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Destroyed the rear drive shaft

HawK5

HawK5

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Well I was attempting a decent rock climb, the back tires were down in a hole and I used the skinny pedal to try and drive it out and up, the truck took a big hop and bang!! The rear drive and yoke became a mangled mess. Thankfully the front drive shaft stayed intact and I got tow strapped out to the forest service road before driving it home in FWD..

After examining the mess it appears the axle wrap was causing the pinion guard to contact the drive shaft and then the big hop and power caused it to dig in and the rest is history..

So aside from fixing the broken stuff do you guys have any recommendations for anti wrap? Seems like there’s quite a few way to address it, I’m hoping for a relatively inexpensive option that doesn’t require welding and won’t limit suspension travel..
Also reading the 14 bolt bible seems like I should convert the rear pinion yoke to the U bolt style yoke vs the strap style. Is it possible to just remove the nut and replace the yoke? I really don’t want to take the diff apart..

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Swapping the yoke isn't a huge job, you just have to keep the preload the same.
Do a shackle flip or get lift springs to get rid of some axle wrap caused by the blocks. Most traction bars are going to require some welding to the axle housing at least.
 
It’s probably gonna be a bitch to remove that yoke in the truck. Pull the whole pinion support assembly and press the pinion out of the yoke.

Lose the blocks and a universal traction bar can help a lot. Avoid the bushings imo, they deflect and still wrap a little.
 
blocks = axle wrap multiplier device

do i see shims under the blocks ? if so ditch them and get new HD weld on perches and set pinion angle correctly .

go axle flip or lift leafs or mix of both half and half to get desired height .

blazer lifted more than 3-4" needs rear c/v shaft for angles . get the f250-f350 front 1350 shaft and shorten it and get the tcase flange for it .

traction bar https://www.offroaddesign.com/radius-arm-traction-bar.html

yoke kit https://www.offroaddesign.com/1350-...olt-u-bolt-style-with-bolt-kit-forged-us.html

hd perches https://www.offroaddesign.com/pair-...bolt-3-3-8-diameter-tube-2-5-wide-spring.html

i built this blazer for him and did a lot of this stuff my self and others are talking . go read up and look it over for some good part#'s and info . i posted a lot of pics and info . it rolls on 37" tires and 1 hand on the wheel 75+mph super nice . i had it to 90mph and still smooth and rode great . flexes out real good for off the shelf stuff . https://ck5.com/forums/threads/3-to...-its-alive-and-on-the-road-having-fun.336341/
 
cheavyk10 said:
Those tall lift blocks you are running are a big cause for axle wrap.
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Yeah I figured the axle blocks were the culprit.. thinking I’ll do the shackle flip kit..

How do you keep the preload the same? Just put the axle on jack stands, measure it with one of the torque wrenches that doesn’t click but has the needle, then tighten until it’s the same?

It’s got less then a few thousand miles since it was re geared, is the yoke still going to have to be pressed off?

I’ve seen that flipping the overload spring adds articulation. Do you literally just turn it over?

I added The shims(reverse from normal) as the axle perches were clocked but it seemed over clocked as the yoke was actually pointed up compared to the drive shaft, but I’ve read that the drive shaft angle just needs to match to the transfer case so I’ll have to check it out once I get the flip kit on.

I think the truck already has a SYE on the back of the T-case? But maybe I don’t exactly understand what was factory..

Double tree: I can’t tell from your pics what I’m looking at?
 
Here is the tcase and tcase side of the rear drive shaft

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So your saying removing the 6 bolts, have the old yoke pressed off and new yoke pressed on? Isnt it shimmed for ring and pinion clearance/contact area? So I shouldn’t need to adjust or check any of that? Does the preload still need to be setup? If so how would I do that?
 
NP205 tcase factory fixed yoke 32 spline output .

14ff is shimmed between axle housing and bolt in pinion support . Bolt in support just needs bearing preload torque set is all .

You got lots of GOOD options here now with that pic of tcase . Go skim the build thread i linked . Same tcase and how i did c/v drive shaft on the cheep .
 
Ok so I see the 99-15 F250-F350 front CV drive shaft, do you have a link to the tcase adaptor? Is this something you can shorten yourself or does it require a driveshaft shop to shorten? Being a front drive shaft, is it as strong as the rear shaft I have? Or just smoother/happier with the CV?
doubletrouble said:
These are what I like, tighten them down and you’re good.

View attachment 506746
Click to expand...
@doubletrouble, I can’t tell what these are? They look like blocks that go on a yoke? Is this for the Tcase adaptor for the Ford cv drive shaft?
 
HawK5 said:
Ok so I see the 99-15 F250-F350 front CV drive shaft, do you have a link to the tcase adaptor? Is this something you can shorten yourself or does it require a driveshaft shop to shorten? Being a front drive shaft, is it as strong as the rear shaft I have? Or just smoother/happier with the CV?

@doubletrouble, I can’t tell what these are? They look like blocks that go on a yoke? Is this for the Tcase adaptor for the Ford cv drive shaft?
Click to expand...
Unless you have tooling for that shortening a driveshaft is better left for a shop.
As for pictures, these are a better alternative to straps because they are a solid block that covers the whole cap and doesn't deflect.
 
You can remove the 14bff yoke with a dampner puller. Getting it back on isn't as easy. Don't want to pound on it.
Crush sleeve eliminator shims are better. Once preload is correct torque nut and good to go.

There is a shim between pinion support assembly and housing,just reuse.
 
Wes Harden said:
You can remove the 14bff yoke with a dampner puller. Getting it back on isn't as easy. Don't want to pound on it.
Crush sleeve eliminator shims are better. Once preload is correct torque nut and good to go.

There is a shim between pinion support assembly and housing,just reuse.
Click to expand...
Since we're on the subject, if I want to transfer the guts from one housing to another, do I use the shims from the housing or the ones from the pinion assembly?
 
I’d start with the shim from the pinion assembly and hope for the best.
The more modern the housings, the better chances you have of it working out.
 
imiceman44 said:
Since we're on the subject, if I want to transfer the guts from one housing to another, do I use the shims from the housing or the ones from the pinion assembly?
Click to expand...
I would match shims to the housing. It's the least precise in terms of overall dimensional tolerances. IME setting up gears, usually starting with the old shims from that housing gets you pretty close.
 
Blue85 said:
The issue with the caps is that the greater height reduces the amount of angle you can run without binding. More of a race car thing than off-road.
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Very true, so it's good in positions that require strength more than angular availability.
I have found that the straps are adequate enough for most situations, and if one is not familiar with the details, a strap yoke has more depth to contain the caps and the strap is just there to keep it from pulling out while the ubolt style is more shallow and relies more on the ubolt.
All commercial caps are either strap or full circle yoke with the caps bolting in from the side.
Someone should make a yoke like that for our truck, it's the ultimate in strength while still allowing bigger angles.
 
Wes Harden said:
You can remove the 14bff yoke with a dampner puller. Getting it back on isn't as easy. Don't want to pound on it.
Crush sleeve eliminator shims are better. Once preload is correct torque nut and good to go.

There is a shim between pinion support assembly and housing,just reuse.
Click to expand...
I did have a crush sleeve eliminator installed, does that simplify that yoke removal and install? I have or will buy whatever pullers I need..
If I have to modify the F250/350 front shaft, then I assume cost wise is close to having mine repaired? I’ll probably have ti take mine in and send pics to get a rough idea..
Read all the things recommended and searched, still wondering what the advantage of the ford shaft is over mine? I’m running a 300hp 350, 35”s (some day 37s-38s) and 4.56s w/ rear locker, the drive shaft, u joints, straps, and yoke didn’t break from overload, they broke from axle wrap allowing the yoke guard to twist up and bite into the drive shaft.. then the carnage happened.
I know I have to have address the axle wrap before anymore wheeling, but I wanna get it back on the road for the summer, so fixing the yoke and drive shaft is the immediate priority.. I’m always looking to upgrade parts that break, but not at an unnecessary cost..
 
If you are resizing driveshaft, playing with leafs, possibly a trac bar...go all the way and flip some 56" leafs reversed so they move the axle back 4" with your flip. It helps in every way. Only downfall is shock mounting.

It's just good timing if you're already changing and spending money on other things.

Or just fix the driveshaft and keep rolling with what ya got :waytogo:
 
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