Do I need new wheel studs - disc brake swap ?

[Mikey von]

I am guessing I need new wheel studs and have them pressed in. The stock ones seem too short and do not fit tight into the rotors. This is for a 14 bolt sf.

Would napa our les schawb have these?

Part #?

Would les schawb be able to press the new ones on?

Am i a complete dumb ass, cause sometimes I feel like it?!?

I going to cut wood, something i know I can do

Here are some pics.

as they sit stock on the axel shaft.

In the rotor

 

[frankin5]

I am guessing I need new wheel studs and have them pressed in. The stock ones seem too short and do not fit tight into the rotors. This is for a 14 bolt sf.

Would napa our les schawb have these?

Part #?

Would les schawb be able to press the new ones on?

Am i a complete dumb ass, cause sometimes I feel like it?!?

I going to cut wood, something i know I can do

Here are some pics.

as they sit stock on the axel shaft.

In the rotor

Yes you will to mount them on the back. the serated end needs to be longer to hold on to the axel.

 

[mrk5]

Wouldn't the rotor go on the outside of the hub flange?

 

[Mikey von]

Wouldn't the rotor go on the outside of the hub flange?

when i mocked it up it seems to all fit with it on the inside of the hub flange, minus the wheel studs.

frankin, are the wheel studs the same that would come off the front axel of a disked truck or ??? ?

 

[frankin5]

My rotors are mounted on the front of the flang. Have a Warn full float. Uses the front rotor off the Ifs truck and a 80 Cad rear cliper. The set of rear disc I have from SS brakes had the rotor on the front. No need to get longer stubs. I don't know about the fronts. A good auto parts store will have what you need to put them on the back.

 

[3car]

when i mocked it up it seems to all fit with it on the inside of the hub flange, minus the wheel studs.

frankin, are the wheel studs the same that would come off the front axel of a disked truck or ??? ?

rotors go outside the axles

 

[Mikey von]

well, if the rotors go outside the axles, i have problems. It will not even come close to fitting like that. The rotors do not fit over the axle flange.

I mocked it up with the rotors on the inside of the axle (wheel studs held on by lug nuts). Everything lined up good.

I will post some pictures tomorrow. This is a semi-float and I am a dumbass sometimes.

 

[3car]

well, if the rotors go outside the axles, i have problems. It will not even come close to fitting like that. The rotors do not fit over the axle flange.

I mocked it up with the rotors on the inside of the axle (wheel studs held on by lug nuts). Everything lined up good.

I will post some pictures tomorrow. This is a semi-float and I am a dumbass sometimes.

huh? you pulled this rear apart right? why wont it go back together without the drums and backing plates and the rotors slide over the studs?

 

[Mikey von]

yeah, i pulled the rear apart. I had assumed the rotor went on the outside, but it would not fit that way. The rotor hits the the flange (the flange is the same width as the rotor). I was hoping it would fit and I would not need new wheel studs.

At this point I removed the wheel studs and mocked it up with the rotor on the inside of the flange. Everything lined up great, minus the wheel studs not fitting.

 

[4X4HIGH]

Did you buy a "kit" from somewhere?

 

[3car]

yeah, i pulled the rear apart. I had assumed the rotor went on the outside, but it would not fit that way. The rotor hits the the flange (the flange is the same width as the rotor). I was hoping it would fit and I would not need new wheel studs.

At this point I removed the wheel studs and mocked it up with the rotor on the inside of the flange. Everything lined up great, minus the wheel studs not fitting.

so did you put it all the way back together like that? did the c-clips go in easially? did the calipers line up with the rotors correctly?

 

[frankin5]

you will have to get longer wheel studs. I see what you are talking about. Huge flang. Take one of you studs to an auto parts store. NAPA dealer if you have one. They should be able to get you one that will fit and have a longer splined area so that it will lock back in the flang as the stock did.

 

[3car]

my guess is that the rotor flange is just too small.

 

[Mikey von]

I got the brackets from ruff stuff. I got the rotors and calipers from napa. I used the same part numbers most on here used for the full float swap.

I did not actually put the c-clips in. I just had it mocked up. I could definately do that to make sure they fit.

I will go check out napa (only game in town) tomorrow.

It is best to have the wheel studs pressed in correct? Any other ways? I have no problem getting it pressed, but always like to explore diy options.

 

[3car]

I got the brackets from ruff stuff. I got the rotors and calipers from napa. I used the same part numbers most on here used for the full float swap.

I did not actually put the c-clips in. I just had it mocked up. I could definately do that to make sure they fit.

I will go check out napa (only game in town) tomorrow.

It is best to have the wheel studs pressed in correct? Any other ways? I have no problem getting it pressed, but always like to explore diy options.

I use an impact and a lug nut to pull the studs in.

 

[Mikey von]

i have read, on here that pull them on with the lug nut is unsafe. Is this incorrect?

You all have me wondering about the rotor being on the inside or outside of the axle now.

 

[3car]

i have read, on here that pull them on with the lug nut is unsafe. Is this incorrect?

You all have me wondering about the rotor being on the inside or outside of the axle now.

been doing it since i was 15, 32 now and i'm still alive. but whatever.

 

[frankin5]

I got the brackets from ruff stuff. I got the rotors and calipers from napa. I used the same part numbers most on here used for the full float swap.

I did not actually put the c-clips in. I just had it mocked up. I could definately do that to make sure they fit.

I will go check out napa (only game in town) tomorrow.

It is best to have the wheel studs pressed in correct? Any other ways? I have no problem getting it pressed, but always like to explore diy options.

they can be done at home. Use a spacer larger than the stud and tighen a lug nut down to pull it in place. pressing is the easy way and quick.

 

[Mikey von]

3car - i am not knocking it, i do not know what is right either way. I was reading the disc brake tech article and homeboy said it is a no-no.

Here is the link and a the section on wheel studs. Looking at it again, I notice that the rotor is on the inside of the axle (makes me feel better)

http://coloradok5.com/atrondiskbrakes.shtml

"Installing the wheel studs is next. The disc is installed from the backside of the axle flange. The wheel studs pass though it. The proper way to install a wheel stud is with a shop press that can exert about 2-3 tons of pressure to make sure they are fully seated. Again the danger of not getting the studs seated could ultimately end with the loss of a wheel. It's worth the time and a few bucks to take this to a machine shop to have them pressed in if you don't have access to a press. If you just don't have anyway of pressing them then the next best method would be to drive them in with a Drift and a hammer. Regardless it would be wise to keep a lug wrench handy for the next couple days and check the torque on the lug nuts when you stop. The heat cycling of the disc and flange, from braking will, cause any studs that are not fully seated to loose torque so play it safe and check to make sure they are still tight over the next couple days.

Now a rant.

It is absolutely the wrong way to install wheel studs by drawing them in with a lug nut PERIOD! Wheel studs are normally only torqued to between 80-120 ftlb on the average passenger vehicle. To create enough force to draw a wheel stud in your going to need to produce well over 150 ftlb of Torque, probably over 200ftlb. That's well in excess of what that stud was designed to handle. You are weakening the stud if you do this and there is a VERY real danger that they could prematurely fail and cause the loss of a wheel. If some monkey mechanic ever tells you this is ok to do and they are about to pull this stunt on your vehicle LEAVE. I can about guarantee that at least 50% of the cars you see sitting on the side of the road with a missing wheel is because of some knucklehead pulling this stunt"

I will go get longer wheel studs at napa tomorrow and have les schawb or somewhere press them in. Does Harbor Frieght sell presses that would work?

 

[3car]

3car - i am not knocking it, i do not know what is right either way. I was reading the disc brake tech article and homeboy said it is a no-no.

Here is the link and a the section on wheel studs. Looking at it again, I notice that the rotor is on the inside of the axle (makes me feel better)

http://coloradok5.com/atrondiskbrakes.shtml

"Installing the wheel studs is next. The disc is installed from the backside of the axle flange. The wheel studs pass though it. The proper way to install a wheel stud is with a shop press that can exert about 2-3 tons of pressure to make sure they are fully seated. Again the danger of not getting the studs seated could ultimately end with the loss of a wheel. It's worth the time and a few bucks to take this to a machine shop to have them pressed in if you don't have access to a press. If you just don't have anyway of pressing them then the next best method would be to drive them in with a Drift and a hammer. Regardless it would be wise to keep a lug wrench handy for the next couple days and check the torque on the lug nuts when you stop. The heat cycling of the disc and flange, from braking will, cause any studs that are not fully seated to loose torque so play it safe and check to make sure they are still tight over the next couple days.

Now a rant.

It is absolutely the wrong way to install wheel studs by drawing them in with a lug nut PERIOD! Wheel studs are normally only torqued to between 80-120 ftlb on the average passenger vehicle. To create enough force to draw a wheel stud in your going to need to produce well over 150 ftlb of Torque, probably over 200ftlb. That's well in excess of what that stud was designed to handle. You are weakening the stud if you do this and there is a VERY real danger that they could prematurely fail and cause the loss of a wheel. If some monkey mechanic ever tells you this is ok to do and they are about to pull this stunt on your vehicle LEAVE. I can about guarantee that at least 50% of the cars you see sitting on the side of the road with a missing wheel is because of some knucklehead pulling this stunt.


I will go get longer wheel studs at napa tomorrow and have les schawb or somewhere press them in. Does Harbor Frieght sell presses that would work?

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LOL
good luck with this.




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