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DIY4X 205 T Case Mounting Kit

The strut rod from the side of the T-case to a bellhousing bolt is a big deal with long travel leaf springs in a 4wd. That much driveshaft plunge that often is never good regardless of how good the driveshaft is and the strut does a great job of countering plunge forces. Run the strut and maybe a single point mount directly under the tailhousing.
 
Ok I'm going to eyeball this idea seeing as all your other stuff on my truck works flawlessly. In conjunction with removing that factory side mount. So is 2 strut rods better than 1 if possible?
 
I think you are on the right track, but what the heck, I might as well jump in and confuse things.......
Of course, I'm running a Ford, so there is no direct correlation, but they might have had a better way. Might be worth a look. I ran a '79 F150, C6 transmission and NP205 for 10 years under pretty darn extreme conditions with no cracking or damage to the tail of the transmission.
I have no idea of the strength comparison between the case of a C6 and a Turbo400.
I also had a gear drive PTO on the side of the 205 driving a big honking winch. I do know that there was a side mount support on the 205. Driver's side, of course, since it was a Ford.
When I bought my '89 F250 new, it came with a BW1456 aluminum transfer case. With no PTO opening.
So, I swapped it out with a 205. Then I hung a big heavy PTO adapter and very large and heavy hydraulic pump on the side. I worried about damage to the tranny, so I went to a junkyard and found the side mount off an older Ford 205.
When I started to attach it, there was no way to mount it to the frame. Since the new trucks did not use a 205, they had retasked the mounting holes in the frame for some fuel stuff.
So, I built my own. I won't go into the details unless someone is interested, but I floated the mount between two sets of rubber bushings. The transfer case was free to twist a small amount, as well as move some from side to side.
I unbolted the whole case and pump combo and weighed them. Then bolted it all back up and jacked up the transfer case/transmission with a scale until I saw that much weight on the scale again. That meant that I had removed the weight of the system from the transmission.
I then built my mount so that there was no load on the bushings.
When I released the jack, everything settled some, hopefully spreading the load equally on all the mounts.
Did I do right? No idea, but that system has been in place since 1989, with no problems or structural failures.

Does this help or hurt you? No idea. BUT, here is my suggestion. I am basing this on my memory of a mount I saw for an hour or two 30 years ago. But, as I remember, the Ford factory mount was a multi-piece mount with rubber built in. It looked like an engine mount, and there was movement between the part that bolted to the transfer case and the part that bolted to the frame.
I am wondering if it was designed to have the same amount of flex as the other engine and transmission mounts.
Where you would find one or even a picture of one, I have no idea, especially since most of the parts you folks have laying around are GM. But I have heard a lot of talk about using Ford front axles and using a driver's side drop transfer case, so someone might just have a factory Ford frame mount.
I actually like the idea of rod(s) from the top of the 205 casing to the bell housing bolts to take the weight load of the 205 off the tail shaft and transfer it to the bell housing. They need to be carefully measured as to length, and if I were doing it, I would tend to mount two. One from the left and right hand top of the transfer case to the bell housing bolts.

But then I run Fords and hang out here, so my ideas tend to be weird...........
 
Stephen said:
The strut rod from the side of the T-case to a bellhousing bolt is a big deal with long travel leaf springs in a 4wd. That much driveshaft plunge that often is never good regardless of how good the driveshaft is and the strut does a great job of countering plunge forces. Run the strut and maybe a single point mount directly under the tailhousing.
Click to expand...

I run one of these on my 1991 V3500 crew cab thanks to iceman44 who sold me one.
1169545d1389282775-np205-transfer-case-crossmember-support-rod.jpg
 
So I removed the 2 main bolts from the side of the TC and it dropped a little bit (1/4 inch). Whats the consciences? Brace it as it sits without support or jack it back up then brace? Maybe that side brace was putting undo stress on trans case?

IMG_0233.jpg
 
sponsoredbydad said:
So I removed the 2 main bolts from the side of the TC and it dropped a little bit (1/4 inch). Whats the consciences? Brace it as it sits without support or jack it back up then brace? Maybe that side brace was putting undo stress on trans case?
Click to expand...
Exactly, toss that bracket in the trash!
Fastereddie said:
I think stephen mentioned driveshaft plunge forces also.
Click to expand...
That is a for damn sure! Not only front shaft length but also those stupid nubs on the later flange type front CVs will cause the shaft to bind resulting in transfercase issues. A few years ago I converted my 205 from the old Saginaw style CV to the later flange mount just due to the ease of R&Ring the front shaft as those little bolts on the Saginaw type CV are a hassle to deal with. I knew the flange mount nubs needed to be ground down but apparently I didn’t grind them down enough and the front shaft tried to commit suicide and take the transfercase with it near the Doll House in Canyonlands.

Pretty much all day I heard some odd noises and after several inspections underneath I still did not see the issue. You could hear the noise in many of the videos from that trip. It wasn’t until we got to camp that afternoon at the Doll House where I crawled under only to find the yoke had pulled loose from the case and both U-Joints were being pulled apart with all 8 caps about to fall out of the CV all because those stupid nubs were bottoming out not allowing enough drive shaft movement as the suspension flexed. Luckily I had some extra U-joints to pirate the clips from. It was this day I stopped being concerned about the aluminum NV4500 adapter between the trans and 205. If this issue didn't break that adapter I guess not much else will for what I do with the truck.

I was like….Sumbish!!!!
14076404729_3daa4852cf_c.jpg


This was a painstaking process where each of us took turns for hours filing the CV. We were at least 5 hours from a highway and from there another 1.5 to Moab. We had to sort this out with what we had. Thankfully my buddy Ty just happen to find a nice Craftman file set at a garage sale and threw it in his camper. Without that we would have been screwed.
14076444600_e6e74d77b0_c.jpg

14239947336_bb6f9496fa_c.jpg


Later flange mount CV with all the stupid stops to cause problems on lifted rigs. Once I got the K10 sorted out I yanked the shaft on the Suburban and cleaned it up as well as I doubt the 241 would be as forgiving being yanked on as the 205 was.
14436326876_ee52d0be16_c.jpg



14436326496_b642a4c1a3_c.jpg




Old Saginaw CV. These don’t have all the stops that cause binding. I should have never bothered swapping out this type of shaft from my K10
14456218531_4757c2c466_c.jpg
 
sponsoredbydad said:
I just don't see how that supports weight, twist maybe but not weight
Click to expand...
It's supporting twisting and back and forth movement.
Basically you need something to hold everything together solid and then preferably 3 points of support to the frame.
2 at the engine and 1 in the back.
 
I was just checking out the new '72 I bought and I saw that it still has the stock support.

Figured I'd share for inspiration.

20190331_134143.jpg
 
Smoked 1 TH350, smoked a couple synchros in 465, couple clutches in same 465 and 1 diff lock in a 623G scraper that was not my fault. I called the rental company and told them it was not right as it bounced my head off the glass when it disengaged and they said they had nobody available to fix it and to just run it. So I did. Grenaded that f--ker and after that they listened when I called.

Okay, just hear me out here. I am not worried about the twist or torque in the drivetrain. It's all going in pretty much the same direction so it's like ehhhh... But a weight support for that heavy ass 203 on the end of the transmission, that has always concerned me. Is there a bracket that helps to take some of the weight off of the bolts to the transmission tail shaft bolts/adapter area?
 
Joel Wilson said:
Okay, just hear me out here. I am not worried about the twist or torque in the drivetrain. It's all going in pretty much the same direction so it's like ehhhh... But a weight support for that heavy ass 203 on the end of the transmission, that has always concerned me. Is there a bracket that helps to take some of the weight off of the bolts to the transmission tail shaft bolts/adapter area?
Click to expand...

Maybe? This is for a 205 but I'd guess that seal retainer is the same, NWF should know for sure.

northwestfab.com

NP205 Transfer Case Support

The NP205 Transfer Case Support is a heavy-duty two-piece clamping system designed to add critical structural support to high-torque drivetrain applications. Manufactured from 3/8" pickled and oiled mild steel, each clamp is high-definition plasma cut in-house and CNC machined to maintain...
northwestfab.com northwestfab.com

I would think the bracket would carry the weight at the back of the tcase without restricting rotational movement. I have a similar bracket made by Behemoth Drivetrain (I think they disco'd it) but I haven't installed it yet.
 
from what i have read and understand from members here big and small in the game ........

all mounts must be the same style material .

all mounts need to act in the same direction / plane . if you cross them in ways others sell add-on mounts for there will be problems .

motor mounts go front to back so make sure all your driveline mounts do also . if you go side to side then they both fight each other and thats when bad stuff happens and it tends to be the tail end of the trans case .
 
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