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Distributors and PO's

dremu

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So my '74 sixpack has a bigblock in it, which I am assuming is the original 454. Based on the weirdness I've found in this truck so far, I'm afraid to find & run the numbers, as god ONLY knows what I'd find, but it is SOME kind of bigblock.

And it's never run particularly well, even after a tuneup ... always a bit sluggish, even for a sixpack, backfires occasionally, sputters. I've suspicious of the ignition system, but it's all new plugs, wires, cap, rotor, coil.

It *is* HEI, which means someone's replaced the dizzie at some point. '74's had points stock, and the wire nut on the dizzy power wrie I am reasonably sure is NOT factory :rolleyes:

So I've been fiddling with the timing, and I'm finding she runs, at least in Park, like a raped ape ... if I turn the dizzy anti-clockwise and move the timing mark maybe 10 degrees UP the marker ... duh, I forget whether that's advanced or retarded. :doah:

Umm, the way I figger it, this means the timing mark on the balancer is off, or the timing teeth marker thing is the wrong flavour maybe? If the dizzy had been put in wrong, that wouldn't change the relationship between the balancer and the timing marks, right, it would just mean I'd have to turn the thing into the firewall or the carb to get it right?

The vacuum advance on the dizzy seems to work; hooked my hand pump to it and it changed timing, though by how much I donno.

When I have a chance, I'll take the thing for a drive and see how she runs, prolly end up timing her by ear. I've always done it by the light first, and then fine-tuned by ear ... but 10 degrees, seems like something is wrong.

Ideas?

-- A
 
check the voltage at the wire to the dist with the key on, the HEI needs 12v, but the points distributors had a resistor wire in the harness to drop the voltage to the points when running(started with 12v+, run with ~10v) and a HEI NEEDS 12V+
 
You mean 11.2V with key on and ~9.5 running isn't enough?

:doah:

I shoulda thunk of that, as I had to do that on a Pertonix conversion I did once.

So what should the HEI power go to? On in Start and Run, but off with key off, right?

-- A
 
dremu said:
You mean 11.2V with key on and ~9.5 running isn't enough?

:doah:

I shoulda thunk of that, as I had to do that on a Pertonix conversion I did once.

So what should the HEI power go to? On in Start and Run, but off with key off, right?

-- A

yes, if there are circuit taps in the fuse box, use the same one as is used for the dist now, but it will be full voltage at the box
 
Sweet. I now have full battery voltage at the dizzy. Of course, that's 11.7V ... somebody's been running his radio all day while he works on the truck, and the brake light switch is stuck on at the pedal... :doah:

But, after some charging, I have faith that the big block will roar to life.

I just feel stupid as I've been driving this thing for TWO YEARS and never thought to check this...

-- A
 
dremu said:
Sweet. I now have full battery voltage at the dizzy. Of course, that's 11.7V ... somebody's been running his radio all day while he works on the truck, and the brake light switch is stuck on at the pedal... :doah:

But, after some charging, I have faith that the big block will roar to life.

I just feel stupid as I've been driving this thing for TWO YEARS and never thought to check this...

-- A

opps.....


hope that fixes it
 
Well, she definitely runs better... I think the timing needs to be tweaked by ear now, as she starts funny and still doesn't have what I would consider enough grunt for a big block. So many projects, so little time ... :D

Thanks again!

-- A
 
74's are doggy...

I had 2 454's of '74 vintage..neither of them were very impressive as far as power,especially after I compared them to the 70 454 my brother had in his 82 K30..all stock except for a 268H Comp Cam...it was like night and day!:eek1: ..made mine feel like a six banger..

The 73 and up 454's had low compression ratio, and usually peanut port heads for more low end grunt..after 100,000 miles,a decent 350 will beat them in a drag race..yours might need a timing chain possibly..late valve timing will kill off some HP,and could account for why the distributor can be moved so far without much effect..don't expect miracles if you change it though..:crazy:
 
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