DIY4X engine crossmember question....HELP PLEASE!!!

[Big Blzn]

Fellas
I am looking for some First Gen DIY4X engine crossmember pics.

Some of you may have read my thread recently about my oil pan not comming out because of the stock crossmember. Trying to replace my rear main seal and the pan is pretty much stuck unless I do something drastic. I saw the DIY 'member and it looks real nice and for the $200 it may be a lot cheaper to buy and install it than to have a shop do the seal for me.

My question is: Is the DIY 'member sitting low enough to give me the clearence to get the pan out? I look at it on line and it says to just unbolt part of the crossmember and the pan comes right out but it looks like the engine mounts are bolted to the area that would come off to take the pan out. How exactly does the crossmember work and come out while keeping the engine still on the mounts?

Can I see some pics of yours installed with the clearence it has, etc. Thanks guys.

 

[ryoken]

it wont matter, just do the pan when the old x-member comes out, before you put the new one in... perfect time to upgrade...

 

[cybrfire]

The photo of the crossmember is old. Below the main add it says changes have been made. Those are the changes. There are two flanges on either side of the main "cross" tube that have been added. With those, you'll be able to remove the cross tube section and not have to remove the engine itself or any of the actual engine mouting bolts.

 

[Big Blzn]

Thanks Kert. I went looking for AJ's build and found the pic you are refering to. Looks like I'm gonna have to make a call to you in a day or two. Shoot, you might want to use AJ's pic as a sample on your website. It's awful pretty to look at. Thank you.

 

[Big Blzn]

Update: Just ordered the DIY crossmember. Now I can really get my panties in a bunch trying to get it installed. I know it;s probably easy but I tend to make the easiest installs difficult.

 

[AJs72K5]

Uh, I guess I helped out here somehow...

Let me know if you need me to talk you thru anything putting it in.

 

[Big Blzn]

Uh, I guess I helped out here somehow...

Let me know if you need me to talk you thru anything putting it in.

Hell ya you helped by posting the pic on your build thread. I ordered one from kert today. Now Kert just needs to send you commission for your picture inspiring me to purchase.

 

[AJs72K5]

Hell ya you helped by posting the pic on your build thread. I ordered one from kert today. Now Kert just needs to send you commission for your picture inspiring me to purchase.

If you want / need more clearance, he can make the block brackets taller....which raises up the engine giving more clearance on the pan. Keep in mind you may get tight in other places around the engine by doing so.

 

[Big Blzn]

Don't think in need anymore clearence. My SBC doesn't seem to need it and I'd rather not open another can of worms by raising it. It seems like it was a good idea on your BBC though. Thanks for the thoughts AJ.

Also, AJ, did you have to do anything with any of the fuel lines etc when you installed your crossmember on the pass side frane rail. Looks like it's made to fit without any trouble but thought I'd ask since I have your attention.

 

[Engineered Vintage]

Fuel lines should clear just fine - I have mocked mine up and it looks good - no pics yet.

 

[Big Blzn]

Fuel lines should clear just fine - I have mocked mine up and it looks good - no pics yet.

Igor, as easy as the install seems I'd like to see pics of your install if you have been taking them. Did you just leave the tranny/transcase mount bolted up and put a jack under your oil pan and raise the engine enough to clear out the old crossmember and motor mounts and then bolt up the new 'member and motor mounts?

 

[AJs72K5]

Igor, as easy as the install seems I'd like to see pics of your install if you have been taking them. Did you just leave the tranny/transcase mount bolted up and put a jack under your oil pan and raise the engine enough to clear out the old crossmember and motor mounts and then bolt up the new 'member and motor mounts?

I would think it'd be easier to lift the engine from above with a cherry picker. That'll give you more room underneath to bolt everything together. Then lower the engine into place on the new crossmember.

 

[Engineered Vintage]

Igor, as easy as the install seems I'd like to see pics of your install if you have been taking them. Did you just leave the tranny/transcase mount bolted up and put a jack under your oil pan and raise the engine enough to clear out the old crossmember and motor mounts and then bolt up the new 'member and motor mounts?

You are funny thinking I'm that far with my build.

In all seriousness - I have put the DIY crossmember in, and taken it back out. I don't have tranny or engine mounted in my frame yet. - that is for sometime in 2014.

My build thread is sadly current with my current state of affairs on the Blazer...

http://coloradok5.com/forums/showthread.php?t=264786

 

[Big Blzn]

UPDATE:

OK, so I got my DIY x-member and it's all painted purdy and all. Gonna install it this holiday weekend.

Now my question:

Upon further inspection of (just laying under the engine looking around at crap) the current engine mounts I just noticed that the power steering pump has what looks like a factory bracket that goes from the pump to the drivers side front mounting bolt on the engine mount bracket. Not sure if this will end up being a problem or not but I thought I'd ask if you guys have said bracket. I will let you know that the prior owner put a 400sbc from a '79 chevy truck in the blazer. So this bracket and power steering pump setup may not be what was in my '72 originally. Should I take a pic and post up so you know what I'm talking about? Just tryig to plan ahead. Thanks fellas.

 

[cybrfire]

UPDATE:

OK, so I got my DIY x-member and it's all painted purdy and all. Gonna install it this holiday weekend.

Now my question:

Upon further inspection of (just laying under the engine looking around at crap) the current engine mounts I just noticed that the power steering pump has what looks like a factory bracket that goes from the pump to the drivers side front mounting bolt on the engine mount bracket. Not sure if this will end up being a problem or not but I thought I'd ask if you guys have said bracket. I will let you know that the prior owner put a 400sbc from a '79 chevy truck in the blazer. So this bracket and power steering pump setup may not be what was in my '72 originally. Should I take a pic and post up so you know what I'm talking about? Just tryig to plan ahead. Thanks fellas.

Shouldn't be a problem for you.

 

[Big Blzn]

OK, since I tend to be a little intimidated by projects like installing the cross member i will as another question beofre I start on Saturday. Kert, what is the torque spec on the bolts?

Also, here is how I plan on going about he install. Let me know if this sounds right/good.

-Loosen all OEM xmember bolts.
-Jack engine with extra wood blocks under oil pan about an 1" or so and support in place.
-Take out EOM xmember entirely.
-Install DIY engine mounting plates.
-Install "C" shaped frame brackets on each side.
-Install engine bushing mount bracket on each side.
-Install removable engine oil pan xmember.
-Lower engine to line up bolts for engine mount to bracket mount and tighten up.
-What are the torque specs for the x-member and for the engine mount plate to the block????

Thanks and wish me luck as I tend to fock up the easiest installs.

Edit: Should I use blue thread lock on the engine bracket bolts and/or the non-removable xmember brackets?

 

[mikey_d05]

I can't speak for a lot of it, but a few general install tips...

-Start the threads on all the bolts before you smoke everything down. Just helps with frame variances and the like if everything is loose when you start all the bolts.

-All of the nuts and bolts have serrated heads, they are NOT coming off as long as you use your calibrated arm to get them tight. The weld nuts are also deformed thread lock nuts IIRC, same deal there, not coming loose.

 

[Big Blzn]

I can't speak for a lot of it, but a few general install tips...

-Start the threads on all the bolts before you smoke everything down. Just helps with frame variances and the like if everything is loose when you start all the bolts.

-All of the nuts and bolts have serrated heads, they are NOT coming off as long as you use your calibrated arm to get them tight. The weld nuts are also deformed thread lock nuts IIRC, same deal there, not coming loose.

I notice that the nuts were a self locking type deal. Good idea on having it all bolted together loosely. Didn't think of that. I was curious about a 38 year old truck frame and it all bolting together nice and tight with no major gaps, etc.

Also, I noticed that the bolts that come in the package that bolt the engine plate to the block are only 3/4" long thus giving only 1/2" of thread engagment to the block. Is that enough thread? I know it's been done many times with them but do you think it's unnecessary to use a 1" bolt instead?

 

[mikey_d05]

Each block is different, but 3/4" is deeper than a fair number of them are drilled and tapped.

 

[cybrfire]

I notice that the nuts were a self locking type deal. Good idea on having it all bolted together loosely. Didn't think of that. I was curious about a 38 year old truck frame and it all bolting together nice and tight with no major gaps, etc.

Also, I noticed that the bolts that come in the package that bolt the engine plate to the block are only 3/4" long thus giving only 1/2" of thread engagment to the block. Is that enough thread? I know it's been done many times with them but do you think it's unnecessary to use a 1" bolt instead?

on a 3/8" bolt minimum thread engagement is 3/8". 1/2" will do ya nicely. We used to send them out with 1" bolts but got a lot of complaints of bolts bottoming out so we had to swap them out for the 3/4".