CK5
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Do you add any zinc to the engine oil on a k5?

I kinda agree, I mean as old as these trucks are if it hasn’t lost one yet it probably won’t because who knows what the prior owners ran for oil…..however I guess I figure a little extra insurance doesn’t hurt
Depending on cost, sure. If you just bought it and it’s got a 40 year old engine in it, it is what it is.

If you’re building a new engine, choosing to save money, not buying a roller cam, then just to turn around and pay 2 to 3 times the cost of every oil change isn’t really accomplishing anything

That said, out of all the engines I’ve had an issue with only one of them I can verify I lost the cam. That was the engine that was in my blue truck, and I knew the guy that owned it before me and always ran Valvoline oil in it, the cam failed because crappy GM metallurgy of the 1970s. It also lost the two front cam bearings.

I’m not sure any amount of zinc would rectify with piss poor metallurgy and lifters that are being made these days, and it really is no profit margin on flat tappet cam’s anyway. All of those parts are outsourced by almost all of the Cam makers except for a few like Howard cams.
 
Interestingly, the company that built the engine I put in the C10 wanted high zinc oil dino oil used in it for the first 4000 miles even though it is a roller cam engine. I did it to avoid any potential warranty issues, but I did think it was an interesting requirement.
 
I’m suite they have some CYA policy in place. No receipts, no warranty. ATK warranties a lot of engines
 
The other important question not addressed here is the catalytic converter. If you have one (or more), you need to think about how much zinc is going through the engine. That's one of the reasons they changed the oil.

Also, consider how old your engine really is. If it's 40 years old, the break-in is complete! If it's a crate engine built after 1996, it would have been sold with the intention of running the lowered zinc oils. That's the only flat lifter engine I have - a late 90's Goodwrench. I've never used anything but regular jug oil in it and 120,000 miles (or so) later, all is well.
 
My dad's 78 k20, sbc 400 burb lost 2 cams, in the mid 80s. While working for LAFD, all our mid 80's g van ambulances would lose the cam at @ 70k miles. Goodwrench engines or not we changed a lot of engines.
my first 66 Chevelle has 283, passed CA smog in 93. Then I pulled the power pack heads for some 350 heads, checked a few lifters several were very concave.
Pulled the cam, at least 4 lobes were worn, not gone but going.
I really was amazed it pass the smog test.
 
Failure is normally on Break in. Once you get
past that it’s debatable. I’m going for the cheap insurance and add it.
 
My dad's 78 k20, sbc 400 burb lost 2 cams, in the mid 80s. While working for LAFD, all our mid 80's g van ambulances would lose the cam at @ 70k miles. Goodwrench engines or not we changed a lot of engines.
my first 66 Chevelle has 283, passed CA smog in 93. Then I pulled the power pack heads for some 350 heads, checked a few lifters several were very concave.
Pulled the cam, at least 4 lobes were worn, not gone but going.
I really was amazed it pass the smog test.

That was the prime era for "soft" cams right from GM. Seems most prevalent from about '73 to mid 80's...and I am guessing most of the later failures were from cams heat treated and ground in the 70's. I got to do my first cam swap on my Dad's '76 Chevy crew cab when it had about 65K miles on it.

The ironic thing is you'd see cam and lifter failures back then pretty regularly, and oil had a ton of zinc in it. I think the oil back then was shit in comparison to today's blends, as well as everything was carb'd so oil got contaminated with fuel way more than modern FI stuff does. abra cadabra flat cam and mushroomed lifters!

I think if you have an engine with a flat tappet cam in it right now, regular oil is fine. I think what is more important is not extending the intervals between changes. Change it often, use a quaity filter and let er buck. If you're doing a cam swap and chose a flat tappet cam...good luck. In that scenario all the high zoot zinc addtives and snake oils aren't going to help anyways. I think people want some "easy" smoking gun to point at when flat tappet cams and lifters fail, but those failures are not oil related, or zinc additive related. Straight up bad machining, and or bad heat treat.
 
Failure is normally on Break in. Once you get
past that it’s debatable. I’m going for the cheap insurance and add it.
I'm sticking with zinc. Mine are both past break in especially the 350 in my C10. My Blazer is a different story 350 miles on a flat tappet. I'm staying with zinc in both, I don't have catalytic converters so zinc for me.
 
I’ve lost a cam lobe on two different small block builds a few years apart both with comp cams full k- kits. Both broken in religiously. One failed within weeks, the other made it about a year or two if I remember right. Needless to say I don’t use flat tappet anymore or comp cams haha.
 
I’ve lost a cam lobe on two different small block builds a few years apart both with comp cams full k- kits. Both broken in religiously. One failed within weeks, the other made it about a year or two if I remember right. Needless to say I don’t use flat tappet anymore or comp cams haha.
Well seemingly since EPC and CMC make most of the cam cores that you can buy, what ever cams you are buying now are probably same core as comp used.....which was epc.
I personally don't subscribe to the cam grinder being at fault. It's the oil. Not the cam core.
 
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Last Comp cam I use did the same full kit for Comp, broke in correctly with Isky cam lube during assembly. So dis appointed Still have that engine I nee to do something with it. tear down clean up and retro a roller most likely. stopped using it as soon as we suspected the flattening cam
 
Well seemingly since EPC and CMC make most of the cam cores that you can buy, what ever cams you are buying now are the same core as comp used.....which was epc.
I personally don't subscribe to the cam grinder being at fault. It's the oil. Not the cam core.
Yeah I’m not sure. The last two cams I’ve used were from Howards.
I’ve heard ring and pinion sets are mostly made by two or three places and rebranded by the sellers. But supposedly they have their own ways of grinding and hardening. I dont know… I just work here haha.
 
The cam failure epidemic started around the same time that the epa quietly mandated the zinc in oil be reduced.

But yet everyone blamed the cam grinders. Not even the cam core manufacturers.

I not an expert, but I know 2+2=5 and the zinc reduction and the cam failure issues were the same time frame....
 
The cam failure epidemic started around the same time that the epa quietly mandated the zinc in oil be reduced.

But yet everyone blamed the cam grinders. Not even the cam core manufacturers.

I not an expert, but I know 2+2=5 and the zinc reduction and the cam failure issues were the same time frame....
And adding to that, the two cams I lost were on regular valvoline. Nowadays I run the Amsoil high zinc stuff. Do you remember around what decade that was beags? The 90’s probably?
 
The cam failure epidemic started around the same time that the epa quietly mandated the zinc in oil be reduced.

But yet everyone blamed the cam grinders. Not even the cam core manufacturers.

I not an expert, but I know 2+2=5 and the zinc reduction and the cam failure issues were the same time frame....
I agree, seems odd that they coincide
 
Run zinc with flat tappets. It's not going to hurt anything doing so unless you have a catalytic convertor but as I said it may if you dont, why risk it when you can just get zinc oil?
 
"..
The Zinc motor oil story has almost become the stuff of legends. I have seen more people haggle over this issue (heatedly) on automotive forums than any other. It has been very well demonstrated that Zinc provides wear surface protection benefits at break-in. What folks seem to have forgotten is that extensive testing has been done on Zinc additives to motor oil, from the 1930's thru the 70's. People also seem to forget that Zinc is a phosphorous substance. It's right in the name, after all: ZDDP (Zinc Dialkyl Dithiophosphate)

Phosphates such as Zinc do indeed provide additional lubrication benefits in very small amounts. Phosphates, however, will actually increase engine wear significantly when added in larger amounts (concentrations above 1500 ppm.) Engine rebuilders recommend a concentration of 1200 ppm for break-in only. This is why I cringe when I read how posters on automotive forums enthusiastically discuss how they use Zinc oils like Rotella, and then add "a bottle or two" of Zinc additive to their engines...even long after break-in.

The principal benefit from Zinc is that it leaves lubricating film on wear surfaces. Consequently, startup will be the primary protection zone that Zinc comes into play. The oil itself takes over after that. Some motor oil companies may have done away with Zinc in their oil, but no one seems to understand that in those oils, Zinc has been done away with in favor of other lubricant enhancers, like Molybedenum and Boron...which don't actually cause the damage that phosphates like Zinc do. Molybedenum and Boron also leave a film on wear surfaces after shutoff.

Its fine to add Zinc to your oil after break-in if you feel the need. But understand that it's not a "more Zinc is always better" proposition, as many seem to think these days. Using Zinc in concentrations above 1500 ppm for extended periods will cause problems like pitting on wear surfaces and camshaft spalling. That's not conjecture. It's physics.
OCT 23, 2018"





 
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