Tho I am full breakers in the glove on mine, that is the basic principal of my whole system..grd buss, ign on and bat hot, feed all circuits....
CK5
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Do we have a Painless Wiring Vendor? *turning into wiring tech*
- Thread starter Avery4jc
- Start date
Tho I am full breakers in the glove on mine, that is the basic principal of my whole system..grd buss, ign on and bat hot, feed all circuits....
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
This is an awesome thread! I would want mine to be able to have about 3 full hot, and 5 to 7 ign hots...I am fairly sure I could do this myself, IF, and that is a BIG IF, I had the know how to run wires to and from relay to the bus bars for the ign/full hot fuses...like I said, a big IF....
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
Well, I actually found my old soldering iron...I am anxiously awaiting the "cookbook"
...or the instructions on how this whole thing gets put together.
...or the instructions on how this whole thing gets put together.
Ok it's not all that complex if your wiring needs are similar to mine. Basically I needed a spot that had a ton of 12v switched sources for stuff like my tach, the stereo, a cb, lights, etc.
Some of those items (like the amp, stereo and lights) are using that switched 12v source to fire their own internal relay's that draw power through a heavier guage wire straight from the battery.
While others (such as the cb and the backlight on the tach) are using that switched 12v source as their only source for power... it just depend on what the accessory is and how much power it draws but they all need a switched 12v source...
So this is what I did although there are tons of ways you could accomplish the same thing.
I have two wires coming straight from my battery, one from the positive post and one from the ground... they run all the way across the firewall and come inside the cab near the steering shaft...
Here's where they come inside the cab (you'll want to use a rubber grommet so the insulation on the wires doesn't rub through and short against the truck... it's on my list of stuff to grab next time I'm out and about
)
Here's where I mounted my block and relay...
The relay will have numbers on it next to the posts...
30 is the main power to the relay so solder on the wire you ran that comes straight from the battery's + terminal...
85 is the ground for the relay so solder on the wire you ran that comes straight from the battery's - terminal...
86 is the trigger... this is what tells the relay to let power from the battery through to the distribution block or to cut it off... I ran a wire from the factory fuse pannel that gets switched on and off with the ignition. So when you put the key in it sends power to this spot on the factory fuse pannel that will now send power to the relay thus opening up the relay and letting power from the battery go to the distribution block...
It's the red wire towards the bottom...
87 is your output(s) (some relay's have two 87's) to the distribution block so solder the main power wire off the block to this terminal on the relay...
That's basically it. So if you do that when you put the key in it'll let power through straight from the battery to the distribution block. If you want you could always run a more complicated distribution block like dyeager and ryoken were talking about so you can set some to be constant and some to be switched but for my needs I don't need any that are constant.
Hopefully that helps get you started... ryoken and dyeager are more technical than I am with terms and such but hopefully you can understand what I did.
Some of those items (like the amp, stereo and lights) are using that switched 12v source to fire their own internal relay's that draw power through a heavier guage wire straight from the battery.
While others (such as the cb and the backlight on the tach) are using that switched 12v source as their only source for power... it just depend on what the accessory is and how much power it draws but they all need a switched 12v source...
So this is what I did although there are tons of ways you could accomplish the same thing.
I have two wires coming straight from my battery, one from the positive post and one from the ground... they run all the way across the firewall and come inside the cab near the steering shaft...
Here's where they come inside the cab (you'll want to use a rubber grommet so the insulation on the wires doesn't rub through and short against the truck... it's on my list of stuff to grab next time I'm out and about
)
Here's where I mounted my block and relay...
The relay will have numbers on it next to the posts...
30 is the main power to the relay so solder on the wire you ran that comes straight from the battery's + terminal...
85 is the ground for the relay so solder on the wire you ran that comes straight from the battery's - terminal...
86 is the trigger... this is what tells the relay to let power from the battery through to the distribution block or to cut it off... I ran a wire from the factory fuse pannel that gets switched on and off with the ignition. So when you put the key in it sends power to this spot on the factory fuse pannel that will now send power to the relay thus opening up the relay and letting power from the battery go to the distribution block...
It's the red wire towards the bottom...
87 is your output(s) (some relay's have two 87's) to the distribution block so solder the main power wire off the block to this terminal on the relay...
That's basically it. So if you do that when you put the key in it'll let power through straight from the battery to the distribution block. If you want you could always run a more complicated distribution block like dyeager and ryoken were talking about so you can set some to be constant and some to be switched but for my needs I don't need any that are constant.
Hopefully that helps get you started... ryoken and dyeager are more technical than I am with terms and such but hopefully you can understand what I did.
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
Ok....first, thanks, awesome, awesome, awesome!
dyeager or ryoken, can either of you shed some light as to how you would make, say, two of the six constant hot and the rest hot to the ignition? Again, my elec. skills are not that great...
Thanks again...
dyeager or ryoken, can either of you shed some light as to how you would make, say, two of the six constant hot and the rest hot to the ignition? Again, my elec. skills are not that great...
Thanks again...
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
I guess that I can start ordering my parts for this...
What size relay? 60amp? What gauge wiring is used from relay to fuse block? What size inline fuse from the battery to the relay?
Again, many thanks...
What size relay? 60amp? What gauge wiring is used from relay to fuse block? What size inline fuse from the battery to the relay?
Again, many thanks...
The main power wire that feeds the whole distribution block is piggy-backed from terminal to terminal once it goes inside the unit...
So you could just disconnect it from two of the terminals and hook up a constant hot (say straight from the battery) instead.
So your relay would fire the ones that are piggy backed together from that main power wire and the ones you disconnected would get their power straight from the battery bypassing the relay.
Although I'm sure you could just buy a box that's setup for that already.
Out of curiosity what do you have that needs constant power?
So you could just disconnect it from two of the terminals and hook up a constant hot (say straight from the battery) instead.
So your relay would fire the ones that are piggy backed together from that main power wire and the ones you disconnected would get their power straight from the battery bypassing the relay.
Although I'm sure you could just buy a box that's setup for that already.
Out of curiosity what do you have that needs constant power?
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
I am not too sure...BUT, I would hate to NOT have the option later...LOL!
There are certain things that require a constant hot for memory purposes...radios, cbs, onboard computers....now I am getting waaaaay ahead of my technical skills with that onboard computers thing there, but if I ever did anything that needed it, it would be nice to have it there...
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
Wouldnt you want that constant hot from the battery to go through a relay too though? I guess, that is where I am really confused...say I got one 4 fuse block for 4 const hot, and one 6 fuse block for 6 ign hots...would I want to run all the power on one feed to the one 60amp relay and then jump to either the 4 or 6 fuse block for either types of power, or would I want to run TWO relays, having one for each fuse block? Oh boy,......now I am really starting to confuse myself
!
There are certain things that require a constant hot for memory purposes...radios, cbs, onboard computers....now I am getting waaaaay ahead of my technical skills with that onboard computers thing there, but if I ever did anything that needed it, it would be nice to have it there...
head units generally grab the constant hot from the wiring harness but I guess you could run one all the way over to a distribution block...
cb's don't need a constant unless you want to be able to turn it on w/o a key...
The switched sources work with the key turned to the accessory spot so you don't necessarily have to have the truck running (for example if you wanted to use the cb you wouldn't have to start the truck, just put the key in and turn it to the accessory position).
This is nice so you don't accidentally leave stuff on (unless you leave the key in and walk away).
Wouldnt you want that constant hot from the battery to go through a relay too though? I guess, that is where I am really confused...say I got one 4 fuse block for 4 const hot, and one 6 fuse block for 6 ign hots...would I want to run all the power on one feed to the one 60amp relay and then jump to either the 4 or 6 fuse block for either types of power, or would I want to run TWO relays, having one for each fuse block? Oh boy,......now I am really starting to confuse myself
A relay is just like a big switch so running power through it doesn't do anything other than allow you to control whether it's on or off. So if you want a constant hot you just run a wire from the battery. The only reason you use a relay for switched sources is so you can control the power with the big switch (the relay).
Madspeed
1/2 ton status
Painless = P I A
If I were you Id look at Bussman, Painles builds GARBAGE and sells it to you for WAY to much I bought this http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30004
for about 35 bucks with seals and terminals (that are factory roll crimp)
Painless wanted over 100 bucks AND youl have to splice into thier pigtail wth butt (hack) connectors.
I als buy Delphi stuff http://delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/ee/eec/eecd/
Its CHEAP but you need to get creative to find it
I will find my sources and post
Im a wiring NAZI To bad you cant see pics of my dmax h1 project =(
If I were you Id look at Bussman, Painles builds GARBAGE and sells it to you for WAY to much I bought this http://www.painlessperformance.com/webcatalog/largeview.php?SearchField=30004
for about 35 bucks with seals and terminals (that are factory roll crimp)
Painless wanted over 100 bucks AND youl have to splice into thier pigtail wth butt (hack) connectors.
I als buy Delphi stuff http://delphi.com/manufacturers/auto/ee/eec/eecd/
Its CHEAP but you need to get creative to find it
I will find my sources and post
Im a wiring NAZI
To bad you cant see pics of my dmax h1 project =(
Host the pics on photobucket and post up!
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
Bussman? got a link? How about that Delphi? Are there any products for sale? Or is that just a dealer?
Thanks....
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
YEah....post up some pics! Oh, and do you have a site that you buy that bussman stuff from? Good looking stuff by cooper bussman!!!
Madspeed
1/2 ton status
4GsCaddy
Registered Member
WOW! Now that is some difficult stuff to hunt down...thanks for the head start though...
Here's a link to how I wired my accessories up: (CLICK HERE) I haven't taken any updated pics since I finished it up -
This is the switch panel (CLICK HERE) - The switches are always hot.
I have one 5 amp fused line running to the switches. The switches then run each relay. Each relay is also fused according to the load.
This is the switch panel (CLICK HERE) - The switches are always hot.
I have one 5 amp fused line running to the switches. The switches then run each relay. Each relay is also fused according to the load.
