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Doing 52's up front with Bilsteins, 255/70 a good valving? Also, Furd shock tower mounting ?'s too.

handloader90 said:
Well I just ordered x4 of the 14" travel 5125's through Summit @ $83.99 each.

Got x2 sets of Energy 2.5" wide x 4.5" tall poly bumps too.
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14" would not work on my burb rear with 6" lift. They would have had almost no uptravel . 12 in had 4ish of uptravel. Not sure how the rears differ in shock mounting.

Curious as to what the difference is with the ORD ones.

From their site: ORD-F3 Shocks are a special 5100 series Bilstein that we've selected because the valving works excellent on full size Chevy trucks. We use them on the front wherever they fit, we modify them in house to fit '73-'87 ('91) Chevy trucks.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
14" would not work on my burb rear with 6" lift. They would have had almost no uptravel . 12 in had 4ish of uptravel. Not sure how the rears differ in shock mounting.

Curious as to what the difference is with the ORD ones.

From their site: ORD-F3 Shocks are a special 5100 series Bilstein that we've selected because the valving works excellent on full size Chevy trucks. We use them on the front wherever they fit, we modify them in house to fit '73-'87 ('91) Chevy trucks.
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From what I understand the 5125 is a "Universal" shock and the 5100 has specific valvings based on application. I could be totally wrong though.

If I can't get what I need out of the 14" shocks in the rear then I'll just have Summit send me some shorter ones while these are enroute back to them.

I'll find out soon if they'll work.

Planning on starting this thing next week when I "go on vacation". Planning on having the truck completely done minus a fancy front driveshaft with 3-4 days. Long days and lots of beers lol.

I'll post up the results in here. Probably wont be any crazy flex shots since my driveshaft will probably fall apart on me if I tried.
 
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handloader90 said:
From what I understand the 5125 is a "Universal" shock and the 5100 has specific carvings based on application. I could be totally wrong though.

If I can't get what I need out of the 14" shocks I'm the rear then I'll just have Summit send me some shorter ones while these are enroute back to them.

I'll find out soon if they'll work.

Planning on starting this thing next week when I "go on vacation". Planiing on having the truck completely done minus a fancy front driveshaft with 3-4 days. Long days and lots of beers lol.

I'll post up the results in here. Probably wont be any crazy flex shots since my driveshaft will probably fall apart on me if I tried.
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From the looks of the truck, you may run into other things...better plan for a few more days lol
 
It'd be kinda nice if those 14's did workout though, having a spare shock or two laying around would work on the front or rear if some stuff got thrashed.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
From the looks of the truck, you may run into other things...better plan for a few more days lol
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Surprisingly the frame is extremely clean. Body... not so much.

I plan on some of the bolts being toast, the core support bushing bolts being one area, those fawkers are always in bad shape.

I just wanna make sure I go into it with 99.99% of the parts so the truck is only down for a few days. I know there will probably be a few runs to the parts store and fastener store along the way.
 
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handloader90 said:
Surprisingly the frame is extremely clean. Body... not so much.

I plan on some of the bolts being toast, the core support bushing bolts being one area, those fawkers are always in bad shape.

I just wanna make sure I go into it with 99.99% of the parts so the truck is only down for a few days. I k ow there will probably be a few runs to the parts store and fastener store along the way.
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Sounds like you got everything planned out. Wish I was that smart with my truck.
 
MetalMulishaMarcus said:
Sounds like you got everything planned out. Wish I was that smart with my truck.
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I think this is my 8th or 9th square and I've made a lot of f**k ups that left me with 6 month projects that went dead and got parted out. Learned a lot and learned what my limits are... told myself I'd never do anything to a vehicle again unless everything to do it is all there from the beginning.

I've been daily'ing this thing for the past week and would like to continue to do so!
 
handloader90 said:
Ya'll getting these long slip shafts made local or ordering from a place like High Angle Driveline?
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Mine was originally a Tom Woods shaft. I had HAD rebuild the double cardan and add a 1410 at the pinion years later.
 
handloader90 said:
Ya'll getting these long slip shafts made local or ordering from a place like High Angle Driveline?
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I searched for local places and nobody is interested in putting high travel spline on the street. I was just asking them to replace the worn spline that was already on the shaft and nobody even knew where to get the parts. I also tried ordering the parts from a few places that sell long-slip shafts and none of them would sell them. Pretty detailed discussion of the options, pros/cons, etc. in here: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-much-front-driveshaft-slip.324435/
 
Blue85 said:
I searched for local places and nobody is interested in putting high travel spline on the street. I was just asking them to replace the worn spline that was already on the shaft and nobody even knew where to get the parts. I also tried ordering the parts from a few places that sell long-slip shafts and none of them would sell them. Pretty detailed discussion of the options, pros/cons, etc. in here: https://ck5.com/forums/threads/how-much-front-driveshaft-slip.324435/
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Very informative thread. Thanks for linking it here.

I may go the square driveshaft route to save some coin for the time being until I can figure out exactly what route to go.

I definitely don't have $1k + for a 1410 driveshaft from HAD.
 
Square shafts tend to break drivetrains in big trucks. Be wary. It's hard to plunge a "4 spline" shaft when it has torque on it. Big trucks with big engines and big tires make them bind up and then when you compress a suspension that moves the shaft half a mile it pushed the back of your transmission off. Yotas get away with it because they're lighter and have 1/4 scale engines.
 
Stephen said:
Square shafts tend to break drivetrains in big trucks. Be wary. It's hard to plunge a "4 spline" shaft when it has torque on it. Big trucks with big engines and big tires make them bind up and then when you compress a suspension that moves the shaft half a mile it pushed the back of your transmission off. Yotas get away with it because they're lighter and have 1/4 scale engines.
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Never knew that.

I know cheap isn't always best bu that is a temporary option I'm looking at.
 
More so look at a square shaft for the upcoming winter. Probably wont have enough cans for a fancy one for a little while.

As long as I can get around in the snow I'll be happy, even of there are some vibes up front.
 
For what it's worth I am a big fat trail plug with a big block and lots of travel on my square front shaft. Works well for me with lots of miles on it. One of my longest lasting parts.
 
obijuank5 said:
For what it's worth I am a big fat trail plug with a big block and lots of travel on my square front shaft. Works well for me with lots of miles on it. One of my longest lasting parts.
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Glad to hear! I'm planning on making one soon and if it does well I'll probably keep it.

I have a few spare driveshafts sitting in the garage to play around with.

What side square tune did you use for the t-case side and the axle side?

Wall thickness?

Anything special that you did or any tips?
 
14" inch shocks in the rear are a no-go for my application.

4" shackle flip
6" shackle
Stock 52's
Stock shock mounting location frame side and on the axle.

I would have have 4" of up travel before the shock body bottomed out onto the shock eyelet.

Gonna call tomorrow and have shorter ones sent out. Don't know if I wanna go 11" or 12".

Open to suggestions if anyone has any.
 
Yeah, 14" is pretty long for only 4" lift. Some guys inboard for longer travel but technically that would get a higher damping rate. You can cut the floor, but exchanging them is the most straightforward thing to do.
 
I feel like I said this ^^ before in this thread...oh wait...

Kay86K5 said:
On my K5, I have 14" travel in the front, and on the rear I just have 12" travel (56's rear, stock upper shock location, and just welded tabs on the axle where I wanted for the lower shock placement).
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Kay86K5 said:
Yes, that 14" shock will work just fine up front.

And yes, my 12" in the rear works just fine. I like to keep it simple sometimes, and I really don't see much advantage to moving the mounting of the upper rear shock at all. I know most like to "inboard" them, but most get crazy and inboard the shocks so much that they really aren't dampening anything anymore.

If you think about it, unless you inboard the rear leaf springs, the front will always flex a bit more than the rear as the spring width on the front of our trucks is narrower than the spring width of the rear springs. Therefore, since the front flexes more, you need a longer travel shock to accommodate. With that being said, I've never bottomed out or over extended my rear 12" shocks...and I've also rarely ever said, "I need more flex in the rear" either. to each their own though
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I did :haha:...sorry, couldn't help myself
 
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