
Yeah baby...not there yet, but I am getting closer...One quesiton though...how the hell do you get the old U-Joints out?
Looks like we will be busy on Saturday, SWEET!
A Spicer 806x with a zerk? Wtf?
noahrob said:
I usually stick one end of the yoke in a vise, I dont clamp down on the yoke I just use the vise as a rest for the yoke ears to sit on. Then I take a dead blow or sledge and give the yoke that nots sitting on the vise a couple of good smacks, then flip it over and do the other side. This will work the caps out then I grab some vise grips and clamp onto the caps and pull them out. This only works if yuo are replacing u-joints because you tend to lose the needle bearings when you do this method. It has always worked great for me and makes getting the old ones out a breeze. If the way I described it doesnt make sense maybe I can try to describe it differently.
KidJethro - There was the one with the zerk and the one without, I thought having something to grese made sense. I also noticed that the tech write up on Pirate4x45 and pavement sucks both use U-Joints with zerks...were you surprised to see zerks, or is there somethign wrong withthe U-Joints with zerks?
Today 07:47 AMK5er4Life
If I am understanding you, the short answer is push the joint through the yoke and then pull the cap off the other side...
Today 07:47 AMK5er4Life
If I am understanding you, the short answer is push the joint through the yoke and then pull the cap off the other side...
