85 Shortbox
1/2 ton status
Thanks for all the help on this, can I assume also that these perform well in front axles also??
CK5
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Detroits vs Lock Rights
- Thread starter morphed86k10
- Start date
have lock-rites front and rear in gm 10 bolts with 33 12.50's and mostly drive on the street. no problems in about 2000 miles on the rear . takes a little getting use with the poping if you get hard on the corner and the torque steer if you let of the gas in a sweeping corner, but nothing drastic, you just weave a little.
when the hubs are locked you notice it in the front when turning, it wants to pull the truck straight.
chris
when the hubs are locked you notice it in the front when turning, it wants to pull the truck straight.
chris
I agree, I have heard the EZ breaks much "easier", but I have a delima - I have the EZ locker up front and Lock-Right in the rear and I broke the Lock-Right at Disney. I have not pulled the cover to see what exactly is broken, but Im pretty sure its toast. I have a detroit to install in its place.
Morphed - were really are not comparing apples to apples here. Full case vs. drop in. Detroit is the best - bar none when it comes to strength. ARB is a pricey alternative and a close second in strength. Really you should consider these factors:
How often do you wheel and whats your wheeling style? Do you have the gears you want or do you want to re-gear in the future requiring a new case (required if going from 3.33-4.10 to 4.56 - 7.17), it is probably just as expensive to buy a new open carrier and install a Lock-Right as it would be to buy a Detroit in the correct carrier size.
I would say under 38" tires the Lock Right will survive a long time of trail use-abuse. Like I said, I still have not pulled the cover to see what exactly is wrong. Could be a sheared pin or something simple. It still pulls the vechicle down the highway, but it bangs and pops more than usual. On long grades during highway travel, it pulls left and right - pops and bangs.
I bought my Pop-Right used and cheap, same with the EZ Locker. I have wheeled for a year straight on both lockers and never had problems until now. I may skip the future problem up front and buy a Detroit as well.
Morphed - were really are not comparing apples to apples here. Full case vs. drop in. Detroit is the best - bar none when it comes to strength. ARB is a pricey alternative and a close second in strength. Really you should consider these factors:
How often do you wheel and whats your wheeling style? Do you have the gears you want or do you want to re-gear in the future requiring a new case (required if going from 3.33-4.10 to 4.56 - 7.17), it is probably just as expensive to buy a new open carrier and install a Lock-Right as it would be to buy a Detroit in the correct carrier size.
I would say under 38" tires the Lock Right will survive a long time of trail use-abuse. Like I said, I still have not pulled the cover to see what exactly is wrong. Could be a sheared pin or something simple. It still pulls the vechicle down the highway, but it bangs and pops more than usual. On long grades during highway travel, it pulls left and right - pops and bangs.
I bought my Pop-Right used and cheap, same with the EZ Locker. I have wheeled for a year straight on both lockers and never had problems until now. I may skip the future problem up front and buy a Detroit as well.
Robbie6987
1/2 ton status
It should if your not on the gas.
So bacially if your on the gas the LR is LOCKED if you spin at all its LOCKED and if you try to spin a donut its LOCKED and the only time its unlocked is when your turning and your foots is completely off the gas. is this right? If so I dont see why anyone would want any other kind of locker
A lockright and a detroit locker preform the exact same function. A Detroit is better, but a lockright is cheaper and easier. I have a lockright in my D60 front with 4.10 gears and 44" TSL's. I broke a hub, then twisted the splines on my stubshafts. The lockright looked just like new when I pulled the diff cover during the D70 Stubshaft install. When I go 4wheeling, I lock the hubs as soon as I hit dirt. Until I shift into 4wheel drive, you can't even tell the LR is there. Depending on traction and how much throttle you are giving it...it may or may not lock in a turn. I have never had it fail to pull both front tires. Eventually I will regear and at that time I may pop for a detroit (unless something better is affordable at that time)
twenty_below0
1/2 ton status
Another vote for the Pop right, I have between 350 and 375 h.p. I romp the piss out of mine with a 12 bolt 3:73's and 35's,twisted an axle this spring but the pop right is still workin good, you will get alot of looks from people as you turn corners in town and it's just a popping away but I have been happy with the durability of this one so far!
It depends on whether the locking teeth are engaged or not at the time. Typically when under load, such as when accelerating around a corner, it will stay locked. You don't necessarily have to completely coast (foot all the way off the gas) to get it to unlock. If you are just under light load to maintain vehicle speed it may stay unlocked.
