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Diy Paint Work, Teach Me

ryoken said:
is that solid or metallic you wanna shoot?
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Yes? :rotfl:

My buddy suggested this site, he's used it on a non show daily driver and was happy with it. I don't care if it's metallic or solid, like I've said before I just want a good, durable 10-15 footer that I can wheel. All of the paint names have "pearl" in them so I'm sure it's just a look good label rather than a type of paint. I also like the all inclusive "kit" as I don't know enough to trust myself to buy all the stuff needed as well as the correct stuff.

The "Pacific Blue" is the shade of blue I like most.
http://shop.thecoatingstore.com/400-Series-2-Stage-Pearl-Series_c66.htm
 
In cuz I'll be doing the same thing to mine after the full vert conversion. Gonna rock that patina one more year though.
 
nvrenuf said:
Yes? :rotfl:

My buddy suggested this site, he's used it on a non show daily driver and was happy with it. I don't care if it's metallic or solid, like I've said before I just want a good, durable 10-15 footer that I can wheel. All of the paint names have "pearl" in them so I'm sure it's just a look good label rather than a type of paint. I also like the all inclusive "kit" as I don't know enough to trust myself to buy all the stuff needed as well as the correct stuff.

The "Pacific Blue" is the shade of blue I like most.
http://shop.thecoatingstore.com/400-Series-2-Stage-Pearl-Series_c66.htm
Click to expand...


not making this easy huh? ;)

alrighty, cool... this all makes differences in your approach... so your gonna do base/clear... that's cool.... it's a superior system, and actually much easier to do IMO............................. when it's solid ;)

that's full blown metallic... it adds a bit to how you are going to spray it, but your prep will be the same.. you definitely want a primer/sealer coat of some sort going B/C... pearl is just a style of flake, comes in various colors... it prolly has some various silvers in it too, course, fine, etc....

being that it is base, it is susceptible to scratches showing thru (silver cars being notorious for it), thus you'll wanna be a solid 400 to 600 grit before coating, no 320... my suggestion would be prep with 400 till balls flat ;), than go over it all with a maroon course scuffpad.. they are about a 400, bit higher as they wear..

as far as spraying goes, we can go over all the do's, don'ts of that stuff as you need..


oh, not that it'll matter much for a wheeler, but being B/C makes it vastly easier to repair down the road...
 
You da man! Thanks for all the time & advice. Now to reread 10 times and let this soak for a few before more questions....

Anyone have any aspirin?
 
nvrenuf said:
You da man! Thanks for all the time & advice. Now to reread 10 times and let this soak for a few before more questions....

Anyone have any aspirin?
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yeah, hey my apologies... here's one more for ya to constempate... ;)

I'm waiting for the day when someone gets me babbling about sandpaper folding.... :screwy: :smokin2: :haha:


I'll just leave a couple more now that I get the feel for what your doing... I would definitely advise at this point if you are going to throw a couple coats of primer at the whole rig, that you be a fair bit more aggressive with the DA work.... primer likes to be applied to stuff in the 220 range, even 180.... so i'd be buying a roll of 220 and going off....

as far as what to look for in your bodywork.... in a situation like that you are looking to get most of the rig to whatever layer is coming up as the best overall. that could be the factory paint, or it could be it's primer, with some raw metal, and factory paint mixed in here and there... the idea is to limit the amount of featheredging you have going on..... palomino pony = bad juju..

that's a situation where guys get in trouble with a DA.. they get all on the edge cuz it cuts quicker, than they get a "step" in the paint transition... and that shows thru your coats.. FLATPAD, FLATPAD, FLATPAD guys... sure kill the paper edged up to plow into some stuff... but when your featheredging, and finishing up the panel, big no-no... heck, my one collision shop boss had banned DA's in the shop, and made ya use palm sanders for all that.. it's much safer, foolproof method... albeit much slower....

I generally like to get it most to the factory primer, that's usually a great substrate for new primer......

as far as how that affects your "worry about rusting" .. i would approach it as.. "ok, leave myself a couple hr's at the end of the day to prime. get as far i can till 1 pm, than clean up and get ready to prime".... it may be the kind of deal where you prep a whole side, but the hoods taking some time to sand... leave the other side for the next weekend and get this spot primed deals...


first thing i'd be looking at is what kind/brand of primer you are going to run.... any fill primer will do... you can thin it a bit, to make a sealer too.. I would prolly look at epoxy as it'll help with the raw steel.... epoxy tends to stick to raw a bit better than urethane, and sands nearly as well...
 
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ryoken said:
the dodge was more of a story of what can be done in 2 days with minimal prep and materials.... normally I'm wet crossblocking my prep to perfection with a bit finer..
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I wasn't making comments to your Dodge job, just in general what I've done in the past a few times that I've thought worked really well. Using a variety of dura blocks and single layer paper using the crossblocking method worked awesomer for me...along with Pauls advice, the results turned out great.

HPIM3910 (800x600).jpg

HPIM3941 (800x600).jpg
 
ryoken said:
that's such a sick color..

shoulda done my K5 in that... my copper is cool, but that sh*t's bangin...
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HOK is some amazing stuff! I got lucky as hell, but I did do a lot of homework before leaping...just like your doing John!
 
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