I think many of the GM oem production line parts are made in China. A large number of of replacement parts we order directly from gm made in China.
So much for American jobs.
So much for American jobs.CK5
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Dead Lifter...Maybe! (update)
- Thread starter 1-ton
- Start date
ACDelco Professional Disc Brake Rotors provide reliable vehicle braking power and are an ideal premium aftermarket replacement for your GM and non-GM vehicle. Most advertisements say Duralast
Duralast ....
isn't that AutoZone
isn't that AutoZone
Don't forget there is now a city in China named Usa...specifically so they can honestly say it was made in USA.
No matter where the AC Delco parts are made, I still find them to be better, and more reliable than most other aftermarket brands for my truck. I think they have better QC vs other brands
I think the problem might be that I have a piece of the TBI injector electrical connector (that went bad) break off, and go into one of the combustion chambers. This piece of plastic may be bouncing around off of the valves in one my number 2 or 4 cylinder. I have to remove the intake manifold to see. There is something going on internally and not externally in my engine.
That changes the whole situation.
How long have you known about the possibility?
Wow I would expect plastic to melt then burn away. You are talking about the squeeze tabs on the injector connector? Do you have a dual plane intake manifold? If so 2 and 4 are feed from different sides. Bore scope would be an alternative to r&r intake
It wouldn't melt in the intake if it didn't make it through the valve opening
True, it would have to be a big piece of plastic not to get chewed up by the valve, then melted. I suppose it could aslo mess up flow of air fuel causing a weak hole.
If there is something in the engine it is in the intake port above the valves, and not in the combustion chamber itself. The piece of plastic would be too big to get trapped in-between the valve and the valve seat. The piece would just be bouncing around in the intake port. I have only driven my truck about 10-miles since this problem started.
I have norrowed the problem down to the number #2 cylinder exhaust valve hanging up or bent, and loosing compression through it. I am going to take the head off to fix the problem.
That’s a bummer...
I finally got my beast going again. I had to remove the right bank head, and have it fixed at a machine shop after only 5000 miles on a new crate engine. It seems to be running fine now. I need to drive it around some more, in order for the ECM to re-learn every thing again.
An exhaust valve in the #2 cylinder was going bad, and not sealing well. The valve was also sticking in the valve guide, and causing the valve train to not function properly. I caught it very quickly after it started happening, and got the problem fixed before it led to more damage to the engine. My engine only ran for about 10-miles with the bad valve before I fixed it.
That is one reason my 28-year old truck is in such decent shape. This beast has probably spent about 15-years of it's life just sitting. When I bought the thing in 2002 it had been sitting in an RV parking space along side a house in Las Vegas since 1998. I mostly retired the thing to another RV parking space an long side my house in Lincoln County NV in 2007, and then inside a commercial building, until about 3-years ago, when I moved back to Las Vegas.
Didn't even skim the thread, just the last couple posts, but did you contact GM about this? Kind of curious if they said it's warranty work and what they would do for you...
GM states that a certified GM tech must do the installation of the engine for the warranty to cover it. I did the install myself, and I did a couple of mods to the engine that would kill the warranty as well...like an aftermarket cam and lifters, steel sleeve oil pump shaft, anti-cam walk button, rocker arm balls with oil grooves, and other little mods that make for a stronger engine.
