Do crate motors need to run a cam breakin?

[shady]

I have a GMPP 260hp 350 that we are getting ready to fire up. Are these run by them at all or do I need to do a cam breakin when we first fire it. I've never broken in a new motor myself. I have read how but havent done it. I dont want to kill this thing right off the bat. There was NO instructions on startup OR breakin with the motor.

 

[cuervo]

What is the part number on the motor? Where did you buy it? Did they not have a start up procedure for the motor in the info bag?

My GMPP 383 came with one.

 

[folkenheath]

I would lookup the instruction on GMPP website for the breakin procedure for that particular motor by the part number. Most new motors have roller cams but I don't know if they breakin the ones that don't before they ship them out.

I found this...

http://www.gmperformanceparts.com/Extras/engine-installation-guides/

The 290hp SB has a flat tappet camshaft, and it doesn't say anything about breaking it in, but to be honest, if it had a flat tappet cam I would break it in anyway. And I would use the Valvoline VR1 racing oil with the high zinc content. The breakin procedure for that motor is an exact copy of all of the roller motors, so either they break it in ahead of time or something is not right.

 

[shady]

http://www.jegs.com/i/GM-Performance/809/10067353/10002/-1?parentProductId=752506

Its a GM parts, jegs has it listed as a performance parts one. It came with a long block in a crate wrapped in plastic. nothing more I printed the GMPP 290hp startup instructions. I'm going to follow those. It doesnt say anything about the cam breakin.

Isnt that were you run it a 2000rpm for like 20 minutes or something.

Sorry but I'm kinda of new motor stupid Never could afford one before.

 

[folkenheath]

It doesnt say anything about the cam breakin.

Isnt that were you run it a 2000rpm for like 20 minutes or something.

Yep, I would do a cam breakin just to be sure, better safe than sorry with a flat tappet cam. Bring the RPM up between 2000 - 2500 immediately and leave it there for at least 20 minutes, up to 30 minutes, varying slightly in between there. I like to just turn the idle screw way up so I can walk around and check for leaks and observe things and set the timing and all that while it's breaking in.

If you have a box fan it would help to have it blow on hte engine/radiator for this, the exhaust manifolds/headers will get really hot.

 

[yellowK20]

Its Flat tappet at well you should get some of the break in additive

 

[shady]

thats my other issue is that I have to get a cheap set of manifolds so I dont burn up the ceramic headers. I found a guy at work thats supposed to give me a set though. My neighbors are gonna hate that day no exhaust yet

 

[shady]

Its Flat tappet at well you should get some of the break in additive

If I've already filled it with oil and primed it. is it gonna hurt to change it to a breakin oil now? or use what I got and add the addative.

 

[yellowK20]

You need to run the break in oil our you run the a 50% chance of wiping out the cam.


there are additives you can add to conventional oil so you dont have to waste the oil thats in it already

 

[trevmountain]

I just had my big block built and dyno'd and they use Joe Gibbs break in oil. They fire up the motor and run it at around a 2500 idle for about 15 to 20 minutes then pull a few dyno's. I've got the motor in my truck and plan to continue running the break in oil for another 250 to 300 miles doing city type driving up and down through the rpm's. My builder said that a few short bursts up into the higher rpm's is fine but keep them short. Of course this is with a full roller hyd cam so break in will be less of an issue for me. I'll continue running the Joe Gibbs synthetic oil after break in. I've read and been told from my builder that these old style motors like that high zinc stuff.

 

[76zimmer]

Read HERE:

http://www.compcams.com/Base/pdf/FlatTappetCamTechBulletin.pdf


It helps you understand why a break in is so important to flat tappet type cams.




.

 

[Cornfield creations]

Plus, to be aware, modern oils do not contain zinc and phosphorus in their oils. Government mandated it out over time. So if you have a flat tappet cam, you will need to run an oil additive every time, otherwise you will have accelerated wear on your engine.
I have heard of multiple triumphs that ate the cam smooth because of the lack of these additives.

ZDDP is one brand that makes it.

 

[folkenheath]

If you go to the parts store and get the Valvoline Vr1 racing oil, it has the high zinc content, no ordering, no waiting.

 

[76zimmer]

ZDDP means "Zinc Dialkyl Dithiosphosphate"
Its not a brand name, but an additive package that is so important for the longevity of flat tappet cams....a few companies make this additive package in a 12 oz. bottle to add at new cam break in, and every oil change.
some would say after a proper break in, the additive isn't needed, but I run it every oil change to be a little over cautious.

 

[76zimmer]

If you go to the parts store and get the Valvoline Vr1 racing oil, it has the high zinc content, no ordering, no waiting.

True but high $$$ for it....a 12 oz additive is cheaper to add to your favorite oil brand.

 

[shady]

I'm just getting the proper breakin oil. I'm not gonna wish I did later. Thanks for the help guys. I now have a bunch of stuff printed out and a good game plan. I need a LOT more money to run this thing than I thought

Tach
Break in oil / filter x2
Linkage ball / stud for carb
Adapter for temp sender (lost it)
Pipe to run down off the manifolds to get the hot to the floor area
Battery cables / Battery

Maybe it wont be this week

 

[shady]

WOW, 4 posts in the time it took me to do one

If you go to the parts store and get the Valvoline Vr1 racing oil, it has the high zinc content, no ordering, no waiting.

I will look into this, and the addative. see which is more $

 

[shady]

The addative is $14 per bottle for a single oil change. the VR1 is only $1 more than regular oil per quart. Vr1 wins there. but I already have oil in it. and enough for the oil change after the cam breakin. I may do the lucas break in addative anyway so as not to waste all the oil I already have Either way its another $30 or more.

 

[Fordum]

Here is some more reading material. I like Amsoil, but the others are good too. To be honest, the level of most synthetics is so far above standard oil these days that most any of the name brands will do a good job.

Amsoil has this chart that shows what they recommend for flat tappets .

http://www.jrsynthetics.com/flat-tappet-cams.htm

And then here is some other info.

http://www.highperformancepontiac.com/tech/hppp_0802_pontiac_performance_engine_oil/viewall.html

http://www.amsoil.com/techservicesbulletin/motoroil/tsb mo-2007-08-08 flat tappet.pdf

 

[76zimmer]

The Amsoils listed look pretty good...but how do they get around the gov't mandated reduction...Valvoline does it by calling it off road use only, I don't see that on the Amsoil label??

I've read where anything above 1000ppm zinc/phosphorous is plenty for protection.
I used Mobil 1 in my 327, and tore it down a couple years ago with only .001 measured wear (against the cam card) on only a couple lobes.