Nope every decently flexy non shackle flipped Chevy ( and Dodge and some Fords) do that
CK5
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Do you worry about _full_ droop?
- Thread starter Mastiff
- Start date
How about the grinding option? Though it does make it so I need no limit strap...
Yah grind away man. Grinding is always an option. Although occasionally the grinding option makes the welding option not so much of an option.
I like to remove as many limiting factors as possible and then limit if you have too. Limit straps are the best solution
I would limit the travel with straps on all 4 corners.. If that shackle hits at a high rate of speed you could have a broken bolt.. Most of the reason you don't see limit straps is because most rigs won't even use the full range of the shackle like yours and mine do. Another reason is most people don't realize when the leafs separate at droop they're very easy to bend, limiting them reduces the chance of ripped apart shocks and broken springs.. It's the correct way to stop the droop travel. Mount the straps in the direction the wheel is traveling, or close as you can get it, ex: the rear travels down and forward as the shackle drops out so you would attach the stamp like you said on the spring plate and the top should go rearward some.
For most non-high speed use the leaves make a pretty good droop stop as long as everything else is OK at that point. Any component that mounts OUTSIDE the spring (shocks and brakelines on the front) will need to be checked in articulation since they'll travel farther than the spring along the slope of the axle. Any component INSIDE the spring (like the driveshaft) will travel less than the spring so full droop is as bad as it can get. The advice about having a couple inches of slip and a couple inches of downward travel available in the driveshaft at full droop is good. On really steep climbs it's very possible to get enough traction to pull the pinion down when the springs are drooped out.
If you need to run a limit strap just bolt it to a tab welded on the axle housing and you can bolt it through the side of the frame with a short spacer/washer to stand it away from the frame a little. Keep in mind the component you're protecting and where it mounts on the axle for articulation too. If you're trying to protect a front shock that's too short you don't want to mount the limit strap at the frame and leave the shock farther outboard. Realistically this isn't that bad since slow speed stretching isn't that bad for the shock but the idea is the same.
Bumpstops follow a similar technique. Remember where you mount them in-and-out. Think about if you put one bump in the middle of the truck: It would limit total travel but wouldn't protect your springs, shocks or anything else. If you mount the bump right at the knuckle, it'll protect everything inside it but your articulation or one wheel bump travel will be pretty severely restricted.
For bumpstop height on our springs, anything in the factory mounts up from should be stopped at 5-5.5" of bump travel from ride height. If you measure from full droop that'll be about 10.5".
If you need to run a limit strap just bolt it to a tab welded on the axle housing and you can bolt it through the side of the frame with a short spacer/washer to stand it away from the frame a little. Keep in mind the component you're protecting and where it mounts on the axle for articulation too. If you're trying to protect a front shock that's too short you don't want to mount the limit strap at the frame and leave the shock farther outboard. Realistically this isn't that bad since slow speed stretching isn't that bad for the shock but the idea is the same.
Bumpstops follow a similar technique. Remember where you mount them in-and-out. Think about if you put one bump in the middle of the truck: It would limit total travel but wouldn't protect your springs, shocks or anything else. If you mount the bump right at the knuckle, it'll protect everything inside it but your articulation or one wheel bump travel will be pretty severely restricted.
For bumpstop height on our springs, anything in the factory mounts up from should be stopped at 5-5.5" of bump travel from ride height. If you measure from full droop that'll be about 10.5".
A little grinding and the shackle interference is no longer an issue. Surprisingly, the rear 12" shocks are not bottoming out either. The driver's side (back pointing) one is very close, like using 11.5" of travel. I guess the springs just went as far as they want because everything is clear when it stops (shackle, brake lines, shocks). I guess I'm not going to worry about limit straps for now.
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Drooped out:
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Drooped out:
