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Door Disconects

1

1978Blazerk5

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Well Craig is Gonna Hate me:D

I Am looking into a rust free door for my 78', what i have now is cheap japanesse crap, i shut the door and it dents. well i tracked down a rust free door my buddy who owns a body shop owes me a favor and said he would paint it for me. Now I figure while i got everything apart i would do the thing were you can take off the doors.

what are the disatvanges to this? This for my DD by the way
 
1978Blazerk5 said:
Well Craig is Gonna Hate me:D

I Am looking into a rust free door for my 78', what i have now is cheap japanesse crap, i shut the door and it dents. well i tracked down a rust free door my buddy who owns a body shop owes me a favor and said he would paint it for me. Now I figure while i got everything apart i would do the thing were you can take off the doors.

what are the disatvanges to this? This for my DD by the way
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driving with no roof or doors is one of the reasons blazers are the best 4x4 out there, that and common parts. the writeup on this board is very good, follow it to the t and it will work out well.

make sure to buy the pins the writeup pictures, i didnt and had to buy another set.

its totally worth it, DD it in the summer will be Fing amazing

rick
 
Here is my super Clean rig

PA210002.jpg

P4100004.jpg
 
yea imagine driving it around w/ no roof or doors, how much cooler would it look then?the only concern is that the doors are heavy and awkward, dont bang them up while moving them

you can keep the wiring job clean on the doors if you have electric locks/windows by using wiring harness deals, or you can sorta butcher it and use male/female adapters like i did
 
then its clean and nothing but a good time after an hour or so of work.... i miss all manual in my 76, i always have problems w. door electrical stuff,

people will stare alot when your doing 70 mph w/ no roof or doors and you put your left foot on the fender hahah (especially if you find a nice pair of hot pink 80's running shorts that you wear when you drive)
 
bucksntrucks969 said:
people will stare alot when your doing 70 mph w/ no roof or doors and you put your left foot on the fender hahah (especially if you find a nice pair of hot pink 80's running shorts that you wear when you drive)
Click to expand...

HAHA for some reson that make me think about the show "Reno 911' lol
 
Everyone looks when I drive with my foot in the half door. Especially when driving wearing a suit. truck is all smashed up but runs like a top. To me it ins not how it looks but that I can park on top of you.
 
see if you can get a set of tube doors painted to match, that would be really sweet i think
 
Drey said:
see if you can get a set of tube doors painted to match, that would be really sweet i think
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that would look pretty Kick ass

Like I said Craig is gonna hate me big time :D

I might this spring fab up some tube doors
 
I always roll my windows down before I transport. I makes them much easier to carry around. I store mine in the shed, propped up against a wall. Nothing fancy.

For those of you with power options, I used trailer wiring connecters on my doors. 2 4pins on the passenger side and 1 4pin and 1 5pin on the driver side. Alternate the ends on the passenger side so you can't mix up the connections. They tuck into the hole real nice when the doors are off.
 
i'm breaking the law when i go doorless, since i don't stick a mirror on the driver's side. only got griped at for it once, though.

the job is very easy if you have a dremel, a small hammer, a chisel, and some muscles. i did mine before i saw the writeup, so it's not exactly the same.

1. use chisel and hammer to break off the little "wings" that hold the stock hinge pins in place (bottom of pin).

2. grind/cut enough of the metal away on the bottom of the pin to tap it out of the hinge with the hammer. i ground the splines off the head, too.

3. drill holes in the pin so that you can use a cotter pin to hold them in place when everything is assembled.

4. reinstall pins. bottom pin goes in normally. top pin goes in upside down for ease of removal. insert cotter pins once hinge pins are in place.

took me about 30 minutes for the driver's side, but the passenger side only took about 10. i refined my process.

i usually keep my doors on, and forget that i even did the mod. no problems at all, offroad or onroad.
 
now you got me thinking..and i am going to make some ****ty tube doors with my low welding ability this winter sinc ei have access to a welder (mine) a notcher and tubing and a cutter (best friends with a guy whose dad owns a fencing company) and ill make a little hole to throw on some ****ty side views or w.e. i think of at the moment.
 
I've been wanting to do this on my Jimmy for awhile now but I was afraid to do it because I didn't want to hack up all those old electrical connections.

Also, I was concerned that the doors would be misaligned and hard to get them to shut right, or possibly make lots of noise and rattles while driving. Anybody have any problems with this?
 
just don't get them out of alignment in the first place. the hinges to not need to be unbolted. leaving them attached to the vehicle and door maintain alignment. severely worn pins or broken or missing bushings can let the door sag, but they are cheap and easy to replace.

no door rattles for me.
 
taking the hinges off is easier in my opinion, just make corresponding sharpie marks on the top and bottom of each hinge

tadaa
 
can you somehow figger up a quick disconnect mirror? like that would go in the top hinge or somethin? that would be cool.
 
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