What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

Destroyed the rear drive shaft

I’m kind of in the “get it back on the road now” then “ fix the cause of the axle wrap when the money is there.. (prior to hard wheeling)
so I’m trying to figure out if the ford drive shaft has a cost/benefit?

As far ditching the lift blocks, done some reading, seems like options are
lift leafs ranging from $300-$1000 depending on performance you’re looking for.
Shackle flip kit, requires more work but probably better performance in the less than $500 price range versus similarly priced lift leafs.. thoughts?
 
HawK5 said:
I’m kind of in the “get it back on the road now” then “ fix the cause of the axle wrap when the money is there.. (prior to hard wheeling)
so I’m trying to figure out if the ford drive shaft has a cost/benefit?

As far ditching the lift blocks, done some reading, seems like options are
lift leafs ranging from $300-$1000 depending on performance you’re looking for.
Shackle flip kit, requires more work but probably better performance in the less than $500 price range versus similarly priced lift leafs.. thoughts?
Click to expand...
The Ford shaft would be the one to use if you do a shackle flip, you will want to point your axle up towards the tail housing and the CV will take care of the rest.
If you're staying with blocks or lift springs and your angles were good then fix your driveshaft.
I would opt for the shackle flip
 
Your new driveshaft can always be used to make a CV shaft later. Should be long enough to cut down a little for the CV. I vote keep rolling with the blocks and understand the limit.

Rear leafs are 52 or 56" long?
 
I think the advice on driveshaft depends on how you'll be addressing the axle wrap. The 2 basic choices are an anti-wrap bar and getting rid of the blocks. There's no reason you can't do both in the short-term or long-term.

If you get rid of the blocks (which you should), you're either looking at a shackle flip or a set of lift springs. Aftermarket lift springs are probably stiff enough that axle wrap will be at a tolerable level, but the ride will be stiffer. The shackle flip is harder to install, but more or less maintains ride quality. If you do the shackle flip, that usually comes pretty close to setting a K5 up for a C/V driveshaft. With lift springs, it usually takes some serious shims. The C/V shaft is the long-term solution to driveshaft vibrations and having to change U-joints often. The exception here is probably a set of ORD custom springs, which can get the pinion angle close to what you want, relocate the axle if you want and just bolt in.

Other than some old school anti-wrap bars or JC Whitney gimmicks, most anti-wrap setups will require some welding. The big question setting one up is whether your pinion angle is for single-joint or C/V shaft. Long-term, you shouldn't base anything in back around having lift blocks, but conceptually that pinion angle would be the same if you pull the blocks later for lift springs and keep the single-joint driveshaft setup.
 
I guess I hadn’t considered the CV drive shaft requires a different angle than the current shaft. If I understand correctly, you want the tcase out and rearend yoke clocked at the same angle for a non-CV shaft?

The rear axle was already clocked by the PO, in fact I think it was over clocked, the rear yoke points above the drive shaft angle, further impacting the angle when the axle wraps up.. but I haven’t measured it to compare to the T case output.. So a shackle flip would actually make this worse then, as lowering the back of the spring would in theory point the pinion yoke up even more right?

Sounds like the best way to ditch the blocks is with some lift leafs.. and unless I cut the spring pads off and re-clock the axle, with it pointing closer to straight at the tcase. Maybe I’d be better off with the CV shaft..
 
Last edited:
HawK5 said:
I guess I hadn’t considered the CV drive shaft requires a different angle than the current shaft. If I understand correctly, you want the tcase out and rearend yoke clocked at the same angle for a non-CV shaft?

The rear axle was already clocked by the PO, in fact I think it was over clocked, the rear yoke points above the drive shaft angle, further impacting the angle when the axle wraps up.. but I haven’t measured it to compare to the T case output.. So a shackle flip would actually make this worse then, as lowering the back of the spring would in theory point the pinion yoke up even more right?

Sounds like the best way to ditch the blocks is with some lift leafs.. and unless I got the spring pads of and re-click the axle, with it pointing closer to straight at the tcase. Maybe I’d be better off with the CV shaft..
Click to expand...
1750869947840.png
 
You can barely see the angle in this pic but hopefully you get the idea

IMG_0415.jpeg
 
Without a CV and your pinion pointed up like that I'm surprised you don't have major vibrations. It'll definitely wear out your u-joints quickly. Break out the angle finder and see where you're at.
Also here's another pic of the Great Lake Off Road yoke girdles that @doubletrouble shared before. This is a Ruff Stuff pinion guard, and it's longer than the Barnes version I have on my K10. IMG_20250207_133527524_HDR.jpg
 
Last edited:
HawK5 said:
I did have a crush sleeve eliminator installed, does that simplify that yoke removal and install? I have or will buy whatever pullers I need..
If I have to modify the F250/350 front shaft, then I assume cost wise is close to having mine repaired? I’ll probably have ti take mine in and send pics to get a rough idea..
Read all the things recommended and searched, still wondering what the advantage of the ford shaft is over mine? I’m running a 300hp 350, 35”s (some day 37s-38s) and 4.56s w/ rear locker, the drive shaft, u joints, straps, and yoke didn’t break from overload, they broke from axle wrap allowing the yoke guard to twist up and bite into the drive shaft.. then the carnage happened.
I know I have to have address the axle wrap before anymore wheeling, but I wanna get it back on the road for the summer, so fixing the yoke and drive shaft is the immediate priority.. I’m always looking to upgrade parts that break, but not at an unnecessary cost..
Click to expand...
I’ve got some pretty serious pullers at my disposal. And the last yoke I did on my 14 bolt was no fun getting it off. It came off, but, it was very much a fight.
Hopefully yours is much easier…
 
You can do a CV style shaft with the yoke you have. You can use that yoke or go "flange" mount like the item you posted.

That yoke you have now is nice. I had to shell out a lot more to get a flange on my 241 or 208.
 
And since you are in the market for a new driveshaft, make it work for what you currently have.

Unless I'm missing something. Hope someone can Admonish me if so lol.
 
cheavyk10 said:
Without a CV and your pinion pointed up like that I'm surprised you don't have major vibrations. It'll definitely wear out your u-joints quickly. Break out the angle finder and see where you're at.
Also here's another pic of the Great Lake Off Road yoke girdles that @doubletrouble shared before. This is a Ruff Stuff pinion guard, and it's longer than the Barnes version I have on my K10. View attachment 507000
Click to expand...
Yes that’s a great pic of what I was suggesting.
 
www.partsmike.com

NP205 / Atlas Transfer Case Flange, Driveshaft Companion Flange, 32 Sp

1310/1350/1410 series flange can be used with CV or non-CV drive line flange yokes. Works with any 32 spline output shaft in the front or rear of a transfer case by using the correct 2-1/8" ID seal. 32 spline output shafts are commonly found in Atlas, GM HD, and NP205 transfer cases. The...
www.partsmike.com www.partsmike.com
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom