1. Jack up rear and place on stands. Chock front wheels.
2. Remove rear tires.
3. Remove axles and have two drain pans ready. (8 bolts in center of hub)
4. Remove drum/hub assembly. (spindle nuts in center of the hub) Spindle nut socket required. Drums can be difficult to remove at times. Special note: there is a funny looking spikey washer between the nuts. It will probably have and end bent into one of the voids in the spindle nut. Pry this out of the nut with a screw driver. ( I like to count how many threads are visible on the spindle for reference later.)
5. Remove brake backing plate. (4 bolts on axle flange near the center of the plate) Brake lines and Ebrake cables will need to be disconnect or cut off at this point depending on whether or not you want to reuse. Try and plug your brake lines to save some fluid and less mess.
6. Clean up the spindle and inspect for damage and wear.
7. Press wheel studs from Drum/hub assembly. (Some use a BFH, I prefer a shop press with the lug nut on the stud to protect the threads.)
8. Replace wheel bearings and at the very least the wheel seal at this point.
1. Pry out wheel seal. (Can sometimes be difficult.)
2. inner wheel bearing falls out.
3. Drive inner race out.
4. Drive outer race away from spring clip. (It's there!!! so keep looking)
5. Remove spring clip with a long plier or similar method.
6. Drive out race and bearing out.
7. Reassemble in reverse order. Don't forget to pack the
bearings, Tech tip here (
http://www.diy4x.com/bearingtip.htm) Also,
make sure to fully seat races against there corresponding surface.
Outer race is seated against spring clip. Inner race has a shoulder
to seat against machined in the hub.
8. HUB IS REBUILT!!
9. Place 73-87 Chevy 3/4 ton front rotor on the back side of the hub and insert wheel studs. Some use a BFH. I prefer a shop press.
10. Bolt on bracket set and spacers to axle flange. 4-1/2" fine thread bolts with lock washers and torque to factory spec. (Chilton's manual) Bracket should set at a angle toward the rear of the vehicle and pointing upward. (As you are working on the axle, Driver side, 2:00 position. Passenger side 10:00 position. All that is necessary is the bleeder on the caliper face upward.)
10. Install rotor/hub assembly by sliding on spindle, insert spindle washer with indexing key, first spindle nut and torque to spec while spinning hub/rotor assembly, insert locking washer (the wierd looking device that was removed in step #4. Install final spindle nut and torque to spec. After torqueing check for play in hub rotor by trying to move rotor in our out on the top an bottom. Rocking motion. Bend tab into void to lock the assembly together. Torque specs are also in Chiltons manual, I believe the inner nut is 35ft/lbs. and outer being 110. IIRC> (How many threads on the spindle are visible??)
11. Install brake caliper and pads. (Bleeder screw vertical)
12. I prefer to put my new lines on at this time. Easier to work around things.
13. Insert axle shafts and torque to spec. (8- 1/2" shoulder bolts per side. I use a criss cross pattern to torque them and a ratchet strap or length of chain to keep the hub from spinning while torquing.)
14. mount wheels.
15. remove from jack stands.
16. refill diff with 80/90 gear oil of your choice.
17. Bleed the brakes and bleed and bleed and bleed. Get sick of bleeding, Jump on CK5 and research better methods! Take it to a shop with a power bleeder and be done! (I bleed them the old fashioned way. I stick some unfortunate sole in the drivers seat and make them pump!) Gravity bleeding does help if you have the time to let it set overnight with the bleeders open. Don't forget to check fluid level in the master cylinder.
If you have problems during this conversion feel free to call me at the shop.
712-479-2251
But yeah, if anyone knows of any write ups that are step by step, I would appreciate it. Also, Who has the best deal on all the parts, napa, autozone, advanced, oriley's? What are the part numbers. I'm pretty dead set on kert's bracket, From what I've seen and heard on the net, I don't think there is a better quality/ value out there.
