CherryK5
1/2 ton status
It's a gm10 bolt open carrier. I'm diving straight in. Gonna learn how to set up gears with the old man and I have no idea what to do I want it un assembled and ready when he gets here in the morning.
CK5
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do I have to pull mu knuckles to change front gears?
- Thread starter CherryK5
- Start date
No, don't need to remove the knuckles.
You need to remove the bearing hubs and spindles. The axle shafts can slide out just enough to get the gear carrier out but you may as well check the shafts and u-joint while its all apart and replace the joints if needed.
And the shafts need to be pulled or removed to replace the inner seals by each side of the carrier bearings.
You need to remove the bearing hubs and spindles. The axle shafts can slide out just enough to get the gear carrier out but you may as well check the shafts and u-joint while its all apart and replace the joints if needed.
And the shafts need to be pulled or removed to replace the inner seals by each side of the carrier bearings.
JeffsJeep04
1/2 ton status
This!!!
Sucks having to grab a huge crecent wrench or some channel lock pliers to hold the yoke while someone else tries to break the pinion nut without it rotating off of whatever you have the axle setting on.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
well I was gonna do it on the truck. So couldn't I just go at it with an impact?
Yes you can. Easier with that than the physical labor of the wrench.
JeffsJeep04
1/2 ton status
You are going to do the re-gear with the axle in the truck? I'd HIGHLY suggest you pull the axle if this is your first rodeo. An impact will work fine if you have a way to stop the gears from spinning, but I prefer to at least break the nut free with something that's not going to hammer away at the gears. Once it's free, spin it off with the impact. I've done a few gear swaps, and I'd pull the axle just so that I wasn't having to deal with crawling around on the ground over and over again each time I had to pull it apart. You want it to be as comfortable as possible so you don't get tired of it and cut corners.
Yep, the most preferred method to do this job.
I slap the housing on a bench or work table and go from there. Do everything at waist/belly height for comfort.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
well I was going to grab the wrecker and raise the sonbish up to eye level and avoid getting on the ground at all.
Even worse! What happens if it falls? You're dead. Leave the truck to me if you write out a will.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
now what fun is that???
crawling around under the truck, getting dirty, neck cramps, arm and shoulder cramps.... it's the ONLY way to work for me 
Think SAFETY my friend.now what fun is that???
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
well obviously there would be safety precautions. Like a strap from the rafters. Maybe two. It's not gonna fall. I promise.
4xcrazy
3/4 ton status
Think SAFETY my friend.
i was referring to the comment about replacing the gears while under the truck still on the ground,,, yeah, jacking it up real high with a forklift or tow truck or whatever, i don't think i'd do that either.
I have done three R&P setups with the axle in the truck. With a lifted truck on a set of big set of jackstands you can pretty much sit there to work. IMO this is less labor than pulling and replacing the axle, maybe replacing U bolts and such while you're at it - and for a rear end, having the bleed the brakes, etc. Plus, the giant breaker bar method is not as safe with the axle on the workbench.
As for pulling the pinion yoke, this takes far less torque than crushing the new crush sleeve, so you'd better have a plan for that anyway. The easiest way is with a big impact gun. Just throw a pipe wrench on the yoke and let it hit the floor or frame or something. But this requires real finesse to crush it *just enough* because once the gun starts it, it goes in fast. You'll want to try like 1 or 2 blows at a time. It's easier to control the amount of twist with the breaker bar + pipe, but of course that is more of a PITA.
As for pulling the pinion yoke, this takes far less torque than crushing the new crush sleeve, so you'd better have a plan for that anyway. The easiest way is with a big impact gun. Just throw a pipe wrench on the yoke and let it hit the floor or frame or something. But this requires real finesse to crush it *just enough* because once the gun starts it, it goes in fast. You'll want to try like 1 or 2 blows at a time. It's easier to control the amount of twist with the breaker bar + pipe, but of course that is more of a PITA.
I hope this is a joke? Supporting the vehicle from the rafters?
Mr.running with scissors!
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
I'm kidding. It's on stands and the wrecker has two 1/2 inch cables on it. I think it's good.
CherryK5
1/2 ton status
you guys are sure I don't have to pull the knuckles? So far it looks like there isn't enough play in there but I haven't dug into the diff yet. Just got the outers off.
