that happened to me. even maxing it out with a fork lift and getting the shaft remade, once I got it out on a trail and throttling up a hill under power, the wrap plus flexing out a little bit was enough to get the shaft to separate. which blew.
CK5
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Do you worry about _full_ droop?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
that happened to me. even maxing it out with a fork lift and getting the shaft remade, once I got it out on a trail and throttling up a hill under power, the wrap plus flexing out a little bit was enough to get the shaft to separate. which blew.
I put an old wheel on and welded a hook to it. Some put a strap around a wheel. I usually put 3 lug nuts on. Also make sure your hoist is at its highest setting.
I've been cursed for suggesting this but the dummy's put their hoist at the lightest weight setting. Both collapsed a leg on their hoist.
This is the reason I welded a hook on my spare wheel no worries about it coming off. Also remember its opposite corner. Lift the passenger rear should get you full droop on the driver's front and enough compression on the passenger front to measure for bumpstops.
"Anyone have pics of limit straps on a leaf sprung vehicle? I'm having a hard time identifying good mounting spots that don't interfere with other stuff. "
From your pictures you should be able to go from the frame to the top of a U-Bolt. When I lifted my truck I had to remove the front drive shaft due to it hitting. I eventually had the crossover modified to go over the drive shaft, since I only had cast iron manifolds. When I do get headers for this truck, thay are going to be mid-lengths because all of the long tube headers I have ever had on a 4X4 truck hit the front spring rear spring shackls.
From your pictures you should be able to go from the frame to the top of a U-Bolt. When I lifted my truck I had to remove the front drive shaft due to it hitting. I eventually had the crossover modified to go over the drive shaft, since I only had cast iron manifolds. When I do get headers for this truck, thay are going to be mid-lengths because all of the long tube headers I have ever had on a 4X4 truck hit the front spring rear spring shackls.
Do you mean a u-bolt, or the u-bolt plate? If you mean the u-bolt, how would that go? Also not sure if I should weld a tab to the frame, or just bolt the strap to the side of it. I really need to go after the rear first, since it's easy to extend those shocks all the way. You can tell by the way everyone's upper shock mounts are trashed.
don't forget ord's new item . . . http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/RearShockBrace.htm
You could go to the U-bolt plate if you welded a tab onto it, or to the top of a U-Bolt that is protruding out from the top of the U-bolt plate. this suggestion is for the front suspension only. The rear suspension has a number of places to mount a limiting strap. You are correct about the rear shocks. I rarely see an rear upper shock mount that is not bent, at least a little.
Give me some ideas for the rear suspension. My best idea so far is to weld a tab on the axle tube and then connect to the side of the frame near the shock. Could also weld a tab on the bottom of the frame if that's better. I'm not the best welder, so the less I need to do the better.
I don't have limit strap, so take my ideas with a grain of alt, but why not run them parallel to your shocks?
Martin
Martin
That's the obvious approach, but the devil's in the details. You'd need to come up with some way to offset the strap mount from the shock, otherwise it will interfere when under tension. A simple extension or spacer to use the same bolt might put a lot of leverage on the mounting points.
I ran limit straps bolted to the shock bolts for Blazer Bash this year. I swapped out 15" travel shocks for 14" and didn't have enough shock travel for full droop.
I put longer bolts in at both ends of the shocks and used spacers to get them out from the shock a little. This put the straps in a single shear capture but my justification was that I only needed them for slow rock crawling articulation. I felt this would limit the stress on the straps.
Only problem I had was the straps got tore up on the edges of the holes I have in the inner fenders for the shocks (and straps) to pass thru. After Blazer Bash I made the shock tabs on the axle taller so I no longer need the straps.
6 or 7 years ago I built an RTI ramp for the purpose of testing suspension articulation and making sure everything clears. It has payed off a bunch and it's been fun to take to various events. I think a lot of stuff gets broken due to people not accounting for full droop, and often full compression as well.
I put longer bolts in at both ends of the shocks and used spacers to get them out from the shock a little. This put the straps in a single shear capture but my justification was that I only needed them for slow rock crawling articulation. I felt this would limit the stress on the straps.
Only problem I had was the straps got tore up on the edges of the holes I have in the inner fenders for the shocks (and straps) to pass thru. After Blazer Bash I made the shock tabs on the axle taller so I no longer need the straps.
6 or 7 years ago I built an RTI ramp for the purpose of testing suspension articulation and making sure everything clears. It has payed off a bunch and it's been fun to take to various events. I think a lot of stuff gets broken due to people not accounting for full droop, and often full compression as well.
I'm thinking about this type of setup on top. Not sure what to connect to on the axle side, maybe a seatbelt style tab on the U-bolt plate, or maybe just to the shock mount using a spacer like you said.
Max compression is tougher to check. Do you think an RTI will compress as much as coming down hard with the weight of the vehicle?
Max compression is tougher to check. Do you think an RTI will compress as much as coming down hard with the weight of the vehicle?
It will compress as far as I allow it with bump stops. 
I think it would compress more on the ramp because coming down normally both shocks and springs are absorbing the impact. Plus the quicker, sudden motion will be dampened more by the shocks than a slow compression. Assuming we're not talking about some sort of extreme 20ft nose dive or something.
I think it would compress more on the ramp because coming down normally both shocks and springs are absorbing the impact. Plus the quicker, sudden motion will be dampened more by the shocks than a slow compression. Assuming we're not talking about some sort of extreme 20ft nose dive or something.
I also used to run a limit strap on the rear axle of my K5. It was in the center to keep the rear u-joints from binding.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
I just maxed my springs out until they were flat, set my bumps there, then measured it at max droop and bought a shock that had more travel than that. And viola, the leaves themselves became the limit straps.
It's tough to make room for as much shock as you need, especially in back. I can't fit more than a 14" travel shock in front, which I may or may not be able to max out. A 12" shock in the rear will max out for sure. Only way out I've seen is to cut into the bed or do an inboard kit.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
I was planning on making them just slightly inboarded, and slightly leaning, to get the maximum length shock with the most minimal amount of negatives I can achieve. Maybe pick up 2-4in of length depending on how you do it.
Would it make any sense to weld one of these to the top of the U-bolt plate? Maybe long way of the tab going front/rear of vehicle. 1-ton suggested connecting to a U-bolt... would that be like connecting the strap directly to it through the strap eye? If so, is it really legit to have the metal end of the strap at a right angle to the pull?
My preference would be for the metal tab of the strap to be straight up, but maybe it would be okay. You could always try it and keep an eye on it see if it starts to bend.
I mounted 15" shocks in the rear of my crew cab by angling them forward. Copied the idea from ORD's suburban. I have 6" lift and I think I could nearly fit 12" shocks vertical if the axle tabs are flush with the bottom of the axle tube.
You could always do a trick cantilever setup under the bed.
I mounted 15" shocks in the rear of my crew cab by angling them forward. Copied the idea from ORD's suburban. I have 6" lift and I think I could nearly fit 12" shocks vertical if the axle tabs are flush with the bottom of the axle tube.
You could always do a trick cantilever setup under the bed.
I jacked up the rear frame with my hoist, and was surprised to find that the first thing to hit was the shackle against the hanger. I know I may be the last person on earth without a shackle flip, but has anyone heard of this? I'm contemplating whether I should grind away some material from the hanger.
