Dana 60

[6872xtc]

so the front should have no problem with 37's? Just asking.
Thank you

The front axle under your truck is the same basic housing as what the '81 to '87 K20 trucks had. The 8 lug wheel hubs and brake parts are the difference.
While looking for parts or a complete axle, I would avoid the early D44 with the large bolt on locking hub. They are more expensive to buy locking hubs than the later axles.
You will be fine using 37s on a 10B front for what you are planning to do. It will wear out ball joints a little bit faster than with stock size tires, so use quality parts.
It's cheaper than a D60.

 

[90GMCJim]

Street, fire roads, camping, 4x screwing around it will do fine if left open. Lock the rear. Save the moneys for other things

Thank you

When you say leave the front “open” and “lock” the rear. What does that mean. This is all new to me

 

[90GMCJim]

The front axle under your truck is the same basic housing as what the '81 to '87 K20 trucks had. The 8 lug wheel hubs and brake parts are the difference.
While looking for parts or a complete axle, I would avoid the early D44 with the large bolt on locking hub. They are more expensive to buy locking hubs than the later axles.
You will be fine using 37s on a 10B front for what you are planning to do. It will wear out ball joints a little bit faster than with stock size tires, so use quality parts.
It's cheaper than a D60.

Thank you

I found a post on swapping 6 lug to 8 lug for the front axle.

 

[tarussell]

Thank you

When you say leave the front “open” and “lock” the rear. What does that mean. This is all new to me

When he says “open & lock” he’s referring to the differentials in each axle.
An “open” indicates a basic differential that has no traction aid what so ever ( and is much easier on the axles and gears ) and “locked” is just a slang term used for many forms of traction aids.

There are several types of traction type differentials ranging from limited slips & posi’s ( some are more aggressive than others ) to true locking diffs ;most of us only use the term “lock” when referring to a true locking differential - meaning 100% to each axle shaft but some get loose with the verbiage and say it while referring to a limited slip or posi-traction type diff too.

 

[90GMCJim]

When he says “open & lock” he’s referring to the differentials in each axle.
An “open” indicates a basic differential that has no traction aid what so ever ( and is much easier on the axles and gears ) and “locked” is just a slang term used for many forms of traction aids.

There are several types of traction type differentials ranging from limited slips & posi’s ( some are more aggressive than others ) to true locking diffs ;most of us only use the term “lock” when referring to a true locking differential - meaning 100% to each axle shaft but some get loose with the verbiage and say it while referring to a limited slip or posi-traction type diff too ).

appreciate the explanation. Leaving the front open just changing gears to match the rear? I would benefit from adding a posi traction to the rear?

 

[tarussell]

appreciate the explanation. Leaving the front open just changing gears to match the rear? I would benefit from adding a posi traction to the rear?

If you are only ever just gonna treat it as a street queen then an open diff in the rear would be fine but if you plan on any type of off road usage then a traction aid in the rear is HIGHLY recommended.

 

[Blue85]

As for the original question, a D60 is certainly strong enough for a Blazer on 37's. It's sort of like a FF version of the GM 9.5" axle. The only advantage I can think of is that you could end up with fewer spare parts if you also have a front D60. My guess is you can sell the D60 to a Jeep guy, buy some version of GM 10.5" axle and have money left over.

 

[90GMCJim]

As for the original question, a D60 is certainly strong enough for a Blazer on 37's. It's sort of like a FF version of the GM 9.5" axle. The only advantage I can think of is that you could end up with fewer spare parts if you also have a front D60. My guess is you can sell the D60 to a Jeep guy, buy some version of GM 10.5" axle and have money left over.

I found a 14 bolt AAM 10.5 for $500 with brakes.

The D60 rear I have already is why I was asking. Sounds like more money to get it going. I see them for sale cheap locally $2-300 dollars

 

[imiceman44]

I understand using what you already have, but i would recommend going with a 14B as @Bent77 suggested.
I may be wrong, but I believe that the rear D60 has axle splines which are more coarse, (fewer) than the 14B which makes them wear more. And the fact that the 14 was built for so many years with a higher production quantity means that there are more out there and more parts available.

If he got it from a 72, it's a full floater with 32 spline shafts, same as the 14bff but the ring and pinion are smaller and only 2 pinion bearings vs 3 on the 14 bolt.
It is for that reason a little more clearance and depending on the intended use could be a good option.
37" is not a huge tire and that axle will easily handle it for typical off road use.
I wouldn't use it for rock humping or racing that's for sure.
To the OP if you want to use it, it's not a bad axle and it is just as strong as the 14bsf but has full float axles.
If you had to buy one I would buy a 14bff.
I happen to have both and I will be using both each in a different vehicle for different purposes

 

[imiceman44]

As for the original question, a D60 is certainly strong enough for a Blazer on 37's. It's sort of like a FF version of the GM 9.5" axle. The only advantage I can think of is that you could end up with fewer spare parts if you also have a front D60. My guess is you can sell the D60 to a Jeep guy, buy some version of GM 10.5" axle and have money left over.

Weird I didn't see your post and I just pretty much said the same thing

 

[90GMCJim]

If he got it from a 72, it's a full floater with 32 spline shafts, same as the 14bff but the ring and pinion are smaller and only 2 pinion bearings vs 3 on the 14 bolt.
It is for that reason a little more clearance and depending on the intended use could be a good option.
37" is not a huge tire and that axle will easily handle it for typical off road use.
I wouldn't use it for rock humping or racing that's for sure.
To the OP if you want to use it, it's not a bad axle and it is just as strong as the 14bsf but has full float axles.
If you had to buy one I would buy a 14bff.
I happen to have both and I will be using both each in a different vehicle for different purposes

Thank you. I figured the D60 with gears and new axles would almost be the same as buying a 14bff and gears.
37’s with 4.56 gears?

 

[imiceman44]

Thank you. I figured the D60 with gears and new axles would almost be the same as buying a 14bff and gears.
37’s with 4.56 gears?

What engine? What transmission?
With my big block I can pull it off, with a 350 you need 4.88, with an overdrive you can even go higher

 

[90GMCJim]

What engine? What transmission?
With my big block I can pull it off, with a 350 you need 4.88, with an overdrive you can even go higher

350. The guy said it has overdrive. Assuming 700r?
After doing research last night. I might stick to 35s. Sounds like less work and less trimming

This truck will mostly on see the streets.

 

[tarussell]

If he got it from a 72, it's a full floater with 32 spline shafts, same as the 14bff but the ring and pinion are smaller and only 2 pinion bearings vs 3 on the 14 bolt.
It is for that reason a little more clearance and depending on the intended use could be a good option.
37" is not a huge tire and that axle will easily handle it for typical off road use.
I wouldn't use it for rock humping or racing that's for sure.
To the OP if you want to use it, it's not a bad axle and it is just as strong as the 14bsf but has full float axles.
If you had to buy one I would buy a 14bff.
I happen to have both and I will be using both each in a different vehicle for different purposes

The Dana 60 axles in the 72 GM trucks used 30-splines at 1.31” not 32-splines - and while the 14FF does use 30-splines they are not similar to the size of the Dana axle because they have a major diameter of just over 1.5” making them much stronger in the 14B.

Just keeping the info on track for quality sake.

 

[imiceman44]

The Dana 60 axles in the 72 GM trucks used 30-splines at 1.31” not 32-splines - and while the 14FF does use 30-splines they are not similar to the size of the Dana axle because they have a major diameter of just over 1.5” making them much stronger in the 14B.

Just keeping the info on track for quality sake.

Thanks for correcting me, I have way too many things going on in my head that I got confused.
My response was to the post saying it's coarse splines, and that was in jeeps.
And yes the d60 is same spline count as the 14bff but smaller diameter, still strong enough for his purposes I feel.

 

[imiceman44]

350. The guy said it has overdrive. Assuming 700r?
After doing research last night. I might stick to 35s. Sounds like less work and less trimming

This truck will mostly on see the streets.

If you stick with 35" tires, a 4.56 axle will be great with your overdrive.
If you use your d60 which most likely is 4.10, you'll be ok on the streets thanks to the first gear in the 700r4 but you won't be racing at the stoplights.
I had a suburban with the 350/700r4 3.73 rear and 33" tires.
It ran ok but I never felt like I had a v8.
Then the axle broke and I had the chance to upgrade to 14bff and I got a 4.10.
What a pleasant surprise it was, it ran as it should but soon I wanted 35" tires when my tires were done so I was back to ok.
My other suburban now on 35" tires and 4.10 has a big 454 and I am always looking for someone who thinks they can race me. Well the tesla still beats me off the line

 

[Wes Harden]

With the 700r4 you can go 5.13
I have 4.88 on 33s and feel I should have gone to 5.13 or 5.33.
5.33 in overdrive equals 3.73, a good gear ratio for cruising a heavy truck down the highway, with small cubic inches.
37s with 5.13 at 65mph is 2150 rpm just below most 350s power band

 

[tarussell]

Thanks for correcting me, I have way too many things going on in my head that I got confused.
My response was to the post saying it's coarse splines, and that was in jeeps.
And yes the d60 is same spline count as the 14bff but smaller diameter, still strong enough for his purposes I feel.

I understand completely - so much information we’ve all gathered over the years it’s very easy to get our wires crossed.

I can’t recall when Dana dropped the 16-spline axles in favor for the 30-spline - I thought it was 1969 but they could have phased the change in at different times for different applications?

 

[imiceman44]

I understand completely - so much information we’ve all gathered over the years it’s very easy to get our wires crossed.

I can’t recall when Dana dropped the 16-spline axles in favor for the 30-spline - I thought it was 1969 but they could have phased the change in at different times for different applications?

I can't remember either but every 60s c20 I parted had the 30 spline, I even have an extra shaft for a spare in case I break one. But I don't believe I had any earlier than 69 so I can not confirm

 

[90GMCJim]

I can't remember either but every 60s c20 I parted had the 30 spline, I even have an extra shaft for a spare in case I break one. But I don't believe I had any earlier than 69 so I can not confirm

My c20 was a big block camper special.

I believe it might be 3.54