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Diesel Tach

k20

3/4 ton status
Joined
Sep 9, 2001
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Location
Mineral Springs, NC
Hey y'all, just got done installing full autometer gauges in my K20, so now I have an autometer tach that was in my k20 that I was wondering if I could install it in my CUCV. How would you go about hooking it up since there is no ignition? Thanks guys
 
You have to install a vaccum pump that has an engine speed sensor on it, then build a signal conditioning circuit that converts the AC sawtooth waveform it generates into the proper DC squarewave that the tachometer uses.

Another option is to hook the tach up to one of the diodes in the alternator, then modify that signal to output at the proper frequency

The most common method is to install two magnets onto the harmonic balancer and use a hall effect sensor to count the number of crankshaft rotations.
 
What all would be needed for a tach signal period? like for the factory tach setup or otherwise. Curious because I will be installing my 4l80e setup soon and most of the after market controllers require a tach input signal to function properly.

Remington
 
Gasoline tach uses a DC square wave. The input to the tach's signal wire is normally 12V, but as the coil discharges it causes a temporary drop in voltage which is what the tachometer is looking for. The faster the pulses / drops in voltage occur, the higher the RPM reading that is displayed.

The alternator diode option can be a bit of a tough one to use, becuase any changes in the pulley size will mean that you will have to totally re-calibrate the tachometer. Calibrating is is a bother as it is.

Installing the magnets on the crankshaft with a hall effect sensor is easy to do (just be sure you install them 180 degrees apart for an accurate signal), and doesn't require any calibration, but it is easy for the magnets to fly off, or for the hall effect sensor to get damaged.

I am personally gonna use the ESS vaccum pump for my factory tach. The signal conditioner is cheap and easy to make by yourself. Involves a power transistor, capacitator and 4 resistors. All easily found on e-bay. If you want to go this route, I can provide you with a diagram to make the circuit yourself.
 
Ok, uber writeup time! First things first, a BIG thanks to Lee Swanger from www.thedieselpage.com for coming up with the circuit, I had no part in developing this one myself :)

Now, I know most of you are going to take one look at this circuit and look a bit like this -> :eek1: but it is actually a pretty simple concept.

First things first, I should explain what exactly a transistor is. A transistor is basically two diodes connected together. Diodes are basically one way check valves for electrical current. They flow current like a bare wire in one direction, but allow very little current to flow through in the other direction. When you put the diode in so current flows through it, it is said to be forward biased, when it blocks flow, it is said to be reverse biased.

One side of the diode is called the cathode, and the other is called the anode, but when it comes to transistors, the cathode is the "N" junction, and the anode is the "P" junction. Depending on how the diodes are mated together in the transistor is called either a PNP or NPN transistor. The only difference is if the cathodes are connected together (PNP) or if the anodes are connected together (NPN).

Every transistor has three poles on it, one is called the collector, another the emitter and the third is the base. The collector and emitter are the ends of the diodes that are not connected together, and the base is the terminal that is attached to the connection between the other two ends of the diodes.

I won't get into why or how, but a transistor is capable of being in three basic modes. One is called cutoff, another is called saturation, and the third is called the active mode. When you operate a transistor in saturation or cutoff mode, it operates just like a switch, either allowing current to pass, or not(I'll let you guess which mode is which). When it is in active mode the transistor acts as an amplifier and increases the size of the input signal.

Now, since the stock engines speed sensor outputs the triangular looking signal, we want a way to clip the signal and convert it into a square wave which most gasoline tachometers use. To do this, we want to have some way to make the transistor output a 9 - 14 volt square signal when the sawtooth waveform is at one point in its cycle, and make it into a 0 volt signal at another point in it's cycle. What we do to pull this off is use the transistor as a tiny relay that is either on or off depending on the input signal.

Since I have not looked at the ESS signal on an oscillioscope myself, I can't say for sure exactly where in the signal the change happens, but what you see below should be accurate enough for our purposes.

Basically, when the sawtooth waveform goes positive, the base is given enough current to put the transistor into saturation, which closes the circuit and allows power to pass into the tachometer. When the sawtooth waveform goes negative, it opens the circuit and provides the sudden loss of voltage that the tachometer is looking for. Becuase the transistor is switched on at a certain point, the voltage of the input signal doesn't make any difference to the circuit's operation, just the frequency. Since the transistor is switching full battery power on and off, the tachometer gets the proper square wave signal it is looking for and displays the approriate engines speed based on that signal.

The resistor sizing changes how the transistor behaves, and when it will go into saturation / cutoff essentially setting conditioning the circuit to work with your V8 tachometer. The capacitator is used to clean the signal up for conversions so you can eliminate any spikes in ESS signal that could put the transistor into the wrong mode and make the tachometer read incorrectly.

If that made no sense, don't worry about it, just hook the circuit up the way you see it and enjoy! If you understand this stuff, and I made no sense, I apologize, just learned how to do this stuff a couple weeks ago at school :haha:

001.jpg
 
Ok, uber writeup time! First things first, a BIG thanks to Lee Swanger from for coming up with the circuit, I had no part in developing this one myself :)

Now, I know most of you are going to take one look at this circuit and look a bit like this -> :eek1: but it is actually a pretty simple concept.

First things first, I should explain what exactly a transistor is. A transistor is basically two diodes connected together. Diodes are basically one way check valves for electrical current. They flow current like a bare wire in one direction, but allow very little current to flow through in the other direction. When you put the diode in so current flows through it, it is said to be forward biased, when it blocks flow, it is said to be reverse biased.

One side of the diode is called the cathode, and the other is called the anode, but when it comes to transistors, the cathode is the "N" junction, and the anode is the "P" junction. Depending on how the diodes are mated together in the transistor is called either a PNP or NPN transistor. The only difference is if the cathodes are connected together (PNP) or if the anodes are connected together (NPN).

Every transistor has three poles on it, one is called the collector, another the emitter and the third is the base. The collector and emitter are the ends of the diodes that are not connected together, and the base is the terminal that is attached to the connection between the other two ends of the diodes.

I won't get into why or how, but a transistor is capable of being in three basic modes. One is called cutoff, another is called saturation, and the third is called the active mode. When you operate a transistor in saturation or cutoff mode, it operates just like a switch, either allowing current to pass, or not(I'll let you guess which mode is which). When it is in active mode the transistor acts as an amplifier and increases the size of the input signal.

Now, since the stock engines speed sensor outputs the triangular looking signal, we want a way to clip the signal and convert it into a square wave which most gasoline tachometers use. To do this, we want to have some way to make the transistor output a 9 - 14 volt square signal when the sawtooth waveform is at one point in its cycle, and make it into a 0 volt signal at another point in it's cycle. What we do to pull this off is use the transistor as a tiny relay that is either on or off depending on the input signal.

Since I have not looked at the ESS signal on an oscillioscope myself, I can't say for sure exactly where in the signal the change happens, but what you see below should be accurate enough for our purposes.

Basically, when the sawtooth waveform goes positive, the base is given enough current to put the transistor into saturation, which closes the circuit and allows power to pass into the tachometer. When the sawtooth waveform goes negative, it opens the circuit and provides the sudden loss of voltage that the tachometer is looking for. Becuase the transistor is switched on at a certain point, the voltage of the input signal doesn't make any difference to the circuit's operation, just the frequency. Since the transistor is switching full battery power on and off, the tachometer gets the proper square wave signal it is looking for and displays the approriate engines speed based on that signal.

The resistor sizing changes how the transistor behaves, and when it will go into saturation / cutoff essentially setting conditioning the circuit to work with your V8 tachometer. The capacitator is used to clean the signal up for conversions so you can eliminate any spikes in ESS signal that could put the transistor into the wrong mode and make the tachometer read incorrectly.

If that made no sense, don't worry about it, just hook the circuit up the way you see it and enjoy! If you understand this stuff, and I made no sense, I apologize, just learned how to do this stuff a couple weeks ago at school :haha:

cant read what transistor this is.... clarification anyone?
and where is the input from?

I am an aviation electronic tech for the navy, this made perfect sense. i couldnt have made it simpler. brilliant!

thanks
 
you canget a pulse adapter and clip it to your #1 injector line, it has a little amplifier in it, and it creates an electronic signal.

I've used diesel timing lights that have these as part of the kit. Sounds WAAAAY easier than what you guys are talking about.
 
My apologizes on the chicken scratch!

The part number you are looking for is TIP3055. You don't have to use that specific power transistor, there are plenty of others that'll do the same job without any ill effects.

As far as the inputs go, you want to run one wire from the engine speed sensor to the base of the transistor through the capacitor, and put the other to chassis ground. The tachometer hooks directly up to the collector of the transistor.

As complicated as it all sounds, actually putting the circuit together and hooking everything up is about a 10 minute ordeal overall. I've been running this circuit with my factory gasoline tachometer since I put this writeup together without any trouble :)
 
clipping the sensor on the injection line and running the wire off it to the tach is still easier. no matter how you look at it.
 
You'd still need to double the tach signal, assuming it outputs an 8 - 14 volt square wave signal in the first place, since it'd only produce a single pulse per engine revolution.
 
Last edited:
Maybe because you only get a pulse at any one injector once every 2 rpm?

Rene
 

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